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  #1  
Old 12-12-2012, 01:44 PM
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I have to slam it to close it

the driver's door (w123) has to be slammed to close. is there anything adjustable either on the door or on the 'strike hole' on the body to make it better?

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Old 12-12-2012, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benhogan View Post
the driver's door (w123) has to be slammed to close. is there anything adjustable either on the door or on the 'strike hole' on the body to make it better?
Absolutely. The striker plate, if you will, is adjustable.
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Old 12-12-2012, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Air&Road View Post
Absolutely. The striker plate, if you will, is adjustable.
dang that was easy and i've lived with it for months. i will work on it tonight. thanks Mr. Larry.
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  #4  
Old 12-12-2012, 02:00 PM
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Larry, is there is procedure to adjust the striker plate?

Totally unrelated, but my 1988 BMW 535is doors are also difficult to shut. I read somewhere the striker plates can be adjusted. I'm just wondering if there's some special procedure that needs to be followed (which might be applicable to my car also). Thanks!
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  #5  
Old 12-12-2012, 02:39 PM
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I don't know of any striker adjustment procedure beyond looking, moving and trying. It can try your patience sometimes. For the OP having to slam it, the plate is too far in toward the center of the car. You might start by loosening the screws and moving the plate directly outward a small amount and then TIGHTEN the screws before trying it. Tighten them after every adjustment before you try it, so that it won't move in case you have found that sweet spot.

Some patience and you can get it right.
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  #6  
Old 12-12-2012, 02:55 PM
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Door strikers are a reeeal pain to adjust but it can be done and its worth it.

Small amounts of adjustment are in the 1/64 // 1/32 range. Itty bitty.

If you have to slam it, the plate needs to move out closer to the edge.
If the door edge sticks out when closed, it needs to move in towards the seat.
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Old 12-12-2012, 02:57 PM
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Good info - thanks!
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  #8  
Old 12-12-2012, 03:14 PM
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WAIT just a minute.....

Usually if a door has to be slammed to shut it.....it means the little rubber edge on the face plate has worn off. Check the face plate before you proceed. Compare it to one on a door that shuts easily --- note: passenger side and driver's side do NOT interexchange.

ALSO.....beware: the allen bolts holding the face plate to the body are usually torqued very tight. You want to be sure you have the allen wrench/socket in there good before attempting to loosen. Stripped out allen heads are no fun.

I've sold good, used ones in the past to lots of forum members.
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Old 12-12-2012, 05:33 PM
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it is set as far out as it will go. still no not perfect.

daw two- i noticed the lower part of the rubber under the hole is all worn out. that might be the problem.

pm sent
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:13 PM
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That "rubber edge"

Quote:
Originally Posted by daw_two View Post
Usually if a door has to be slammed to shut it.....it means the little rubber edge on the face plate has worn off. Check the face plate before you proceed. Compare it to one on a door that shuts easily --- note: passenger side and driver's side do NOT interexchange.
Has this little "rubber edge" been addressed in the forums before? My 300D has 3 of them missing; where the one is remaining; that door closes easily.

Can these be obtained? Are they a separate part? Does anyone have pictures/illustrations of this part? TIA.
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  #11  
Old 12-12-2012, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daw_two View Post
Usually if a door has to be slammed to shut it.....it means the little rubber edge on the face plate has worn off. Check the face plate before you proceed. Compare it to one on a door that shuts easily --- note: passenger side and driver's side do NOT interexchange.
When I saw the thread title I was going to post the same thing. I got my 300TD last year and one door has never closed without seriously slamming it with at least one other door or window open (less resistance I guess). I could see that the plastic bit was broken. I finally got around to replacing the striker with a good used one from the junkyard and it closes like all the others now. I put it back in the exact same place as the old one, so definitely not an adjustment issue.

-Rog
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  #12  
Old 12-12-2012, 07:23 PM
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the ramps as I call them, that rubber bit. is not available anywhere I know of.
I want to make a mold and build a set from pourable urethane...

anybody wanna chip in on a mold kit/urethane mix?
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  #13  
Old 12-12-2012, 07:44 PM
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New Weatherseals - Slamming the doors to shut them!

On my 300D I installed 4 new door seals.

The old ones were cracked, brittle, there was some wind noise and in the car wash water would come in. (worn out and deflated door seals)

The new weather seals, compared to the old ones are plump and pliable. This caused the issue of having to slam the doors (all of them) where I did not have to do that before. My strikers are in great shape so I'll probably move them outboard a little. The upside is that the car is quiet (no wind noise) and dry! This makes a wonderful improvement in the cabin noise reduction too.
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  #14  
Old 12-12-2012, 10:26 PM
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Go to the yard and take the part off any MBZ of that era. The pieces as installed are side specific and are frequently good except on the drivers door.

You can take them apart and install the plastic bumper on any door on any side. I paid .50 each the last time I went. Other times they have been free.

You need an allen wrench 5mm I think but take the set because I'm estimating - sometimes more accurate than guessing. Any way, the screw heads are aluminum. A couple have had stripped heads and come out easily with an easy out.
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  #15  
Old 12-12-2012, 11:35 PM
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Check out this thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/313329-w123-door-striker-repair-kit.html

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