See screen shot below from the OM603 print manual, job 13-345. The old style has a cylindrical metal tube where the bolt goes through. After a while, the metal cylinder separates from the rubber and slides around, allowing the shock eyelet to move around, even though the bolt is tight. The new design prevents this from happening.

All the aftermarket Stabilus/Boge shocks I've seen are the early design, because it's cheaper to manufacture. There's no way to tell except to install one on your car and wait a year or two. I've found the OE/dealer shock with new bushing design to last much, much longer.

The current OM60x shock part number is 604-200-02-14. OE/dealer list is $61, OE/dealer shock at XXXXis $44 (click here), aftermarket Stabilus/Boge is $30-$40 depending on vendor, and Uro/APA is $16-$32 (!!!) depending on the vendor.

After starting this thread I purchased one from my MB dealer. The part has the MB part number on it and also the Stabilus logo. So if I ever need to replace it again I'll be saving myself a few dollars and just buy the Stabilus.

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This car had a history, now it has a future.

Learn more about my Benz here.

Keep in mind that just because the OE dealer part is Stabilus, it doesn't necessarily mean you will receive the identical part if purchased aftermarket. Sometimes the OEM will produce the older/cheaper version for aftermarket channels and only make the newer item for MB. This isn't common, but it does happen for some items. I went through a lot of "OEM" aftermarket belt shocks and they all had the old style bushing.

Thanks for clarifying it to me David. That is interesting info! Not all parts we get aftermarket is the same as what is offered. Good reason to check with my parts guy first.

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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg

My last serp tensioner shock got so hot it barfed all its oil out the bottom in a big cloud of smoke. Part of the reason for this was that the prior shock screwed up: the metal ring on the end rotated and cut a groove on the tensioner arm. The replacement shock's end also rotated and got stuck in the same groove, which made the shock make more small movements at idle since the rubber bushing wasn't doing anything.

As a work around I filed away the aluminum on the side of the shock that had the grove to make space for a large washer. This holds the end of my new dealer shock true. Hoping this is the last time I need to re-fix this for a while.



BTW, the dealer part ran me just over $60 and they had it in stock.

-J

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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.

Hey! Why so critical of URO parts? They make some damn good paperweights.
Seriously, as a general rule it isn't worth the risk. I have tried some of them to have some personal hands on experience and IMHO they are junk.

I think that there is some worth in considering URO for non-critical, non-moving, non-stressed parts especially when they are the sole alternative readily available for the Genuine parts that are often priced at more than their weight in gold.

Example - the URO door seals fit perfectly, are easy to install, and feel sturdy enough for a location where they only see a few movements a day at most and where they are easily cared for with rubber preservation products. Additionally, if a door seal starts to wear, it's not going to damage anything else along with it.

The only alternative is to use Genuine seals, which cost $240 MORE than the URO part. You could literally buy seven URO seals for the price of one Genuine seal; somehow I don't think they will fail that quickly that you'll ever be able to go through seven of them in the lifespan of the car.

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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

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Several years ago I bought off E-Bay front door seals for the 85 300D. The originals were old and cracked and had wind noise, it was time to replace them.
I do not know the country of origin they were made in. China or Taiwan?

Installed my new seals, and it was harder to close the doors, probably because of the new rubber. i guess the wind noise diminished some. went through a car wash, and the water poured in along the top of both doors. Good thing we had some towels in the car.

Tried to adjust the doors, but to no avail. Not sure what the problem is with them, but the old original cracked seals never did leak water.
Good looking originals from PNP might be better.

Next one`s I purchase are going to be from the Dealer.


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I just installed a URO belt balancer. I wish I had this info prior to the purchase.

From here forward I can get some op's from experienced Benzers. Thanks.

All Üro parts are junk & those KNOWINGLY buying this garbage are fools.

firstly dont use a URO part on this assembly at all - it will rattle in the next 1 hour.

speaking of experience of the OM606 tensioner - same as later 60x tensioner, it has a large arm with bushing and a steel pivot bearing pin. The aftermarket ones (febi etc) are loose even when new. When you buy a genuine MB part you will see that the pin is a pretty tight sliding fit and will not have up/down movement at all.

To rid of this issue I bought a genuine MB tensioner shock and got a NOS tension arm and pin, I also replaced the alternator pulley with a clutched type, now the belt runs without flapping at all and all I hear is the injectors at idle.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

You should make T shirts and supply them to MB owners

I hate them parts, but man you are going texan on them.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

As far as URO parts go, I'd not buy URO on anything mission critical. I bought a rear trunk seal and a sheet metal sway bar link and so far so good, but I don't think I'd touch anything that had moving parts in it.

Not a bad idea about the t-shirts. Yes, two jihads ...one against URO parts and the false economy that they represent, and the second against Benzworld.org and its 126 forum & moderators.

lol, that would be something to wear on a meet, a shirt with URO and a crossout.

For the past 1 year I drove to the woodlands everyday, might run into you someday. You might see a white E300D running slow and steady to warm up before it hits I-45 like a bat from hell. The goofy looking giant in it would be me.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)