This is a 1980 euro 300d non A/C. I haven't used the heat and blower motor since its mostly warm here.

Today, I tried turning on heat and the knobs are very tight. After some struggling, I was able to get the blower to level I and blow a bit of heat into the car. Ordinarily, this wouldn't be an issue, but the wife has been driving it and she needs the heat. Has anyone ever experienced this before?

Thanks!

Like anything....if you don't use it, it's going to quit when you need it.
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Sounds to me like the system needs to be cleaned and lubed. I believe that entails removing the console. Not too bad of a job and there are lots of write-ups about it.

Do the defrost levers slide easily? I have one that doesn't in my '83 euro; the driver's side slides nice & smooth like it should.

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1981 300TD "The Green Lantern"
1980 300TD
1983 300D Euro "China Cat"

Yeah, the defrost levers slide easy enough. That's what I was thinking, but I wasn't sure what it entails.

I tried the search feature, but so many threads came up I wasn't sure where to start looking. If there's a particular thread that describes the process for removing the console & lubing the cables (or whatever) please direct me.

Thanks!

Yeah, the defrost levers slide easy enough. That's what I was thinking, but I wasn't sure what it entails.

I tried the search feature, but so many threads came up I wasn't sure where to start looking. I don't think I'm typing the right words to search this issue.
If there's a particular thread that describes the process for removing the console & lubing the cables (or whatever) I'd appreciate the direction.

Thanks!

There is a thread in the wiki about disassembling the entire dash on a 123 to replace the evaporator.

You won't have to go that deep but it gives all the info on how to access the back side of the control panel.

I would use a small amount of 3n1 oil or ATF for lube.

__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

That fan switch is a bugger to replace so its best to lube the cable which is usually the culprit that causes the switch to go south. I need to do mine if I can figure out how to get the end of the cable up to be able too get lube down there.

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

The heat knobs move the 2 cables that go to the water valve on the firewall.
probably not the knob assy that is the problem, most likely corrosion at the water valve end.

I would spray in some Kroil or other penetrating oil to wick down in the cable.

I have removed several heat/ac units from 240`s in PNP. the only way I can see to replace the cables (If it comes to that) is to remove the dash. they go over the the top of the heater box and through the 2 holes in the firewall.


PeachPartsWiki: Replacing the A/C Evaporator


Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

If thats the case it will be allot easier too fix than the center fan control switch.

edit, well maybe not if he has to replace the cable

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

On my 240D I was able to reach the right temp knob via the glove box and switch panel openings.

I suspect if the cluster is pulled then there might be enough access for the left temp knob.

Once those are out of the way then it hopefully it will be possible to reach the dreaded fan knob.

Each of these have an electric plug, the temp knobs are for the lights only, the fan knob is the light and the fan circuit.

Also the Bowden cables connect to a reel inside the switch. The stub coming from the reel ties into the cable going to the damper (fan) or valve (temp) with a bayonet connector inline about an inch from the switch body.

Pull off the knobs, the 3 big ones and the defrost knob(s)
Remove the big nuts behind the knobs
Carefully remove the control panel, on mine the plastic was really brittle.

The switches are held in by a couple of tabs, if you rotate the switch body from behind the tabs will release and you can pull the switch back into the space behind the panel.

While you have it apart change the bulbs in the ac panel (5 total), the FO spider, and the ac temp wheel. Also use some alcohol on a q-tip to clean the fiber ends.

__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

This is an easy way to lube cables. You don't have to use ATF, the fluid is up to you.

__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

I think if the cable from the fan switch can be lubed it would save allot of those switches. The switch gets hard to move and twisting it harder breaks the plastic "chain" on the reel inside the switch. I need to take another look at how to get the heater box end of the cable up so lube will get in.

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

I like it.

If just the end with the bag over it could be kept up perhaps the lube would wick UP the cable. Its been a while since I've been in there but the elevation is not a whole lot different.

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

This method will work on the level-as long as the cable is submerged in fluid. By putting rubber bands on the sealed bag you're pressurizing it and forcing the fluid through.

__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

Just to clarify, I must be missing something Are you saying lub can be forced through the cable which is in place (except the end with the bag) without it leaking all over, on the way to the switch? Hopefully it would free up before then.

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

I'll try and tackle it either this weekend or next. I've never gone into the console of the 300d, so I don't really know what to expect, but I'll report back once I've attempted it.

Thnaks for the info!