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Cruise Control on '79 W123
Hello All,
I have a 1979 w123 240D Auto and was wondering how to even use the cruise control? I can't test if it is working if I dont know how to use it Thanks! H |
#2
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welcome to the forum
The cruise control lever has 4 setting. 1. lift up, setting (touch switch) Accelerating (hold switch) 2. push down, Setting (touch switch) decelerating (hold switch) 3. push away from you. Cancelling 4. pull toward you. Resume. Hope this help some. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#3
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From the owners manual.
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83 SD 84 CD |
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Thank you both for those links/instructions!
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#5
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Quote:
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#6
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Either up or down works for the initial setting.
Once you are set, then pushing down decreases the set point and pushing up increases the set point. Pulling towards you re-establishes the set point, if you tapped the brakes (or clutch) without having turned off the car. If you were set at 70 and you are now doing 50 it will accelerate to the set point and hold. Pushing away turns off the system.
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family Still going strong 2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD) 2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD) both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023 2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles) 2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles) 1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh 1987 300TD sold to vstech |
#7
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Quote:
I tired it out and it did not work. The vacuum line to it is not leaking so it must be something else? |
#8
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You have an amplifier box under the dash, a vacuum pod under the hood that tugs on the throttle, and a speed sensor on the back of the speedometer head in the cluster.
Any of those could be the cause. I know JamesDean is the resident CC expert. However from what I have read is that the best fix for one of these old vacuum systems is to replace it with a modern aftermarket control system. Check the wiki, someone even figured out how to reuse the existing stalk switch so that it is transparent to the user.
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family Still going strong 2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD) 2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD) both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023 2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles) 2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles) 1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh 1987 300TD sold to vstech |
#9
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First, Check the cable to the actuator. This causes most of the mechanical issues with this type system.
The cable often frays at one end or the other and jams up in the outer part. It can be easily removed from the actuator by removal of the screws and unhooking the cable The cable should have approx 1mm free-play when the throttle is closed. There are two pipes to the actuator. One is Vac supply and the other leads into the cabin and is the air-source--just make sure its not blocked--goes into cabin as it was assumed this is a clean source of air. The cable can be replaced by using the inner from a push-bike brake-cable. The actuator is pretty reliable although the diaphragm can perish--You'll see that when you remove the cable.... The main electronic faults relate to dry soldered joints and some caps in the controller. This is fitted behind the kick-panel on the side in front of the driver's side door. Its a ally tin-can approx 6" by 4" secured by a bracket. After removal from car and unplugging the leads, It can be opened up after unlocking the bent-over case, the PCB will then slide out attached to the elect socket. There are a couple of electrolytic caps (47uF 25V) that will need replacing--Use a modern 63V type at 47uF.
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http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K, -Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog. W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow, -Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year.... |
#10
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Quote:
Thanks EDIT: Okay so I think there MAY be something up with the diaphragm. How the hell do I get it out of the actuator? |
#11
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I have uploaded a picture of the PCB. Which two caps need to be replaced?
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#12
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The two things that look like silver cans with a + and - on them.
Be sure to note the orientation of the + and - the caps are polarity sensitive. New caps may be marked differently but just be sure to match polarity however it is marked. New caps of the same uF rating and equal or greater voltage will work. Greater voltage is acceptable but less is not. These are known as "radial" lead capacitors. Try mouser.com or digi-key.com for the parts. You might get lucky at radio shack but nowadays they seem to be more interested in cell phones and rc toys than serious electronics.
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family Still going strong 2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD) 2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD) both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023 2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles) 2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles) 1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh 1987 300TD sold to vstech |
#13
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Okay, replaced the caps. Should this not work, where should I look next?
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#14
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Hhhmmm, I'm assuming this worked..... Any updates?
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#15
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He hasn`t been on line since 11-18-12. guess since he didn`t get an answer to his last post, he moved on.
Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
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