240D Camshaft and Towers broken: ideas?!
 

I bought a 1983 240D for $300 to save it from the junkyard and to use the body as it has 85% less rust than my '83 300D that has a strong motor. I knew the engine was bad. It cranks over without too many horrible noises, but once I removed the valve cover it is apparent that the camshaft and towers that support it are broken.

So...Now I'm considering just repairing the motor in the 240 and driving it as-is rather than doing the engine swap. Anybody know of this happening and whether it indicates/causes bottom end damage? I can't imagine it would be *too* difficult to replace the relevant bits of the top end.

Basically I want to spend the least amount of my limited time to get one of the cars to a decent status before winter sets in. My 300D is held together by zip ties, duct tape, and guardian angels. Rusted through to the ground and to the engine bay: not good for keeping salt/snow out.

And if anybody's interested, I'd be willing to sell/trade both of the cars for a better W123. I like the OM617 motor but the smaller one would work for my purposes.

Thanks!
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...okentower2.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...okentower1.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...brokencam2.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...brokencam1.jpg

Most often cause by Valves and Pistons hitting each other. And, that is often from a Timing Chain issue.

But, I suppose it is possible for the Camshaft to Fatigue and over time Break.

You can remove the Oil Pan and see if there is any Metal fragments in it.

That looks much like my 300sd when the timing chain broke.

Beware being too creative in some situations. I do the same thing time after time, aka thinking too much aka thinking myself into having to deal with more issues down the road. That has never worked out smoothly for me.

You don't know the state of that 616 overall, so if you go to Plan B you in effect start a whole new project on the fly. If it had been your car, and you knew its history, I would be all for saying 'repair it'.

You had a Plan A, which was pretty straightforward. You have limited time before winter. You know your 300d.

I would suggest you think seriously about sticking to Plan A. In doing so you get to keep the best part of your 300d, the motor, while keeping the best part of the 240d: the manual climate control system and of course the less rotten bodyshell.

Just another $0.02.

It looks like a possible vac pump failure which broke the chain. You might be able to get by with new cam towers and a cam. I'd try to look inside the bores with a scope to check for damage.

I may have a cam and towers.

Even if the cause of the broken camshaft wasn't due to valves hitting pistons I bet they did right after the camshaft broke.

If you want to repair this it is a head off job - you have to check the valves for straightness among other things...

If you want the less rusty car to run again I'd be just swapping the OM617 in there.

Thanks!
 

Thanks everybody for the input.

Sounds like it's what I suspected: more time and energy than it's worth! I get hopeful that something will take wayyy less time than it actually will.

I really like the OM617 powerplant anyway :) I run WVO and it seems like the best option out there for it. Not buying fuel has proven addictive.

Once the 240D Engine is out you can fool with it later when time is not critical and see what happend to it.

WVO:eek:

;)

X2 on vacuum pump failure. I like to see 240's keep there engines, but this is going to be more work then it appears. I would do a complete rebuild on the 616 if you were to keep it in the car. But as you have a 300 for parts, might be better off doing that.