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Getting it clean for the install
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Not perfect but much cleaner
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And another
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This can get rough on the old knuckles
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And one more
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The engine
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We're all jealous of that and wondering how long it will last.
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Ain't that the truth
I hope it will last for a good while considering that I replaced every oil gasket on the engine block except for the injection pump gasket. Just got too lazy to do it I guess.
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Ok. How exactly did you get it that clean?
- Peter. |
I'll tell but this may not be for everyone
Very careful use of oven cleaner and a good degreaser. You can't let the oven cleaner sit too long or it may cause paint damage. 10 minutes is long enough to cut the grease. Keep it off of aluminum parts as best as you can. I actually cleaned the engine with oven cleaner but one has to rub the aluminum down thoroughly to remove the oven cleaner. Leave it on too long and you have a corroded mess. It will come off but it will take more work.
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No no no no !! Not even good enough ! You need practice and I have just the .952 for you to improve your skills on.
Let me know what day next week is good for you to swing by... |
If you use genuine or good OEM quality gaskets and seals, hoses, etc., it should stay clean as long as when it was new.
Oven cleaner eh, never tried that. |
Your engine bay looks great, and appears the original paint. Usually the sheet metal is rusted underneath the brake MC from leaking DOT 3 fluid. I use silicone in mine. I also had a big, white corrosion mess on the firewall behind the battery that ate thru the paint.
I put a 5 cyl turbo engine in my 85 last summer. Yours looks many times less complicated. Seems like the designers added new things wily-nilly, like AC tubes that snake all over the engine, over-complicated oil cooling, EGR clutter, ... |
Thanks y'all!
I will be removing the battery and a few of the wires and such to give it a little more detail. I plan to get underneath and spray with oven cleaner too. Kinda like a clean slate. Since my daughter will be driving this car I want to be able to catch any leaks as quickly as possible. I also can't stand working on an engine covered in crud.
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Looks great, like a new car.
I detailed my engine bay after I steam cleaned it first. Used some rags with some wax and grease remover or gas will work. Did small sections at a time, then finished it off with Mc Guires Wax and paint cleaner. One area that never gets cleaned, is back under the MC and Brake Booster. I had mine out when I was replacing the Tortion Bar and Bushings on the 85. I found a bit of rust starting in a seam back in the corner. cleaned it up, POR`d the seam and sealed it real good with POR Por Patch. Charlie |
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Cheers. |
Nice work!
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Again, Thanks!
Y'all are making my head swell with the nice compliments.
Once I am finished with my daughter's car then I plan to remove the engine and trans from my '82 240D. It has a small oil leak from the head gasket at the rear of the engine. I plan to replace the gasket and while the head is off I hope to have it checked and repaired if necessary. I am going to replace all the gaskets on the engine block and give both the engine and engine bay a really good detailing. While the AC in both cars works I plan to upgrade all the o-rings and flush the systems. Both systems work but they also have slow leaks. If I could unload our 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan then I would like to find a nice wagon to haul the family around. The van is nice for the six of us but I want to get out of debt. I love the wagons and wouldn't mind a w124 wagon. I loved my '87 SDL. It gave me great service even with the #14 head. I wish I hadn't sold it but I did. She was a beauty!!! Just dreaming out loud. Kevin |
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