Over the holiday I decided to deep six my ALDA.

It was easier than I thought. Just put a thin 27mm open ended wrench on the bottom nut and turned it off. I had heard stories of reverse threads.

My wrench was a Yamaha box end wrench with one side cut out to slip it through the space between the nut faces.

I had my fuel injection lines out.

__________________
85 Merc 300D - Unwinding 31 years of wear
86 VW TD
Mahindra Diesel
Iseki Diesel

In 2007 I didn't own a diesel.

Is there a noticable difference in performance and or exhaust smoke?

Let us know if your MPG goes down.

__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

I was going to comment on this as a possible side effect of what you were doing earlier. Generally the turbo models of this engine get better fuel milage is well known. It seems to increase their efficiency as well as power.

On the natural aspired engine I was never sure if it was the different rear end ratios only but suspected it might be more.

I posted a suggestion not long ago that a switch might be incorporated to switch the control line feed to the alda on and off at will. More compressed air seems to help turbulance or burn efficiency in the cylinders. As well as increasing power.

Hi
I can't say that I notice any smoke, I am surprised. I was expecting a black cloud. The way I understand it is that it just prevents excess fuel while the turbo is spooling up.

I have my boost turned up to 14 but I really don't use much of it.
Perhaps the transition between the bottom end and the boost phase is a bit sharper not dramatic.

I took out the boost gauge that I had and replaced it with a VDO that matches the std gauges.

More Mercedes like.

__________________
85 Merc 300D - Unwinding 31 years of wear
86 VW TD
Mahindra Diesel
Iseki Diesel

In 2007 I didn't own a diesel.

What I have always wanted to do is get the left hand side of a gasser gauge cluster with the efficiency meter and install a small boost gauge in its place. I would need to make a sticker or something with the PSI numbers on it. I'm thinking about robbing the boost gauge out of a Volvo or something and fitting that in place. That or there is the clock method. Find a boost gauge small enough that you could remove the clock and fit it in that space. Either would work well but I would rather add than subtract and add with the clock route.

__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

Did you catch the thread about installing a std boost gauge in the clock. Looked great.

I am not that motivated. I used a piece of 2" PVC and velcro on a curved plate to hold mine on to the steering column.

__________________
85 Merc 300D - Unwinding 31 years of wear
86 VW TD
Mahindra Diesel
Iseki Diesel

In 2007 I didn't own a diesel.

More mpg with a fully active turbo makes sense. I think the statement that a turbo is useless until you need more HP is incorrect. A turbocharger is an excellent fit for a diesel. It recovers exhaust energy, which adds efficiency at all power levels. That isn't true in a gas engine where at low HP, turbo boost is dissipated by the throttle plate.

I recently disabled the ARV and EGR in both my 300D's (84 & 85, both CA), so will look for an improvement. I never would have known what they were without this forum, plus the formerly mysterious ALDA valve. Thanks guys.