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  #16  
Old 10-25-2012, 12:53 PM
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Thanks for the link. I may look into that later. Right now I'm letting the MMO soak in. I figure for the few bucks the bottle cost it can't hurt to try. I'm wating for new heat shields in the mail so the car would've been down anyway.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
There is no specific amount to put in. I did about 1/4 cup per Cylinder.

No matter what you put in after 1 week what is not on top of the Pistons is going to drain past your Piston rings by way of the Ring Gap and the Groove to ring Clearance.

When you are done you need to Crank the Engine with the Injectors or Glow Plugs out to blow off any liquid MM on the Piston Heads.

The MM Soak unstuck the Piston Rings on My Volvo but was when I did the same to the Mercedes there was no apparent effect on anything including the Blow-by.

I am not in favor of adding MM Oil directly to the Motor Oil in Diesel Engines especially if you use multiviscosity Oil as most do. Putting MM Oil into the Engine Oil is going to dilute and thin it.
That all makes sense. I suppose I'll just have to wait and see what results I get from this. I poured it in last night. I ended up using a long funnel that went into the inector hold. Did about 1/4 cup per cylinder.

Since the MMO drains past the pistons into the oil, I'm guessing it would be a good idea to change the oil out after this, no? My local Wal Mart has the 15W-40 Mobil Delvac on sale so I'm good with that. haha

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  #17  
Old 10-25-2012, 02:20 PM
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I put 1/2 qt of MMO in my crank case with every oil change, on a 5qt engine.
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  #18  
Old 10-25-2012, 02:28 PM
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Nothing to lose and little if anything to gain. The dilution of the oil by the draining down of the mmo is not a real issue to me anyways.

Leaving it in the base oil will aid in further internal cleaning of the engine. Personally I would not change the oil for awhile. Let then mmo work. As long as less than one quart of mmo was used.

It is getting colder this time of year so a little resultant thinning of the base oil is of not much concern to me. Others may probably feel otherwise has to be a given.
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  #19  
Old 10-26-2012, 09:51 AM
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I see adding marine 2 stroke oil to the fuel mentioned here. How much to a full tank roughly. Is USLD everywhere? The pump I use says not for 2007 and newer diesels, does this mean it is not USLD?
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  #20  
Old 10-26-2012, 10:23 AM
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I thought that USLD fuel was the norm across the nation.

I use 2 cycle oil to my fuel, the stuff they sell in Calif looks like water, not like the fuel they use to sell when I was a kid. that stuff had lubricity to it and was oily. I might be a little heavy on my ratio, I add one oz per gallon, I have read where some add 1/2 oz.

Charlie
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  #21  
Old 10-26-2012, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
I use 2 cycle oil to my fuel, the stuff they sell in Calif looks like water, not like the fuel they use to sell when I was a kid. that stuff had lubricity to it and was oily. I might be a little heavy on my ratio, I add one oz per gallon...
That's exactly what I've been running as well. With the ULSD's lack of lubricity, a little oil can't hurt and can definitely help.

I spent some time looking for a place I could buy a sulfur additive to make it like it used to be, but no luck.
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  #22  
Old 10-26-2012, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mach4 View Post
That's exactly what I've been running as well. With the ULSD's lack of lubricity, a little oil can't hurt and can definitely help.

I spent some time looking for a place I could buy a sulfur additive to make it like it used to be, but no luck.
According to a diesel lubricant study by "Spicer", biodiesel added to ULSD to form a 2% mix was the best lubricant!

I'm currently running B100 (100%) biodiesel from a commercial ASTM biodiesel station near me. The 240D loves it. Running really smooth (well, as smooth as a 616 can run... )

Packman
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  #23  
Old 10-27-2012, 12:11 AM
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We have one station here in Santa Cruz that sells 5% Bio-Diesel, and another one that I think sells 100% Bio-D. may be others. but I don`t chase around for it.

I first heard about the 2 cycle oil on a Dodge Diesel forum, think the guy was Moparman. claimed to increase his milage some.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #24  
Old 10-27-2012, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
We have one station here in Santa Cruz that sells 5% Bio-Diesel, and another one that I think sells 100% Bio-D. may be others. but I don`t chase around for it.

I first heard about the 2 cycle oil on a Dodge Diesel forum, think the guy was Moparman. claimed to increase his milage some.

Charlie
Hi Charlie,

One easy way to see how nicely the 240D runs on B100 is to pick up a few gallons in a portable container, and then set up your car for a 'diesel purge', but using the B100. I think you will be surprised at both how high the solvent-value is on B100 (as you see deposits being removed from the fuel pump and injectors) and how nicely the engine runs on it. It does have a little less power (due to B100 having less energy than #2 Diesel), but it cleans the fuel system and injectors nicely.

I can't prove it, but on my Diesel Tahoe, I believe the B100 took care of my blow-by. I had significant blow-by when I first bought it. After running it on B100 for months, I happened to check the blow-by, and it was GONE. The only thing I can think of is that the high solvent value of the B100 eventually broke down the varnish/carbon on the cylinder walls. All I can tell you is that I don't have it anymore. I did change a few other things, like opening up the intake and the exhaust (i.e. larger intake, larger exhaust), but I didn't really change anything else.

BTW, I suggest using the B100 out of a bottle (i.e. diesel-purge style), because running a full fuel tank of B100 in a vehicle that has never run it will cause all kinds of deposits to come off the inner surfaces of the fuel tank, fuel lines, etc, and totally gum up your fuel filters, stalling your car.

Therefore, I usually start with a low mix and ramp up to B100 tank by tank. Biodiesel can be mixed with petroleum diesel in any ratio. I usually do B20, then B50, then B75, then B100 over several tanks. I monitor fuel filters very closely and usually swap them out a couple of times before I get to B100.

Sincerely,

Packman
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Last edited by PackerEdgerton; 10-27-2012 at 11:43 AM.
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  #25  
Old 10-27-2012, 10:37 PM
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My local service has 20% Bio diesel and that is what I run if I need to fuel up near home. I have been using it for a year on my VW IDI turbo diesel.
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Last edited by Silber Adler; 10-30-2012 at 04:24 PM.
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  #26  
Old 10-28-2012, 12:41 AM
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Packer, I`ll pick up some and do as you suggested.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #27  
Old 12-26-2012, 01:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haromaster87 View Post
Hey guys,


So my engine in my '84 300D has 150K on it, starts right away, good power, all seems pretty solid. Haven't ever gotten compression #'s on it. It has a bit of blow by, which I don't let bother me nowadays.

Anyway, I will be getting new injectors soon, and I had planned that when I got the new injectors and had them out, I would do a Marvel Mystery Oil soak in the cylinders. I've read a lot about people doing it, especially on here. Some have seen some decent improvement, some not much. Haven't read about any adverse effects of it yet.

I don't mind the car being down for a week, I was planning to do other stuff on it while it sat. However, in all the reading I did on it, I could not find a specific instructional procedure, so I was hoping to find at least one person who's done it and can answer some questions.

1. How much MMO do you use per cylinder? I want to say I read 1/4 cup, but I can't find where I read that.

2. I remember reading you have to turn the engine every so often. When they say turn, do they mean turn it over a couple times with the starter? Or like using a wrench to rotate the engine by hand?

3. How many rotations roughly should I do, and how often?

4. Once the week(5 or 7 days?) has gone by, and I'm ready to start the engine, do I need to try and suck the MMO out of the cylinders with a hand pump or something, or do I just start the car? I want to avoid some kind of hydro lock obviously.

I think that covers everything. Also, if anyone who has done this has anything they feel I should know, feel free to throw it in.

Thanks!
My experience is that cylinder soaked with MMO would not work. I took out the pistons of the SDL and found 3 of them with stuck rings. Soaking them in MMO did not loosen them. It was so bad that I had to pry out the rings. I needed to scrape all the carbon out using a knife even after soaking the pistons in solvent, solvent similar to Simple Green. This is my experience. Others' may differ.
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  #28  
Old 12-26-2012, 03:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ah-kay View Post
My experience is that cylinder soaked with MMO would not work. I took out the pistons of the SDL and found 3 of them with stuck rings. Soaking them in MMO did not loosen them. It was so bad that I had to pry out the rings. I needed to scrape all the carbon out using a knife even after soaking the pistons in solvent, solvent similar to Simple Green. This is my experience. Others' may differ.
And this motor had been running diesel -- or was it run on some form of alternative fuel?

What you describe sounds like ring polymerization from injecting insufficiently heated WVO/SVO.
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  #29  
Old 12-26-2012, 02:50 PM
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Totally stuck rings require disassembly to correct. However, partially sticking rings or clogged oil rings can, and have been corrected with MMO.

You can also replace a quart of oil at oil change with a quart of MMO for a few short cycle oil changes and get it out for a few hundred miles of constant high speed freeway driving. Speed, heat, and pressure, combined with strong detergents and good clean oil, can do wonders. 2500 to 3500 miles oil/filter changes with one of the more highly recommended oils will also help keep it clean.

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