Scary event with my wife driving my 95 E300 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

jmbeam · #1 08-23-2012, 04:59 PM

My wife called me and said she has been hearing some loud noise from the front of the car. She was coming home from a 150 mile trip. I told her to pull into a shopping mall parking lot and I will meet her. I got into the car and drove 2 feet and a huge CLUNK! I got out and it looks like the lower ball joint snapped in half. and the lower control arm is sitting on the ground and the tire is pushing against the front fender.

How prevalent is this to happen? God forbid she was driving 70mph for this to occur? I'm not expert but I think the most lowest suspension part is called the lower ball joint, isn't it?

What else should I concern myself with? I called AAA but canceled since I thought they would damage the car more by dragging it onto the bed of the truck to bring it home to my garage.

Do you think I only need to replace this broken ball joint? If not could you guys let me know what you think should be done? Ive replaced ball joints before, years ago and usually try to do work myself with my computer and auto repair books close. Thanks in advance!

pawoSD · #2 08-23-2012, 05:21 PM

Thats probably been clunking and squeaking for a long time based on the rust on the ball. I think they are a one-piece unit on a '95, entire front control arms need to be replaced with a new joint in them already.

jmbeam · #3 08-23-2012, 05:27 PM

Nope no squeaking or clunking whatsoever. When driving home from a long trip I did notice that the car wouldnt track properly. I was going to take a look at the front end this weekend but the car beat me to it.

Are you saying one does not just buy a ball joint to replace the broken one but I need a whole assembly? Excuse me if since I havent got a grasp on this yet.

gsxr · #4 08-23-2012, 06:00 PM

Only the M104/M119 W124's use the control arm with non-replaceable ball joints. The 124 diesels all use the type ball joint that is replaceable separately.

Only use OE/OEM parts (Lemforder, etc) when replacing. You'll need a spring compressor to do the job safely.

DeliveryValve · #5 08-23-2012, 06:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr

.... You'll need a spring compressor to do the job safely.

That spring is already in a precarious position by the looks of the pictures, not sure how much it is already de-compressed. If you have not moved the car already, I would do so with the utmost concern as the spring might shoot out.

.

engatwork · #6 08-23-2012, 06:26 PM

How many miles on the car? What part of the country? How did the rubber boot on the ball joint look prior to this?

I have read that the tracking issue is a tell tale sign it needs new ball joints. Go ahead and do the other side while you are in there.

gsxr · #7 08-23-2012, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by engatwork

Go ahead and do the other side while you are in there.

+1. Good advice there.

FYI, the ball joint p/n is 124-333-03-27. There is a Uro brand joint available for about ten bucks. DO NOT buy Uro unless you would like to repeat this experience again. Lemfoerder is available for approx $20 each or you can get Genuine MB from the dealership for $32 list, ~$25 wholesale. Don't cheap out on this repair.

Note that the joint is marked with a notch and MUST be installed in the proper position relative to the control arm! I've seen many BJ's installed incorrectly. It would be interesting to do a post-mortem on yours and see if it had previously been installed incorrectly. This is described in the FSM procedure at this link. Check to see if the notch on the joint is lined up with the control arm as shown in the FSM.

socalbenz · #8 08-23-2012, 07:11 PM

This is a common failure on first generation tacomas also (usually because of cheap lifts that extend the suspension travel beyond factory specs). Yours is likely due to normal wear and tear since I doubt you lifted your E class. 9 times out of 10 the warning signs have been there for a while and ignored. As you can imagine this failure can be very dangerous at highway speeds. Visually inspect the lower ball joints when you do your oil change and look for play when you rotate your tires by grabbing the wheel and rocking it back and forth. If there is any play replace them. A cheap repair that can prevent serious damage or injury if ignored.

pawoSD · #9 08-23-2012, 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr

Only the M104/M119 W124's use the control arm with non-replaceable ball joints. The 124 diesels all use the type ball joint that is replaceable separately.

Only use OE/OEM parts (Lemforder, etc) when replacing. You'll need a spring compressor to do the job safely.

Good to know.

This also makes no sense.

jmbeam · #10 08-23-2012, 08:07 PM

I tried to order through Fastlane with Roy but havent heard back so I had to go to Autozone. IM hoping their brand is ok for $37> They were the only one that was open and they said they could have it in the am. It stinks that I had to order from Autozone but as luck goes I have been looking for a used vacuum pump for my other car 1995 s350D so now both cars are down.Looks like i may have to bite the bullet and spend $350 for a new vac pump. Normally Im not this tight but I need another few thousand for my three level artificial disc replacemt surgery done in Germany because it is not done here in the US and Insurance wouldnt pay for it anyway. Insurance wouldnt pay to fuse my back so instead im doing the better option and replacing the discs but it costs ALOT OF MOOLA! At least I know that the surgeon is the best in the world.

sixto · #11 08-23-2012, 08:15 PM

Maybe there are Sportline discs that provide better control of your spine. Make sure they don't use Uro brand discs

Sixto
87 300D

sixto · #12 08-23-2012, 08:18 PM

Is there no safe way to replace the ball joint with the control arm attached to the car?

Sixto
87 300D

pawoSD · #13 08-23-2012, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmbeam

I tried to order through Fastlane with Roy but havent heard back so I had to go to Autozone. IM hoping their brand is ok for $37> They were the only one that was open and they said they could have it in the am. It stinks that I had to order from Autozone but as luck goes I have been looking for a used vacuum pump for my other car 1995 s350D so now both cars are down.Looks like i may have to bite the bullet and spend $350 for a new vac pump. Normally Im not this tight but I need another few thousand for my three level artificial disc replacemt surgery done in Germany because it is not done here in the US and Insurance wouldnt pay for it anyway. Insurance wouldnt pay to fuse my back so instead im doing the better option and replacing the discs but it costs ALOT OF MOOLA! At least I know that the surgeon is the best in the world.

I wouldn't install an autozone part on ANY mercedes.

The German quality parts online (at various sites) are not expensive at all, I think I paid $26 each for the two german Lemfoerder ball joints on my 420sel...

engatwork · #14 08-23-2012, 08:34 PM

Let us know the manufacturer of the AutoZone ball joint. It will be interesting to see where it is from. If it is Moog brand it should be ok.

compu_85 · #15 08-23-2012, 08:41 PM

I had the same thing happen to me in a borrowed W124. The suspension design keeps the ball under tension at all times, so it doesn't clunk or pop nearly as much as other cars do when the joint gets play. In my case the ball ceased in the socket as I was pulling into a parking spot and twisted off.

-J