Need IP removal DIY
 

Any DIY or write ups concerning the removal of the injection pump? I have OM602 2.5L 5cyl 190d. It's a non turbo manual grey market car.

Thanks

I don`t know if this will help you but for the 603. might be some similarities.

PeachPartsWiki: Injection Pump Removal

Charlie

Actually if the Fuel Injection pump Timing Locking Tool (part number 601-589-05-21-00) is installed properly you can BY HAND crank the Engine Engine Slowly until it locks.

When you pull the Fuel Injection Pump out leave the Timing/Locking Tool in place and when you put the Fuel Injection pump back in (with the new O-ring on the front) the IP will go back into the same spot; assuming you did not rotate the Engine after pulling the IP out.

Good point.

If the car ran good, I would line up the crank pulley @ 24°BTDC and pull the pump. (617's) The index marks on the front of the pump drive should be aligned with the IP housing.

I would then set the new pump to the same position and install. If it started and ran nice, we never went any further.

That's the way it was working flat rate...Robert

P.S. Do you have a pictorial on the correct use of this obscure tool????

If someone googles the Part Number or looks in the Tools at Pelican Parts they can find a pic.

This was My Fist time using the Timing Locking Pin; the 1984 has the port for it. Any one thinking about buying the Tool needs to make sure there Fuel Injection Pump has the port for it.

Fuel Injection Pump Removal with the Oil Filter still on 617.952
Fuel Injection Pump Removal with the Oil Filter still on 617.952 - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

There is Locking Pin for the older IPs with the smaller port but it is no longer sold.

@ Diesel911,

617's use this tool????

Not all of them. See the text in the Pics.

Thanks....I will know later today what year the replacement IP is...

Excellent, Thanks for the response. I'm thinking the Merc shop down the road has one for the 82+. He had the splined socket when I was messing with delivery valves.

@ Doktor Bert: Why 24* before?? Why did you do that?

it isn't all that obscure. in fact, i've never removed an ip without using a locking pin. the factory procedure works and is simple. no need to reinvent the wheel.

you don't happen to know what size the crank bolt is on my engine off hand do you? Is it an allen?

Ever work for a MBZ dealer????

It seems we seldom had the special tools and developed ways to do it without them for speed's sake....

OK I turned the crank with 27mm socket until I could see the little blade in the pump. Then I took it to 15 ATDC and loosely put the special tool in the hole and pressed and turned it with no luck. So I carefully moved the crank a few degrees and tried again. This time I got a little click (less than I was expecting) and It appears to have seated. But the pump needle is at 18 degrees instead of 15??







http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...128_193225.jpg







http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...128_193154.jpg

The variance could be due to wear or how the camshaft was originally timed....

Timing Chain Stretch and Gear Wear could account for the late timing.

This is the way I would have done it.

I would have installed the Tool all the way in (it has a spring on it so no need to push on it) making sure the screwdriver type slot on the outside of the Plunger is lined up as in the picture.

I would have rotated the Engine to 15 ATDC degrees after the Compression Stroke and leave it there.

After loosening the Fuel Injectection Pump nuts/bolts that keep it from rotating I would have rotated the Fuel Injection Pump top towards the Engine until the Tool Clicked in place and the Fuel Injection Pump could not be moved more.
Re-check the Tool to be sure the screwdriver type slot on the Exterior of the Plunger is in the postion in the picture.

If not line it up and make sure the Fuel Injection Pump is locked.
At that point I would have tightend down the nuts/bolts and the Fuel Injection Pump would have been retimed.

Also on your Emission Sticker you should have the Timing for your exact Vehicle. In the pic on my 84 300D Sticker the 2nd circled spec is the timing allowed for when I use the Timing Locking Pin (listed on the Sticker is the RIV Method but both the Locking Pin and the RIV Method use the same reference).
On my Engine I am allowed 16-14 Degrees After Top Dead Center.