1985 300TD head gasket repair - Page 5 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

whunter · #61 09-27-2012, 02:15 PM

Worst case.
You can use a standard OM617 turbo cylinder head.
You would loose the SLS.

Self Leveling Suspension = SLS hydro pneumatic
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/general-information/151991-self-leveling-suspension-%3D-sls-hydro-pneumatic.html#post1155925

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barry123400 · #62 09-27-2012, 02:36 PM

Sodium cooled exhaust valves used in either or both heads? Stem diameter of the exhaust guides the same? Probably but a parts check on the numbers for both heads exhaust valve guides might help determine unless it is general knowledge. No hardened seat inserts present would indicate they indeed might be interchangeable otherwise.

1960mog · #63 09-28-2012, 12:33 AM

Do not use a NA head on a turbo engine.
The pre chambers in the turbo heads are bigger.
Turbos also have different in and ex valves.
Otherwise the turbo heads are identical with the small glow plug NA heads.

You will have a hard time repairing a 616 / 617 head by welding or installing valve seats.
Since cracks are so common on this type of head, we did some R and D with welding and inserts at the shop I was working in the 80s back in Germany.
All the repaired heads did not survive the first 1000 Km.

Maybe today's welding technology is better then the one we had 30 years ago.

vstech · #64 09-28-2012, 06:25 AM

yuup. the NA head will require PC's and exhaust valves to be swapped from the turbo motor...

pwogaman · #65 09-28-2012, 07:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

Worst case.
You can use a standard OM617 turbo cylinder head.
You would loose the SLS.

Self Leveling Suspension = SLS hydro pneumatic
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/general-information/151991-self-leveling-suspension-%3D-sls-hydro-pneumatic.html#post1155925

.

You can then swap out the power steering pump to one with the secondary hydraulic pump integrated, such as from a S124. I've got an extra for you Chad if that ends up being the way you go.

1960mog · #66 09-28-2012, 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

yuup. the NA head will require PC's and exhaust valves to be swapped from the turbo motor...

Noop. You can't swap the pre chambers.
Turbo chambers are 16 mm in Diameter and NA ones are only 14 mm.

vstech · #67 09-28-2012, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1960mog

Noop. You can't swap the pre chambers.
Turbo chambers are 16 mm in Diameter and NA ones are only 14 mm.

I'd think any machine shop should be able to fit the 16mm pc's no?

whunter · #68 09-28-2012, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1960mog

Do not use a NA head on a turbo engine.
The pre chambers in the turbo heads are bigger.
Turbos also have different in and ex valves.
Otherwise the turbo heads are identical with the small glow plug NA heads.

You will have a hard time repairing a 616 / 617 head by welding or installing valve seats.
Since cracks are so common on this type of head, we did some R and D with welding and inserts at the shop I was working in the 80s back in Germany.
All the repaired heads did not survive the first 1000 Km.

Maybe today's welding technology is better then the one we had 30 years ago.

The technology has changed.
There are several companies near me, repairing all types of engine blocks and heads.

Cylinder Block Thermal Spray Welding by: Republic Diesel - YouTube

Diesel Cylinder Head Rebuilding: Engine Builder

Cylinder Head Crack Repairs: Engine Builder

Cast Iron Cylinder Head Repair - Cold Stitch Crack Repair - Mopar Muscle Magazine

Repairing Damaged Light-Duty Diesel Engine Castings | AERA Engine Builders Association

.

whunter · #69 09-28-2012, 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I'd think any machine shop should be able to fit the 16mm pc's no?

It is not worth the effort - cost.

Get a good used Turbo cylinder head, I keep a pair of spares on the shelf for my personal cars.

They are $37.00 each at my local Parts Galore.

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daw_two · #70 09-28-2012, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

Worst case.
You can use a standard OM617 turbo cylinder head.
You would loose the SLS.

Self Leveling Suspension = SLS hydro pneumatic
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/general-information/151991-self-leveling-suspension-%3D-sls-hydro-pneumatic.html#post1155925

.

Chad if you go this route, I have two OM617 engines I'm parting out. I think I also have a w126 combo power steering/SLS pump laying around somewhere. If only my diesel friendly garage were completed, I could tell you for sure.

Chad300tdt · #71 09-28-2012, 02:00 PM

How much modification would it take to use the combo power steering pump from a 124 or 126? Would it require any more than a longer high pressure hose? How about the fuel filter housing? Would that need relocation?

If it requires MINIMAL modification, I'd consider going that route. I don't want to lose the SLS system, so I'll hold out for a wagon turbo head if using the combo pump is too much work.

I'm waiting to hear back from Jim Harris about a complete 1985 turbo wagon head. He said it has no cracks, but I'm waiting to see how he determined that and how much he wants for it shipped to me.

Chad300tdt · #72 10-02-2012, 05:14 PM

I can't find the post where someone asked me to take a pic of the SLS gear and how it's oriented in the head.

Here's a pic. As you can see, the side of the gear with the bevel edge faces the front of the head and the flat side goes to the back.

Chad300tdt · #73 10-02-2012, 05:15 PM

UPDATE:

I am waiting for another member to get a magnaflux and pressure test done on a 1985 turbo wagon head at my expense and his effort. If it passes, I'll buy it and have a replacement head on the way.

If it fails, I have a backup plan with another 1985 turbo wagon head from a lower mileage wagon that I can buy but there's no guarantee on its condition.

Chad300tdt · #74 10-02-2012, 05:46 PM

My next project while waiting for a replacement head is to fix the leaks on my oil filter housing.

It looks like the housing to block gasket may be fine. I believe all the oil I've been seeing is from the banjo bolt connection on the turbo oil feed tube and the oil pressure gauge connection.

Will these areas require new gaskets or washers, or can I just clean it up and tighten them?

Chad300tdt · #75 10-05-2012, 07:53 AM

I did a bit more yesterday. I removed the water pump and housing. I cleaned up the housing and chased the threads on everything then started cleaning the block.

It looks like the head gasket leaks allowed oil to blow out in front of the timing chain and at the back of the block all over the top of the transmission. I have a sludge coating of 3/8" - 1/2" to clean off some areas.

The sludge around the crank/balancer is so thick I'm surprised it didn't cause any issues.

QUESTION: While cleaning the front of the block I discovered a bead of silicone-like sealant around the crank to block edge. Is this a factory procedure or is this evidence that the crank has been out of the block?

I'm hoping that it wasn't a band-aid repair to a leaking front seal. I imagine you could loosen the bolts, slide it out a bit and squeeze some sealant in there and retorque it. Hopefully, I'm wrong.

I hope I don't find any leaks in that area as I get things more cleaned up.

I circled the sealant bead in red.