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#1
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Fast Glow Power Drain, help!
For my w115 300d '75 car. Installed this months ago and found that I would get a massive battery drain. Ford type solenoid is new and it is hooked up correctly as when I run a jumper, manual push button glow works perfectly. I read somewhere that too much voltage can cause a solenoid to remain connected which would explain the drain - this is a pita as I have to open the hood in the morning and connect a lead from positive terminal to disconnected solenoid lead temporarily and start car and then disconnect lead, etc. Is it possible that a reversal of solenoid posts could create this situation or does it not matter? Thanks, anyone else encounter this?
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#2
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Also, I have a glow light that comes on -it just occurred to me that the glow timer is still connected, perhaps this could be creating the situation?
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#3
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So your amber GP light is not wired to your new push button switch? The glow timer/relay is still connected?
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#4
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yes, I get a glow light and glow timer should still be connected - i assume that i can unplug glow timer as it is not needed any longer and lose the glow light which is also not needed - could this be causing the drain
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#5
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I would disconnect it and see what happens. I cant quite see how you are still using the old relay but you don't need it so see if disconnecting it solves the problem.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#6
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and the verdict . . . still freaking draining! Driving me nuts - unplugged the connector from the glow timer under the steering column and tested this morning - could a faulty/cheap bush button starter switch create a drain like this? This problem is a pita as I have to connect a jumper from the positive battery terminal to the solenoid temporarily to start in the morning and rain is moving in so this proecedure will get old fast! Any ideas? Other relay(s) pulling off power?
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#7
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I have the same system minus the relay involvement and probably the same Napa, 15 amp push button switch, which I doubt would be the problem. Check the jumpers between GPs , somethings grounding someplace, sorry cant help, my system hasn't had that problem.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#8
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Just take a 1980 on 300D GP relay and wire it to the ignition switch and the original indicator light.
All original Mercedes parts and no extra buttons or lights necessary.
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76 240 D. Bought in 1998 for $25. 85 300D. Got it for free with a bad engine. ( Sold ) 60 Unimog 404. What was left of it, was given to me. Now powerd by 617A. 88 560 SEL. Bought without engine and trans. Now powerd by 617A. 67 250 SE. Cuope. For resto or sale. 64 220SE. For resto. |
#9
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Is the Solenoid you used a Ford Glow Plug Solenoid or a Ford Starter Solenoid?
Could it be the Solenoid is or the Switch is Defective? Did you throw away the Ground Wire that was on the original system that grounded it to the Temp Sensor or the Cylinder Head? Below is a pic of the Starter Solenoid I used on My Volvo and labled how I connected it. Note there is a small Wire Terminals S and I.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#10
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Quote:
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#11
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Quote:
__________________
1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
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