I bought the '90 350SDL that was in Norfolk, VA. and drove it home (to Boston area) over the weekend. Couple of questions for the board:

1) When the car is warm, it tends to hold the gear (2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th) longer. When it's cold, it seems to shift fine.....took it to my local indy mechanic pulled the dipstick yesterday and there seems to be a little too much (new) fluid. He's going to drain some off tomorrow, while he's doing an oil change & fuel filters.

Could that alone cause the shifting "issue" or could it be the vacuum modulator (or other)?

2) Car is prolly averaging under 20 mpg on the highway. Seems to lack "punch", but generally runs really well. PO used it mostly around town lately, so I'm thinking clogged injector/carbon build up....but then again, what do I know? Any insight or questions, please ask away.

3) there's a pronounced shutter from the LF during braking. Car goes straight down the road, but is worse when braking hard, especially when the wheel is turned (braking when in a left turn is more pronounced than braking in a right turn).

My experience tells me it's a ball joint, but interested in your inputs. PO said there was something that needing adjustment in the front end, but my gut tells me otherwise.

Any other insight into things I should be keen on would be greatly appreciated.

Otherwise, the car is in really nice shape and just needs a little TLC. Headlight frames look awful, so I'm looking to replace those.

Also, the rear bumper has the tell tale water marks, so I'll need to replace that down the road.

My plan is to just drive this thing like it was intended, as I'm on the road for a living.....

Thanks in advance

1) sounds like more of a control pressure cable adjustment issue than a fluid level issue. You can slacken the cable easily with a 13mm wrench.

2) make sure the fuel and air filters are clean. Also the tank strainer. If its been kept on a short leash, go on a 20 mile freeway drive, preferably over hills, in third gear to blow out the cobwebs. Don't worry about exhaust smoke in the beginning. It should clear. Worry if the smoke doesn't clear over 20 miles or gets worse. There's a vacuum line from the manifold above the IP to a solenoid on the fender or bulkhead then to a square device on the IP. Make sure air flows freely from the manifold to the square device. Poke through the fitting on the manifold with a pin to make sure it's clear. Don't poke the fitting on the square device.

3) sounds like a warped brake rotor. Not fun to replace on this car. Replace them in pairs and get new pads. I suggest Balo or Zimmerman rotors if available, ATE next. No Chinese rotors unless you want both wheels to wobble. Akebono Euro series pads perform well and leave a light gray dust compared to the Pagid, Textar, Jurid, etc. pads that turn the front wheels black as quickly as fresh engine oil turns black in a Diesel engine. Just a thought.

4) headlamp doors that look like hell are appropriate for headlamps designed by Satan. Put those headlights in the garbage can where they belong and get a set of E-code headlights. Even Depo and TYC brand knock-offs provide better light. IMO Depo makes better headlights than TYC. $250-300 on eBay and check the parts forum.

5) what are water marks on the bumper?

Sixto
87 300D

2) Check that the air path from the intake manifold's boost fitting to the ALDA on the injection pump is clear. The small lines and changeover valve can plug up with soot from the EGR. 350's don't have a cat so it's likely not an exhaust problem.

-J

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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.

When we pulled the head on my 91 350SDL we found theintake clogged with black gooey carbon build up. There were places about the size of a pencil with all the clogging. After cleaning all that out the car had a lot more power up in the rpm ranges.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Makes you wonder how much more EGR the 350s ran over the 300s...

-J

__________________
1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.

I bought it from an older lady (probably my age now). She may not have gotten out on the highway much. She lived in Indy. Lady attorney.

Before we took the head off I remember buzzing along about 75 on the highway and seeing large puffs of black smoke coming out my exhaust from time to time. I suspected they may have been globs of goo.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Thanks for all the replies. I'm changing the oil & fuel filters tomorrow.

What are your thoughts on goo abatement? I'm going to add diesel additive/injector cleaner.

I didn't see a lot of smoke on the 12+ hour ride home. Most of the time I was between 70-80 mph. PO did compression & leak down, so I know it "should" be okay.

Thoughts?

Thanks again

Fuel is injected into the prechambers then to the combustion chambers. Nothing you add to the fuel will clean the intake manifold or valve stems.

You have to do 80 in 3rd gear to blow out the cobwebs. [edit] You can do 80 in 3rd in a 3.0. I don't know if the 3.5 governor lets you go that fast in 3rd. Forget the speed and run at 4000 rpm in 3rd.

Sixto
87 300D

Welcome fellow Hoosier! My recent experience with my 300SDL was a clogged spin on filter. It idled great and was fine at low speeds, but under heavy power and hills it just seemed like it lacked ooomph. Before I changed it (and the smaller clear filter) I did a diesel purge. The car has great power and runs much quieter now. I would say it cost may $30 in parts to do. You should do this anyway since the car is new to you.

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1986 420SEL W/1990 560 SEL Full Power Interior Swap
1995 E300D
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Thanks again guys. I will get those filters changed today, w/ the oil change and report back.

Interesting that the 3.5 in governed. I'll try the Italian tune up (as much as she'll let me) and report back on that too. Maybe I'l have the mechanic pull the ALDA valve and see whether it's clogged. It might give an indication of what king of fuel/use the PO gave it.....

How tough a job is it, to remove the intake manifold and clean, to ensure it's clean?

I can only assume that cleaning the valve stems requires removing the head, then valves, rebuilding and reassembly.....

Thanks for the tutorial

I doubt the italian tuneup will touch the rubbery goo in the intake. I don't know if you can get all the goo without taking the head off but you should be able to get most of it I would think.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Remove the crossover pipe to assess the goo situation. Two bolts that take a 5mm hex bit at the manifold and two more at the mixing pipe. The green o-ring at the mixing pipe should still be supple because of the constant oil bath. Put a rag under the manifold junction to catch the gasket if it slips out or it'll slide between the block and IP. More likely it'll stick to the crossover pipe or manifold. Since these engines don't mind a small or even a big vacuum leak, reuse the gasket. Smear some RTV on it if oil leaks from the junction. The telltale is oil pooling by the #2 injector.

Sixto
87 300D

Thanks for all the responses, especially Sixto!!

So had the car on the lift 1st time today. VERY clean underneath.

Did the Oil change with Liqui Moly 15W-40 Synthetic, fuel filters and Liqui Moly diesel fuel treatment as well.

We'll see if she's more responsive after it blows out the injectors. I have a second can for the next fill up as well (and an extra quart of oil in the trunk)

The mechanic I want to look into the crossover pipe is on vacation the next 3 weeks, so that'll have to wait a bit. I wanted to get oil/fuel filters changed, as I'm seeing my daughter off to U Maine on Friday, which will be ~ 8 hours of highway driving.

Thanks again

Well, it would seem that the injectors are clearing out after 1200+ miles. Car accelerates better.

Now it looks as if my two rear injectors are leaking fuel (motor side of fuel lines). I have a strong fuel smell while driving and my mileage is in the pooper......

What's the fix for this and did the injector cleaner loosen up gunk & caused this leaking?

CORRECTION: The little black nipple that covers the last fuel return, has a little slit in it and is leaking fuel onto the valve cover. Can I repair or replace easily....?

Thanks,

PK

Clean the injectors well with brake parts cleaner and monitor so you can see whether fuel is leaking from the injector line fitting, return hoses or injector body halves. About the only thing that can cause leaks between injector halves is something like water that corrodes the mating surfaces.

Sixto
87 300D