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  #1  
Old 12-21-2012, 01:35 PM
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'82 240D glow plug/relay issues

I've just added this 240D, and it's finally cold enough here in the C to bring all the cold start issues to light. Here's what I've done so far. Fresh battery, all new Bosch glows, exchanged the relay from my '83 which starts flawlessly in the cold. Diesel purge and all new filters. Tightened alt. belt and checked function with the multimeter, all good. Checked "new" relay with the meter per dieselgiants excellent tutorial, all checks out, fuse good.
The glow light on the dash works (along with that annoying buzzer), battery/chg light is on, but I don't think i'm getting any juice to the glows. can't really here the "click" come on or off, and it definately doesn't fire right up.
Anything i'm missing?

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  #2  
Old 12-21-2012, 01:51 PM
Inna-propriate-da-vida
 
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How confident are you in the connection from harness to glow plug?

That was where I had issues with my SD.
After I pulled the fuel rails and was able to get easy access to the top of the GP, I discovered that what I thought was tight was anything but.
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  #3  
Old 12-21-2012, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubadxx View Post
...but I don't think i'm getting any juice to the glows.
Since you have a multimeter, maybe you should confirm that you do (or do not) have voltage at the glow plugs.
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Old 12-21-2012, 01:55 PM
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I just replaced all the glows, and am pretty, prettty confident that i got all the little 8mm nuts tightened onto the plugs. Like I said, I don't hear the relay clicking on. How do I check the voltage at the plug? Ignition on, + lead of the meter to the plug at the 8mm nut?
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  #5  
Old 12-21-2012, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qwerty View Post
Since you have a multimeter, maybe you should confirm that you do (or do not) have voltage at the glow plugs.
Use the multimeter to follow the power.

I was so certain that I had gotten all those little bugger nuts on tight that I purchased new glow plugs. Of course mine had been in for a year, so there was time for them to loosen, arc, and corrode enough to create problems.
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On some nights I still believe that a car with the fuel gauge on empty can run about fifty more miles if you have the right music very loud on the radio. - HST

1983 300SD - 305000
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Old 12-21-2012, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubadxx View Post
How do I check the voltage at the plug? Ignition on, + lead of the meter to the plug at the 8mm nut?
And neg lead to ground.
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  #7  
Old 12-21-2012, 02:06 PM
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Did you check the fuse electrically with the meter, or just visually? Those bar fuses commonly stress crack such that you can't see the crack and it looks good, but will not carry heavy current.

Best way to check it is with your voltmeter, connect the black lead to ground and connect the red lead to the output side of the fuse. Read the voltage while the ignition is on and it should be glowing. This way if it is a crack that will not flow heavy current, you will be checking it while it is trying to flow that current. You should see battery voltage on BOTH ends of the fuse.

Hope this helps.
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  #8  
Old 12-21-2012, 02:29 PM
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Last year I scrapped the original MB relay for a standard $6 FOMOCO starter relay and controlled that using a $3 momentary push button switch. Heavy cable to an inline 50 amp fuse, then to the relay, wires from the glow plugs to the other side of the relay.

Now I can just glow the plugs as long as I need depending on the temp, works great.
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  #9  
Old 12-21-2012, 02:35 PM
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I swapped the relay with a functional one, from my other car which starts up fine. Now i get no juice to the glows. checked the fuse, i have battery current on both sides with ign. on. I heard the click while i was checking the current with the meter?! what's up with that? Will check voltage at the GPs again.
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  #10  
Old 12-22-2012, 10:21 AM
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Checked the voltage at the GPs just now, ignition on, 10-11 VDC on all plugs. Still a very rough start, though. GP light comes on, no flickering, goes off after 10-15 sec. Power to the glows for about 30 sec, i suppose, cause they then drop to zero when the relay kicks off, but i still don't hear a good click.
Sounds like i need a starter as well. a coupla cranks resulted in the whine, but has good cranking otherwise.
What else?
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  #11  
Old 12-22-2012, 11:08 AM
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Ohm out the plugs while unplugged from the relay.
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Old 12-22-2012, 12:26 PM
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I had what I thought was a dying battery, turned out a new starter solved the issue. Your starter may be a problem, maybe a local auto parts store can do a stress test.
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  #13  
Old 12-22-2012, 02:25 PM
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You can ohm test the gp's from the plug.

Negative lead to ground. I just a jumper and go to the neg of the battery.
Pop the larger connector on the gp relay base.
All of your gp connections are right there.
Short your meter leads on the lowest resistance scale and remember your reading.
On your meters lowest resistance scale check each gp.
Reading should be below 1 ohm when you subtract the shorted lead reading.

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