.

No, you don't :D:D:D:D:D


.

Here`s Army blindedly leading his troops :computer: into the unknown, slaying Dragons and Demons :overlord: that lurkith with in his Puddle Jumper:scooter: , writting yet another chapter in his book :book2: of knowledge, and his constant pursuit of daily DIY :wallbash: to be conqured.

Thanks Professor :toff: great job. :thumbup1:

Charlie

Good job.

Damage! Damage! Damage!
 

Thanks for the kind words folks.

I didn't get much of a chance to do anything today. I just took some pictures of the damage.

I've got a feeling this transmission will be a rubber necker's paradise.

First off here's the worn to the metal B1 brake band

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1345390520

I reckon they should have kept on driving it to see if it would eventually polish to a mirror finish.

Here's probably why the output shaft felt a bit rough

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1345390623

Really nasty pitted surface on the bit where the park pawl fits (I'll have to RTFM and find out what it is actually called!)

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1345390691

Rusty governor

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1345390790

It also has some spectacularly sharp edges on the drive cog. As does the cog that goes on the output shaft.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1345390849

Look closely in the picture above - the middle part of the teeth are sharpened (by wear) - they are thinner than the outer edges.



I think I might have to ask the moderators to rename this thread to "what can possibly go wrong with a 722.3!"

Look out for long thin springs
 

I've found lots of this type of debris in the back part of the transmission.

At the moment my guess is that these long thin springs were at one time in the governor.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1345391220

Thanks so much for the photos! I have a question for you:

I want to do the checks described here: http://www.europeantransmissions.com/Bulletin/DTC.merc/97-20.pdf

It looks like that's the side of the valve body facing the filter. Does the valve body need to come off to do those checks?

Thanks,

-J

Hi Army,

As you showed an excellent picture of the bowden system, is there any chance that the cable can be wrongly connected in a way that it can have limited movement, My car has a 722.4xx trans - and I am facing a short shift problem, I cannot correct the timing of full accelerator upshifts because the main accelerator cable runs out of adjustment If I try to adjust the bowden.

Well never say never! But it sounds unlikely. If you remove the filter you can see the bit that the Bowden cable actuates on the valve body. I've added a square to the picture below showing where you need to look.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1345402191

If you get someone to operate the Bowden cable up top you should be able to see the plunger going in and out of the valve body.

I'm not 100% sure it is a smart thing to operate the cable from the bottom up as it seems to be just hooked in there...

...be carefull with it - I don't want to be partly the cause of extra work of having to remove the Bowden cable because it has come unhooked inside the conduit.

I think you'll be OK

Looking at the shape of the drawing in the PDF file

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1345403252

It looks like the parts you need to access are at the front of the valve body.

Have a look for yourself in these pictures

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1345403315

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1345403376

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1345403391

When you dissect one of these and understand the idea of the thing...you want to run away and hug your manual gearbox...

It's amazing they last so long...let alone work in the first place.

Army. Much more than I could ever hope for IRT my post removing the B3 friction disks, great pic's and tutorial. Have a ? regarding post #10, your picture sequence shows removing the B3 clutch pack then the B1 brake band & drum. Is it not reverse of the actual disassy. Thanks again.

Valve body question
 

ARMY,

What a timely post! I have an '82 300SD, and just completely cleaned my valve body last week. I haven't put it back in, yet. I have 2 questions that I believe you can answer, as no one else, including various local MB dealers, seem to be able to answer:

1- What exactly does the "Converter Adaption Control Valve" do? (It sits next to the 3-4 Command Valve)
2- Does the Converter Adaption Control Valve have a spring with it or not?

I have two printouts, the FSM(?) for the 722.3/4 I downloaded and the ASTG book I bought for the 722.3/4. The FSM does NOT show a spring, (27.51, p. 4.8/5) but the ASTG (1991) DOES show a spring with the "Converter Adaption Control Valve" ( Upper Valve Body, Top View, ASTG 1991, p. 19). I'm confused!
When I re-assembled the valves, one at a time, there was NO spring, nothing, just the smooth-sliding valve. I saw no pieces or parts in the valve port, nor was there anything in the pan. Every other valve and spring set matched the ASTG. Did I somehow manage to lose a spring? Or was there no spring to begin with? Help! Please post photos of the valve body disassembly. Thanks,
Skaa

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1982 300SD 440+k miles

Nice thread Army

I always wanted to know what this things look like on the inside.
Maybe you can help me with some expert advice.

My 85 300D, the one with new engine, downshifts hard into first gear.
All other up and downshifts are fine.
When I first drove the car, all gears shifted hard.
After i adjusted the modulator the trans shifted better except for first gear down shift.
I could have made a mistake with all the vacuum lines, because I don't have a diagram for this model, but then all gears should shift hard.

Any advice.

Thanks
Tom

You're correct - I got the order of the text and the pictures the wrong way round - thanks for that. I've corrected the post now.

How did you make the adjustment Tom? Did you use a pressure gauge? Have you checked the vacuum system is working correctly?

This thread over on Benz World has lots of information that can help

DIY W123 Transmission Diagnose and Adjustment 722.xx OM 616-7 - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum