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#1
11-06-2012, 01:25 PM
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w124 rear axle (half shafts) nut tooling
I need to address my creaky axle on the driver's side. And am going to swap axles to put wear in spider going the other direction, or exchange for an axle off one of my spare cars. Need to look at rubber boots everywhere to make up my mind.
I haven't gotten dirty yet, just in the planning and tooling-up stage.. Step III in this post talks about 30mm 12 side socket: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/186627-diy-w124-rear-wheel-carrier-removal-rear-wheel-bearing-change.html Other references talk about a serrated socket, and I know the special Mercedes tool number for that socket, which appears to be perfect fit for that nut with its 12 dimply sides. My question: will a standard 30mm 12 side socket safely do the R&R of the axle nut, getting it torqued back on to spec... or is the serrated version a must? I don't even know the Mbenz price for it, any experiences with other-brands or sources welcome. I think I already have the 10mm driver needed to get the inboard axle bolts off the diff. I think it's the same as used to get head bolts off, is where I used that last. Any other special tools required to squirt the axles out? I've seen the FSM that says compress the axle spiders axially is all that's needed to get the end clearance to pull from car. (No removal of brakes or wheel carrier required, thank goodness).
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Cheers! Scott McPhee 1987 300D Last edited by scottmcphee; 11-06-2012 at 01:39 PM. Reason: clarification and wordiology 
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#2
11-06-2012, 02:38 PM
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I have not done this job before but in the description in Step III it apparanly is refers to a regular 12 point 30mm Socket. It does not mention that it is a special Tool.
"III. On the 30mm nut that is screwed to the axle shaft there is a tab that is bent in - bend this out so that you can remove the bolt. Put the parking brake on (firmly!) - use a 30mm 12-pointed socket and an extension to loosen this bolt. The manual says the tightening torque is 200+Nm (a lot!)"
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
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#3
11-06-2012, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
It appears to be a normal 30mm 12 point Socket but looks like it is 3/4" Drive. The instructions call for you to lube the threads and face of the flange on the Nut and Torque to 200-240 Nm. I don't see why a regular 1/2" Drive 12 point 30mm Socket could not be used for this job. If you are worried that a cheapie Socket might split get a Craftsman or one from the better Tool Makers. The Torque Wrench is another issue. In the last pic I am trying to show that some Sockets may have too much taper/radius and don't allow enough of the Socket teeth to reach the Nut. The Socket in the Pic on the far right is a cheapie one and when I get around to it I intend to grind off most of that tapered area so that the Socket teeth get more complete bit on the Nut.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel Last edited by Diesel911; 11-06-2012 at 03:29 PM.
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#4
11-08-2012, 10:29 AM
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I bought a regular 1/2" drive 30mm 12 sided socket for $5 and might need to grind it flatter on the working end to hold more of that rather shallow (thin) axle nut. For sure the MBenz tool shown above has a flatter working end to get closely seated / full tooth depth butted up against the flaired flange on that nut. I'll do a fit check and grind my socket if necessary.
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Cheers! Scott McPhee 1987 300D
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#5
10-11-2013, 05:44 PM
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I know this is an old thread but I'm battling this axle nut right now and it's kicking my ass. I actually had the same idea to grind the socket flat after using it last night with the taper, it kept slipping off. I took it to work today and ground it down flat and it fits a lot better but the nut isn't coming loose. It's been soaking in pb blaster all night long too. I have used this hollow metal bar as a breaker for years .. years. And I just BENT it! trying to remove this damn nut. What are next steps?
I'm considering removing the entire wheel carrier and then the axle from the diff and bringing the whole lot to my indy. The reason i'm doing this in the first place is to get the bearing pressed out and new one in. We won't be able to get to the bearing with that nut there and I imagine it'll be harder to remove with the assembly off the car .. I'm hoping he can cut it or something? w124 e320 wagon, 1994 :/
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1992 190e 2.6
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#6
10-11-2013, 07:57 PM
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Kroil works soo much better. Read the test reports
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1985 300D 198K sold 1982 300D 202K 1989 300E 125K 1992 940T "If you dont have time to do it safely, you dont have time to do it" "The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not."
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#7
10-11-2013, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
It looks like a Rear Axle Nut is cheap at least a Febi one is about $3. If you were going to cut the Nut of a Dremel Type Tool with the little fiber Cutoff Wheels would work. It would be slow but you are less likely to damage anything. You could also get a Center Punch and Punch a string of dimples and use a Small Drill and drill what would almost be a slot the parallel to the Shaft. You did not say if you have access to an Impact wrench. If you do I would heat the Nut with a Propane Torch a bit and try the Impact Wrench. I have several 12-Volt Impact Wrenches that are made for removing Tire Lug Nuts/Bolts and found that it works almost as well as a Pneumatic Impact Wrench. I managed to remove a 200+ foot pound Crankshaft Bolt with one. I got mine from Harbor Freight. Several Years ago they were about $30. If used for the purpose it was made for it makes Tire rotation faster; so if it did not work to remove the Nut it would still be useful. Of course using an Impact Wrench might also mean your Socket needs to be of a decent quality. Note that the Hazet Socket made for the job is 3/4" Drive. On some jobs 1/2" drive Breaker Bars are too flexible and does not transfer the force needed.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
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#8
10-11-2013, 09:13 PM
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there is a dimple on the axle shaft, and the nut is peened into the dimple to prevent it from backing out. you need to unpeen the lip, to get the nut off.
I just pulled two off tonight, and it's a simple task, raise and support the rear of the car, remove the wheel, set the 30mm socket on the LONGEST BREAKER BAR you can find, and stand on it. it'll pop right out. if you do not have a long breaker bar, use a shorter one, and a LONG cheater pipe, the handle of the jack is fairly safe to use. and stand on the cheater. it'll pop right out. you have to put the car in park, and the emergency break NEEDS to be good and solid. it's nearly impossible to do it with tires on the car, as the depth would then require an extension on the socket, and that would tilt your attack with the bar.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!  1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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#10
10-13-2013, 08:30 AM
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I'll take pics if you like...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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#11
10-13-2013, 02:42 PM
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I pulled the tab out, that part is kind of obvious. Standing on an extension with a cheater bar attached yielded no results.
I borrowed an impact and a torch from a friend. I applied a lot of heat to the axle nut and went at it with the impact(air), it eventually freed up. Now there's another "must have" tool on my list.
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1992 190e 2.6 Last edited by smp; 10-14-2013 at 01:32 AM.
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#12
10-13-2013, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
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#13
10-29-2014, 02:13 PM
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I attempted to start a similar rear wheel bearing job a few days ago on my W210 (same as most 124's) and it didn't go very well. After removing the 30mm outer nut from the axle shaft, the shaft will not move inward. It appears the splines of the axle shaft may be rusted together with the splines of the hub. Soaked it in Kroil for an hour or so, beat it with a sledgehammer, tried a torch on the hub, so far it won't budge a single millimeter.
Added more Kroil, more BlueWrench™, and pounded on the end of the axle more with the sledge. All that did was start to mushroom the end of the axle shaft, which isn't good. Of course, I do not have the fancy $1200 factory tool for pressing the shaft out of the hub. I then tried a 3-jaw puller (photo attached), which pressed on the axle end similar to the factory tool, but that didn't move it either. Soaked in Kroil overnight, attached a different/stronger hub puller, and hit it with the impact wrench to press the axle shaft out. I chickened out and backed off the impact wrench before the tool broke or threads stripped. Next I removed the tool and tried heating the hub for 6 minutes straight via Bernz-O-Matic until stuff started to smoke, and slammed directly on the end of the axle shaft with a sledgehammer. And... It. Would. Not. Move. The damned axle appears to be welded to the hub. I gave up, and put it all back together so I can get the car off the lift. All my hammering has probably damaged the bearing even worse than it already was. But wait, there's more! When I got done putting everything back together, the wheel would not go on. Like, not at all. Turns out when I was bashing on the axle end with the sledgehammer, a couple times I missed and got the edge of the hub, which also centers the wheel. There was no visible damage, but it was out of round enough to prevent the wheel from going on. An hour later, after hand filing around the perimeter, I was finally able to get the wheel to slide on normally. I bet there will be more surprises when I test drive it tomorrow. Anyway, I bought a used knuckle assembly and axle shaft from a salvage yard. I'll have to replace both the axle and the entire hub/knuckle assembly since I can't get the old ones apart. On the bright side, I probably wasted a good 6-8 hours including two trips to the hardware store for bolts, and research time on the EPC and eBay to find the correct donor parts. Now I gotta hope the used stuff I get is correct, and isn't junk. Should have both delivered next week for $105 total. Related anecdote: The FAG brand bearing was made in Slovakia, and came with a "Ruville Germany" hardware kit... made in Taiwan. Photos of the FAG bearing kit are located at this link, they are too large to upload to the forum. Further adding to my opinion of Taiwan parts, the outer 12-pt axle nut included with the kit is not the standard 30mm like factory, it is 2mm larger, and does not fit on the axle shaft. I keep factory nuts in stock so it wasn't an issue, but c'mon, seriously? I know, I know, what do I expect for $46... if I ever do this on a 500E, I'll probably shell out for the OE bearing kit at triple the price. Bottom Gear Top Tip: The first part of this job should be to remove the 30mm axle nut, and confirm the axle shaft will move inward, BEFORE you tear everything else apart. Oh, and as SMP found out the hard way, a healthy 1/2" impact wrench is the way to go for removing the 30mm nut... spins it right off with zero effort. I hate working on cars. 
Last edited by gsxr; 10-29-2014 at 10:00 PM.
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#14
10-29-2014, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
I don't see much rust... crazy you couldn't move the axle... There is an indentation on the end of the axle shaft... I center a drift punch in there...always worked for me.
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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#15
10-29-2014, 10:02 PM
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I know! This was crazy. I kept double-checking to see if there was some clip or retainer that I had forgotten to remove.
Side note:I doubled-checked the Ruville Taiwan axle nut included, and it wasn't just the wrong hex, the threads were also too large. The nut was 2mm larger than stock. Apparently it was the wrong hardware kit, or the wrong nut in the kit. 
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