93 300D 2.5T. I have the alda removed and a pressure wastegate mod just for full disclosure. However the problem I am going to mention existed prior to those changes.

When I start out cold in the morning (say air temps are <60F) I have kind of hard shifting through all the gears but it is most pronounced from 3rd to 4th (high gear). The engine just roars and it seems to not want to shift for maybe 5 or 10 seconds past when it should. I reposition the throttle down and up, no change until it decides it wants to shift. It always (so far) has shifted eventually. I live in the country so here is my typical morning shift sequence. Leave the drive way, up through the gears of course. I have a turn (and up shift requirement) about 2.5 miles from the house and the same thing as when I leave my driveway, shifts hard and is resistant to shifting. My next shift in the morning is when I have a freeway entrance exactly 5 miles from the house and it still sometimes doesn't really want to shift well there (sometimes OK by then). After 30 miles (my commute to work) it shifts like a new one on all subsequent shifts. I don't seem to have these problems on a warm summer day morning, only in the cooler and colder weather. Also during these episodes, it shifts hard, like it is slamming into gear when it does finally drop. I guess I would say it also hangs just a little in low gear to 2nd as well, then a soft shift from 2 to 3 and hangs in 3rd.

Any thoughts? I've done some searching but nothing seems to be exactly as I describe.

The '93 2.5 doesn't have a BFS, correct? There's a vacuum line from the pump to the VCV and a line with a damper from the VCV to the tranny modulator. Nothing in between like a BFS with a coolant temp sensor to be an obvious culprit.

Sounds like a piston or plunger is sticking when cold. What ATF are you running?

Sixto
87 300D

Not sure on the fluid. Has 't been changed for awhile. Would a fluid change be a good or bad idea? If I do need to change, what fluid is recommended (brand and type/ weight etc) appreciated. And how much is typical on a change?

U are correct on the plumbing, much simpler on the 93 vs the 90-91's I think.

Drive home tonite. Rainy and 45 here in nc today, it hung a little but then drove like new. This is probably the 2nd or 3rd year it's done this on and off.

If something's sticking, it might stick less with synthetic fluid.

Refilling after draining the pan and torque converter will take about 7 quarts.

My experience with synthetic is cold shifts feel more like warm shifts. Warm shifts don't feel much different between synthetic and plain old Dex III.

Sixto
87 300D

Could you be experiencing the K1 spring issue? Try a search on 1262704477 or 126 270 44 77 for a description of the fix.

DIY Mercedes 722.3 722.4 722.5 Transmission K1 Piston Spring Repair Kit Install - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum

__________________
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...aman/Fleet.jpg

Peach Parts W124.128 User Group.

80 280SL
85 300SD
87 300TD
92 300D 2.5 Turbo
92 300TE 4Matic

What kind of synthetic fluid would be recommended? Sorry, i don't know squat about trans fluids. I assume there are several weights etc. Specifics would be greatly appreciated!

Can I just do a normal fluid/filter change and replace with synthetic. Meaning any residual normal oil will mix OK or is there some kind of procedure to switch it over the first time around with synthetic.

It could be that in colder temps, the cold is sucking more air out of any small holes or gaps at the fittings, in your vac lines, exaggerating the problem. Check vac lines.