1987 300TD Wagon Buying Advice
 

Hello all,

One of my cars is dying and so I've been looking around for a wagon to replace it. I've been eyeing the 87 300TD but have no clue on what to look for or what they usually go for. I'd rather pay a little more to have one that has had all the common issues ironed out as opposed to getting a dirt cheap project that I would be clueless on how to fix.

- Are there still decently low mile examples out there for sale in good condition?

- And what should I look for?

- Of the ones I see on Craigslist, most are on the east coast (nervous about potential rust). I live in California so more than likely I would buy site unseen but would try to get a pre-purchase inspection if possible.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Well, since no one has jumped on this one, I'll take a stab.

Rust is a killer. That is probably your most pressing consideration. Make sure to look under those interior mats for rust and check the side rails and battery tray.

After rust, look for SLS issues, engine, trans, drive train, brakes.

If all that is well, then look for cosmetic issues.

Better to pay a bit more for a pristine car than to buy a cheap beater and try to fix it. I'd say $4K USD is a premium price I'd only pay for a very well maintained and above average example.

Hopefully, one of the other guys will give 87 enhanced advice.

Welcome to the forum.

welcome to the forum.
I have started collecting 87's it seems. I'm in the process of getting 87TD's and getting the critical issues ironed out and selling them.
there are several critical points on the cars that need addressing, and also, plenty of irritating issues.
none of the car's I've found have any serious rust, but I've found plenty of places where they have potential for corrosion. the rear hatch, the rear windows, the rear fenderwells, the battery tray, and the entire firewall area. the cowl drains, and the floorpan. look over the car VERY VERY well for these issues.
the engine has potential problems. look at the head casting number between intake port 2 and 3 for the 2nd to the last pair of numbers. 14 is stock, anything above that is a positive point, but 14 is not a problem, it's just a point to know about. next look at the vacuum pump. if it's not got any screws holding the outer shell on, it's stock, and should immediately be replaced, around $400 parts. next is the belt tensioner, it's around $200 parts, next is the fan, if it's aluminum, it's stock, if it's plastic, count the blades. should have 11, not 9. plan on replacing it with a new blade, and clutch. $200... motor mounts, ball joints, tie rods, idler arm, rear subframe, and multilink bushings, wheel bearings... there are plenty of potential issues with the car.

I just went through this experience....

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/326138-buying-1987-300td.html

Any questions please feel free to pm me or vstech.

Where are you located?

There are not many to find...rust is the key to any old car's value...you can fix anything else with a wrench but rust takes a special talent and ur never sure to be rid of it.

SLS shocks are expensive, find one that does not leak. The higher the head casting # the better. All the wagons are 1987 only so most all probably have the #14 head.

Everything else should be no different than any other W124/603 sedan

I'd have to count my fan blades...but I think I have 9...I replaced the clutch and used a later model 603 clutch and fan at a total cost of less than half what the 1987 clutch would be...Works fine, never had any problems.

just keep in mind, there are 2 different 9 blade fans, the one with the rounded blades, and the one with the flat end blades, the flat end black fan WILL impact your radiator and damage it. I now have 3 different damaged radiators from this issue. don't take a chance, get the 11 blade fan for the 87!

this has been my experience as well. owned by cheapskates, or hand-me-downs to college kids, they're all abused and beat up, neglected for years, with many broken and missing parts.

every few months a rare clean low mileage one will pop up, but it's never by a private seller, it's always a dealer, and they're asking $17k for it.

i gave up trying to find a decent one at a fair price.

yep. took me 3 + years to find mine

hi guys, thanks for the tips. sounds like theres alot to absorb for a noob that isn't a wrencher.

jay bob - sorry about that, just updated my account to show my location. i'm in san jose, ca

the beauty of these cars is ANYBODY can be a wrencher! they are just so simple to work on. and this GREAT forum has such wonderful members assisting and explaining, nothing will be a surprise with the cars!

Vstech - let me know when you got a minty one for sale that you've done you're magic on

any particular color you are looking for?
I'll have another white one soon.

I usually like white in other cars but white in this wagon is a little bit flat to me, and I'm not a big fan of blue interior. Maybe a tan interior with white would change my mind?

Is there a page that shows the different colors it came in along with interior combinations?

Thanks,
John

Just talked to a mercedes mechanic, he said stick with 81-84 (maybe 85 if I want 1-2mpg's better but there's some trap evaporator to deal with?) over the 87. Much better reliability. True?

... I've only had my wagons a few years, so I can't confirm total longevity, but mine are tanks with minor service only. Power, comfort, handling, all favor the 87.