1985 300TD head gasket repair - Page 6 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

whunter · #76 10-05-2012, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

I did a bit more yesterday. I removed the water pump and housing. I cleaned up the housing and chased the threads on everything then started cleaning the block.

It looks like the head gasket leaks allowed oil to blow out in front of the timing chain and at the back of the block all over the top of the transmission. I have a sludge coating of 3/8" - 1/2" to clean off some areas.

The sludge around the crank/balancer is so thick I'm surprised it didn't cause any issues.

QUESTION: While cleaning the front of the block I discovered a bead of silicone-like sealant around the crank to block edge. Is this a factory procedure or is this evidence that the crank has been out of the block?

I'm hoping that it wasn't a band-aid repair to a leaking front seal. I imagine you could loosen the bolts, slide it out a bit and squeeze some sealant in there and retorque it. Hopefully, I'm wrong.

I hope I don't find any leaks in that area as I get things more cleaned up.

IMO it looks like the front seal is bad.

You will loose timing if you attempt repair with the cylinder head off.

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Chad300tdt · #77 10-05-2012, 12:15 PM

So I finish the current repairs to where the chain is back in place, then do the front seal?

A quick look in the manual has me worried about that job. Now I'm also worried that the oil on the back of the block and transmission could be the rear seal.

Should I stop now before I spend anymore, or is it worth proceeding?

whunter · #78 10-05-2012, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

So I finish the current repairs to where the chain is back in place, then do the front seal?

A quick look in the manual has me worried about that job. Now I'm also worried that the oil on the back of the block and transmission could be the rear seal.

Should I stop now before I spend anymore, or is it worth proceeding?

Relax, and call me.

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Chad300tdt · #79 10-05-2012, 02:19 PM

Thanks to Roy's help and advice, I'm back on track with just another few small tasks added to my list.

Hopefully everything will work out with the head I'm waiting on. Once I get the banana rail replaced, the head back on (after hours more of cleaning), and removal and inspection of the vacuum pump, I'll be replacing the timing chain.

I noticed a shiny spot inside the timing chain area on the block. Apparently using the arrow on the cam is a very inaccurate way to measure timing chain stretch. Mine said 2˚ stretch yet there are rub marks on the block.

After those items are finished, I'll be replacing the front seal.

New parts to add to my list are:
timing chain
dowel pins
spacer ring
front seal
new bolts for balancer pulley

Tools needed:
timing chain separator
timing chain crimper
possibly a puller when doing the front seal?

whunter · #80 10-05-2012, 02:56 PM

Harmonic balancer puller
46 Piece Bolt Puller Set

Seal Puller w/2 Tips
Seal Puller w/2 Tips

I have the spacer ring puller, if you need it.

As a note, here is a link to the tool and current cost NEW.
Puller (Collet Type), Applicable - Mercedes engine - M102, M110, M114, M115, M116, M117, M130, M180, OM615, OM616, OM617.
Pelican Parts.com - Puller (Collet Type)

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Whiskeydan · #81 10-06-2012, 09:23 AM

Chad, The front seal is cake compared to everything else you are doing. For me the most difficult part was fumbling with the four 10mm fan clutch to pump bolts.

Also, I pulled the seal with a hook bent on the end of a stiff wire... coat hanger iirc.

whunter · #82 10-09-2012, 01:16 AM

No update on the head Magnaflux® results.

Here is a 300TD head...
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3025510-post87.html

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Chad300tdt · #83 10-09-2012, 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

No update on the head Magnaflux® results.

Here is a 300TD head...
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3025510-post87.html

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It has the same head part number, but there's an 80 stamped on it too.

After comparing it to my head, I can see that the valves look different and the prechambers are a bit smaller when I overlay them in photoshop.

I believe this is a 1980 NA wagon head. I'll try to get updated info today on the head I've been working on getting.

barry12345 · #84 10-09-2012, 11:44 AM

Glow plug hole size might be an indicator of vintage as well. I am not certain but do those glow plug holes look like the earlier series plugs? If so it has toi be a N/a head. Maybe my perception of hole size is wrong though.

Chad300tdt · #85 10-10-2012, 02:17 PM

I'm still waiting to hear back from the seller about the 1985 turbo wagon head test results. It's been a week since I last heard from him, so I'm thinking maybe I should move on.

remotemark found a turbo wagon head in MD, so shipping would probably be cheaper too. I just don't want to screw over someone who said they'd help me.

Anyway ... I removed the radiator, condenser and fan today to make access easier for all the jobs that have been adding up.

I REALLY need a head now. I have to put it back on so I can get my chain back on. Then I can rotate the motor and get access to remove the rail pin for the timing chain tensioner rail and replace it, roll in a new chain, and do the front seal.

Chad300tdt · #86 10-11-2012, 12:17 PM

The deal with the head fell through. I'm waiting to hear back about another head from a friend before I pursue the head remotemark found.

I'm just continuing to get things cleaned up while I try to get a replacement head here.

Chad300tdt · #87 10-11-2012, 01:09 PM

I'm driving to MD this Sunday to pick up a complete head that came off a running, lower mileage 1985 turbo wagon.

It comes with everything above the head gasket including the valve cover and it's guaranteed.

whunter · #88 10-11-2012, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

I'm driving to MD this Sunday to pick up a complete head that came off a running, lower mileage 1985 turbo wagon.

It comes with everything above the head gasket including the valve cover and it's guaranteed.

That is fantastic news..

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Chad300tdt · #89 10-11-2012, 04:34 PM

I found what appears to be another leak. I think the pic is showing the rack position sensor. The cable coming out of it is covered in oil right where it attaches.

I can't find any info about this other than it controls the EGR which is removed on my wagon.

How do I fix this leak? Is there an o-ring in there or do I need a whole new cable? If it really only controls the EGR, is there a way I can cap it off?

whunter · #90 10-11-2012, 11:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

I found what appears to be another leak. I think the pic is showing the rack position sensor. The cable coming out of it is covered in oil right where it attaches.

I can't find any info about this other than it controls the EGR which is removed on my wagon.

How do I fix this leak? Is there an o-ring in there or do I need a whole new cable? If it really only controls the EGR, is there a way I can cap it off?

As I recall that is a bench job at an injection pump shop, there are NO parts available to the public (only rebuild shops).

I would clean and monitor the minor leak.

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