I am going to hook my glow plugs up to an on and off switch and bypass the stock relay in my 1980 300TD. Does anyone have a diagram for the wires that lead into the car? Another question is does my car have 5 or 7 glow plugs? I have the 5 smaller pencil style plugs and looks like to larger ones in between the 1-2 and 2-3 glow plugs. Thanks.

you have 5 glow plugs. Why would you want to bypass your relay?
The larger items you speak of are two Sensors and not glow plugs. One is water temperature.

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Do you have the series or parallel plugs? Series plugs have what look like "bed springs" between the plugs. Parallel plugs have an individual wire to each plug.

You have a 300 that is a 5 cylinder so 5 plugs.

If you have series plugs do the upgrade to parallel, there is a retrofit available or rob the system from a later 300 at a p-n-p. Search the board for posts on this.

If you have parallel replace the relay, they are available new ($$) or try the p-n-p route.

If you choose to roll your own controller, be prepared to switch and more importantly be able to safely interrupt close to 100 amps of dc with your switching arrangement. A simple toggle switch will not do this. One method involves using the start relay like that used on old Ford cars. Be sure to provide proper over current protection and some means to ensure the plugs are not continuously energized. Also you will want some means of supervision to see if you have a failed plug (parallel system). The factory relay takes care of all this and more, why re-invent the wheel?

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2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

If you just go direct from the Battery to a Switch To the Glow Plugs you are going to need a Switch that can pull the highe amperage of the Glow Plugs.
If you use a Ford Type Starter Solenoid/Relay you will not need the High Amperage Switch because the high amperages will be taken care of by the Solenoid itself; the same as your Glow Plug Relay does.
Either Way you might want to add Fues in the system.

Glow Plug Wire colors on the square Connector and where they go.
Here is a pin out description:

1)rd/bk (Black) ignition switch (when you turn the Key to preglow this one should get the Juice.)
If you were to wire this to a Ford type Starter Solenoid is actually a Relay when you turn the Key to the preglow position it will activate the Solenoid.

2)vi (Violet/Purple) On turbo models goes to a Wire Terminal/Junction block and mates with a White Wire coming up from the Starter Solenoid. When you Crank the Starter + Voltages goes through the White Wire to the Violet one and turns the Glow Plug Relay On.

3)blu/wt (Blue with white strip)glow indicator Light

4)br (Brown)ground

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

This is what you need.

Homemade: Loop to pencil style glow plug conversion
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/309647-homemade-loop-pencil-style-glow-plug-conversion.html


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i have the pencil style already. I need to heat the oil in my engine up more (converted to wvo) so this is the easiest most logical way.

I'm not following something there. Why would a manual glow plug controller heat up the oil in the engine?

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

"I am going to hook my glow plugs up to an on and off switch and bypass the stock relay in my 1980 300TD."

I think the OP already has the Pencile type Glow Plugs. He evidently has an issue with his Glow Plug Relay or for some personal reason does not want to use the Stock Relay.

Apparently his stock Glow Plug Realy is hooked to a Temperature Sensor on the Cylinder Head.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Considering that the glow plugs are in the head and the oil is in the pan, perhaps you could take the time to pinpoint the logic in that plan.

I switched my car to WVO from diesel. I need to heat the WVO in the engine to a warmer temperature than the glow plugs allow for diesel. This isn't for the motor oil. It's to warm the WVO that is in the engine already. That's in addition to the heater I already installed inline for the WVO. Why not allow the plugs to cycle for longer since the WVO needs to be over 150* to combust properly.

How does running the glow plugs longer heat the WVO? I don't see the connection between the two.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Doesn't the fuel sit where where the glow plugs are? isn't the purpose of the glow plugs to heat the diesel slightly? I want them to stay on longer so that the wvo (fuel) in the engine where the glow plugs are is as hot as possible so the car starts easier instead of cranking it for several seconds.

No, the glow plugs aren't where the fuel sits. The glow plugs are inside the combustion chamber and provide a hot spot to ignite the fuel before the cylinders are warm. Running the glow plugs longer increases the temperatures inside the combustion chamber but has no effect on the temperature of the fuel oil.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

If you want/need more heat to the WVO prior to combustion you need to purchase 12v heating wraps for the steel injector lines. They are available on eBay or from WVO suppliers and are not expensive. You can only put a certain amount of heat into the WVO before the injection pump without compromising the seals in the pump. The last blast of heat has to come after the pump and before the WVO hits the injectors.

You should move your inquiries related to WVO to the Alternate Fuels subforum (look at the top of the main Diesel Discussion page) and outline your exact problem to the folks there. The main forum here has many members who are hostile to WVO use, so you can shortly expect to get some snappy replies to any related inquiry.

By the way, if you mean by "switched my car to WVO from diesel" that you are trying to run a single-tank setup in NJ, then you really need to do more research. Fast. I suggest you start here: http://voconversionbasics.websitetoolbox.com/?forum=54654

and http://voconversionbasics.websitetoolbox.com/post/Why-engines-die-young-when-converted-to-VO-fuel-5501931

__________________


Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

You need more information.

I suggest you study this
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/general-information/293076-basic-diesel-data-understand-what-they-talking-about.html

It will help your understanding.





http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/137732-glow-plugs-link-thread.html#post1019018

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