Merry X-mas!

Well today for a little holiday cheer I decided to replace the leaking o-rings sealing the delivery valves on my IP outside in the freezing snow. I am a little concerned because the valves holders seemed to be on there really tight. Like I really had to use a lot of force to break them. They are only supposed to be torqued to 35nm. Of course they probably hadn't been touched in quite a while, the old o-rings were crap. You think theres possibility for any damage to the IP?

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'87 300TDT 150k

If your Engine was running OK before even if they were overtightened I doubt if you will be having any issue.

Replace the O-rings and see what happens.

After that keep track of your Crankcase Oil Level. If your Oil level keeps increasing then I would suspect the Elements are not seating properly in the Bottom of the IP Housing and leaking Fuel through the Injection Pump and into the Crankcase.
Even then there can be one other cause of Diesel Fuel in the Crankcase.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Alright, so today I put everything back together, cranked for a good 30 seconds, no start, loosed the lines on the injectors, no fuel, cranked another 30 seconds and another, nothing. Drained the battery and have it recharging right now.

Why is it so hard to get fuel to come out? I have taken the hard lines off before and never had this problem. Is it because I had the delivery valve holders off and additional air got in the IP?

What is the procedure for starting up? Should I hold the accelerator all the way down and how long should I crank?

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'87 300TDT 150k

This is probably a lot easier on the 123's with the hand primer huh?

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'87 300TDT 150k

And one more thing: Should I just remove the lines at the DV holders and bleed the air out that way rather than bleed it though the lines at the injectors? Is is possible to fill the IP with fuel through the small hole at the top of the DV holders? Probably not....

Appreciate any help, thanks.

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'87 300TDT 150k

No, somewhat like Bleeding Brake Lines; you want the Air to go out of the end of the Tubing that is the away from the Fuel Injection Pump.
When the Air gets trapped in the Hard Lines that the problem escalates.

If you are troubleshooting and just want to know if Fuel is coming out of the Fuel Injection Pump or not removing the Hard Lines and watching it spurt out of the Fuel Injection Pump can be faster as you do not need to wait for the Fuel to fill the hard Lines before you know if Fuel is coming out. It is also messier.
But, you still end up having to bleed the Air out of the Hard Lines.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Finally got fuel to come out of the hard lines after draining the battery twice. Started right up and is running beautifully. No leaks from the delivery valves anymore. If anybody is doing this job, Parrot of Doom's DIY is very helpful. The cheapest socket I found was from Zdmak, $45 with shipping.

When torquing the DV holders down I torqued them to 30nm and backed off a 1/4 turn twice and the torqued to 35nm. Since then I have read a post by whunter where he says to only let pressure off the torque wrench (don't loosen) before torquing again or else the copper washers will not seal correctly. I cant really see how this would affect the washers and anyway it seems fine for now, so lets hope I don't have to do this again. The MB dealership only had four of the washers so I only replaced four, although I read that its not really necessary to replace them at all.

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'87 300TDT 150k

The correct procedure is 30 Nm > loosen > 30 Nm > loosen > 35 Nm.

I got corrected. The above procedure only applies to the non-turbo engines

W124 turbodiesels have a single step of 35 Nm.

Oil the O ring.