1987 300TD wagon - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

rrrs · #1 08-30-2012, 08:38 PM

Hi, I just bought my first Mercedes, 1987 300TD Wagon from the first owner, 90K miles; it will be a car for my wife.
I got it for a very good price (I think), body and interior is in very good shape (just two really small rust spots on lover edge of rear side window), but the car is, sort of "full of gremlins"; owner was honest about this and that was why price was good

!

Appart from hard coold starting (will replace glow plugs this weekend as checked resistance and they are high; around 8-12 ohms on a cold car) cars fells VERY solid mechanicly.
Main problem that is really strange is "weird dashboard"; odometer is not working (speedo is fine), fuel level not, temperature not, oil pressure is fine, left blinker indicator works (but makes oil pressure indicator "jump" up and down when blinker is used), right blingers work on the car, but not indicator on the dash; pre-heat light does not come on (I guess this is probably due to bad glow-plugs).
Is there any link to some troubleshooting advice that could help me try and fix dashboard issues?

Other strange thing; automatic gearbox seems really nice, but when cornering hard one can hear strange "rattle" from where the gear shift lever is; was wondering what that could be; absolutely quiet in straight line?

In addition, looking for link outlining basic service (oil, filter, airfilter,...) I should do as a regular maintenence before giving the car to my wife (previous owner has not really used the car much for past 3 years)?

Rear door do not stay up; wondring if someone maybe posted a procedure of replacing the shocks that hold the door up; it looks they are hidden under the interior roof liner.

Thanks a lot for any advice!

sixto · #2 08-30-2012, 09:46 PM

Sounds like the gauge cluster electrical ground needs work. While the cluster is out, replace the bulbs that don't work.

It probably needs the end bushings for the rod that goes from the far end of the shift lever to the transmission/gearbox. They're inexpensive but tricky to install. Heating them so they're softer and'or using silicone (not petroleum) lubricant will get them seated.

You should replace all the fluids and filters if you don't know how long what's in there has been in service. I'll start the list:

- engine oil and filter
- transmission fluid and filter (Dexron III equivalent)
- power steering fluid and filter (debate rages but I use PS fluid rather than ATF)
- brake fluid
- SLS fluid and filter (there's a specific green fluid)
- engine coolant (some debate but most agree on MB label or Zerex G-05 coolant)
- differential oil
- air filter
- fuel filters

I've never replaced the rear hatch struts but I've heard it described as a simple job.

Lots of how-to's here and here.

Sixto
87 300D

rrrs · #3 08-30-2012, 10:10 PM

Hi, thanks for the tips, especially second link seems to have some really good DIY instructions!
Will start with glow-plugs and changing all liquids/filters as you sugested.
Then, after that will start taking care of smaller issues, one by one.

sixto · #4 08-30-2012, 10:14 PM

The glow plugs can be difficult to reach. The 'right' way is to remove the intake manifold. If you're lazy, it's less work but still helps a lot to remove the cruise control actuator behind the IP. Mind the plastic ball and socket joints. This might be a good time to scavenge metal socket arms from older MB Diesels and replace the damaged plastic sockets.

Sixto
87 300D

vstech · #5 08-30-2012, 11:32 PM

Welcome! Where are you located, and PICTURES!!!!

I have 4 87TD's, and a parts car 95TE, so I've got plenty of knowledge on the cars... methinks the wagon has WAAAAAAYYYY more than 90 K on it.
none of mine act the way you are describing, and they all have over 220K on them.
anyway, the odometer is a plastic gear that has disintegrated, fairly simple to repair, and it requires pulling out the cluster, so fixing the grounds and other cluster problems should be tackled at the same time.
lets get some pics up there, and search for the list of 87 owners, and add yourself to the list!

rrrs · #6 08-31-2012, 10:19 PM

Thanks for help to both; do not have any pictures, but here is a link to the add for the car I got, with some photos:
Classic Mercedes Wagon, Perfect Surf Vehicle

Contacted a local shop that specializes in MB Diesel; they quoted $225 for glowplug replacement, $600 to change all filters and liquids, as per list you sugested, and $290 for all filters and fluids; I would supply glow plugs as i alredy bought them.

It adds up rather quickly, so will try to do at least some of it myself.

I looked at glowplugs and it looks as they will be really hard to reach without taking off the IM; at the same time have no IM gasket and would really like to get this dine this weekend; Is it at all possible to change them with IM in place (would take off cruze control actuator as sugested) using regular tools? Any trick that might help?

As for the liquids, I guess oil+filter change would be the first most important to do. Any particular oil brand/model you sugest for a 90K turbodiesel?
I guess I could get a Oil/filter change done at local Wallmart; would they take a MB Dieasel?

I would then slowly do myself other fluids, one by one, over the weekends.

Is there any link to instructions and part(s) required to replace the end bushings for the rod that goes from the far end of the shift lever to the transmission/gearbox?

rrrs · #7 09-03-2012, 05:12 PM

Hi, got glow-plugs replaced over weekend, and she starts perfect now!
I did remove the intake manifold to do this and found inside the manifold a LOT of black "char"; is that normal, vas really strange?
It seems all is clean below the turbo pressure release valve; the most of the "char" was just above the valve (around the slip-on conection of the tube that conects manifold and turbocharger).
I cleaned it all and put together, but am wondering what this could be; is it result of fumes that go into the intake from the breather hose...?

As well, found that fuel return hoses conecting injectors ware all hard and brittle; couple just broke off; is there particular special hose to use (go and buy it at Mercedes dealer), or just a generic one from napa in right diameter is fine here?

sixto · #8 09-03-2012, 06:13 PM

You can thank EGR for that goop. Blocking EGR doesn't make a meaningful difference to power and fuel economy. The rallying cry around blocking EGR is about keeping the engine clean.

The correct braided hose is available through the Buy Parts -> FastLane link above.

Sixto
87 300D

vstech · #9 09-03-2012, 07:23 PM

if you MUST have some now, the 1/8" or 3/16" weed eater fuel line works well, and as a bonus it lets you see if you have air bubbles in the lines.
any auto dealer with Diesel in the lineup will have the hose in stock, as will some parts houses... if they sell to the import crowd. GM,VW,MB all stock the hose in the cloth braid. parts houses will only have rubber fuel lines...

Codifex Maximus · #10 09-06-2012, 05:36 AM

Nice wagon! Aloha.

vstech · #11 09-06-2012, 06:15 AM

Seller is mistaken about the interior. that is not leather.
if the vehicle is as described, it's a great find. low mileage wagons are not easy to find. dark tint, nice in HI, how are the back seats? does it have third row rear?

rrrs · #12 09-06-2012, 10:50 PM

Yes, IU know, seats are vinyl; should probably last longer then leather...I hope. For now they are in great shape, both front and back as well as third row

. It drives really nice and starts as a "champ"...especially since I put in new Champion glow plugs! Will Take it to Sears auto center tommorow to get all the fluids and filters changed, as per sixto's advice. Sears here do all of that except SLS; so will take care of that later. Sears use their brands for coolant, oil (they say it is Valvoline syntetic), brake fluid...; is it ok to do it there or should I strictly stick to recomended brands, as per sixto's post?
Next thing I will have to take care of is grinding noise from around the gear lever; sixto thinks it is probably end bushings for the rod that goes from the far end of the shift lever to the transmission/gearbox. Is there any info on the forum about parts needed and replacemnent procedure?

vstech · #13 09-06-2012, 11:20 PM

with basic tools, you can change your own oil, it's very easy, and you can install the oil you really want. stick with the recommended oils, a diesel requires proper oil, and you personally putting it in is the best way to know it's in there.
the filter is on top, and easy to change, but you need the proper 13mm 6point socket, and an extension. the filters are available at any auto parts place, but we prefer you order everything from the Fastlane online store that supports our lovely forum!

I find it hard to believe any Sears auto place would properly change the MB's transmission fluid and filter. I bet they don't even have a 5mm allen socket...
proper care and feeding of the car is very important, make CERTAIN the shop you take it to knows as much as you do about the car! this forum is a great place to learn all about your car.

sixto · #14 09-07-2012, 12:03 AM

Sears... hmm... make sure they use Diesel rated oil. Diesel ratings have a C prefix like CG-4, CH-4, CI-4 vs gasoline ratings with an S prefix like SJ, SL, SN. Curiously, Valvoline's SynPower product datasheet says the CF spec is obsolete. Does that mean the spec is obsolete or the product no longer qualifies? However, it remains MB 229.3 and 229.5 rated. Make sure you get a -40 variety.

Make sure they use DOT 3 brake fluid and not DOT 4 or 5 like most 'merican cars call for.

Make sure they know about the torque converter drain. It's better that they don't touch the torque converter than hook up the transmission to a flushing machine. Better that they change only 3 of 7 quarts than trash the tranny.

Sixto
87 300D

vstech · #15 09-07-2012, 06:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixto

Sears... hmm... make sure they use Diesel rated oil. Diesel ratings have a C prefix like CG-4, CH-4, CI-4 vs gasoline ratings with an S prefix like SJ, SL, SN. Curiously, Valvoline's SynPower product datasheet says the CF spec is obsolete. Does that mean the spec is obsolete or the product no longer qualifies? However, it remains MB 229.3 and 229.5 rated. Make sure you get a -40 variety.

Make sure they use DOT 3 brake fluid and not DOT 4 or 5 like most 'merican cars call for.

Make sure they know about the torque converter drain. It's better that they don't touch the torque converter than hook up the transmission to a flushing machine. Better that they change only 3 of 7 quarts than trash the tranny.

Sixto
87 300D

... I was under the impression all MB's used DOT4...
most 'merican autos use dot 3 no?
dot5 is a special fluid that should NEVER be used without massive prep... that stuff is nasty when mixed with even the SLIGHTEST amount of lower dot fluids...