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  #46  
Old 02-15-2013, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
Tell me more. You must have removed the engine for 2-5 right?
I did not remove the engine. This is what happened.

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OM603 Installing new head gasket on Sunday-san-diego-20121224-00052.jpg  
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

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  #47  
Old 02-15-2013, 09:47 PM
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85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Atl Gawga
Posts: 9,346
I was very much under the impression you had to remove the engine to get to the pistons? Details please!
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  #48  
Old 02-15-2013, 11:00 PM
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I am amateur engine guy so use caution with my work description.

#2 cylinder compression number was really bad and I pushed the piston up by removing the side sump to get access to the big end. Cylinder #2 was pitted and had a scratch on the side. You can easily remove the rod bearing bolts with the side sump removed but only on #2 cyl. I honed the cyl and replaced the rings and put the head back. The compression # is good but I was not happy with the #6 so I decided to remove the oil pan.

It was a lot of work to remove the lower oil pan. Once the pan is removed then you have access to all big ends. Remove the big end caps and push the pistons out. I honed all cylinder slightly and cleaned the ring groves. They were all coked up with carbon. I replaced the ring only if it is broken otherwise I put them back in. I sourced oil scraping rings from a company in Greece as they can custom them for me. As a result I did not buy a full set of rings and saved some money. After I put them together I did a leak down test to make sure the rings and valves are holding. The leak down rate is about 10-15% which is within spec. So I was confident to put everything back together and the car fired up OK. I strapped the timing chain so timing is not an issue. I replaced the oil pump chain while the oil pan was off. It was prone to breakage so I replaced it while I was 'in' there.

I just found out I have a loose connection at the rec/dryer pressure switch. The R134 has not leaked out so I am a happy camper. You can PM me if you want more info. I always re-use stuff and cross reference parts to save money.
__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.
Reply With Quote
  #49  
Old 02-16-2013, 08:28 AM
winmutt's Avatar
85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Atl Gawga
Posts: 9,346
I'm thinking I will give this a try. I am leery of what a 500 dollar engine will bring. On the other hand I don't know what my lower end knock is. Head has to come off anyways as its a 22. Some of my cylinders were a bit wavy, thnking I will use the hard rigid honer to round it out.

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1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42
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