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#16
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I welded mine (flat strap across the arm, dropping the shock 2") with a lincon 115V unit that constantly tripped the garage's circuit. It held up around 10k (When I finally scrapped the ol' girl) Clean everything before welding, and use gas. Run it on the hot side of the dial, but be sure to test it on the broken flange first to see if you will be burning through.
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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment |
#17
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I created the same situation on mine two years ago.
I replace the rear shocks, and managed to lose 1 bolt. Went to Ace Hardware and bought a nice shiny silver one and installed it. 2 month later I became alarmed by the loud thumping in my rear end (car, not my arse). Took a look and the Ace bolt was still shiny, but now headless. Unfortunately the stress created from only 1 point of attachment resulted in the remaining bold, A Arm, and shock breaking free. I took stock and determined to replace the A Arm, until I discovered the price, and how incredibly difficult it would be to actually remove two old ones to replace mine. Finally, I took my car to a farm implement dealer, who dropped the wheel end of the A arm, and welded a beautiful cradle into the formerly messed up A arm, creating a secure attachment for this and any new shocks I want to install. Cost me $45 for the work, and most likely kept my car from the pick and pull. I heartily recommend that you consider adding to the current A arm, instead of replacing the existing A arm. Just my opinion! |
#18
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Here are some pictures I meant to post a few days ago. I finally got to upload them.
I took some close up shots of the broken piece. 1982 Mercedes 300SD Rear Lower Control Arm - Imgur
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out. Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability! (4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!) 82 300SD 145k 89 420SEL 210k 89 560SEL 118k 90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010 90 560SEL 154k 91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k 93 190E 3.0 235k 93 300E 195k |
#19
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If this were mine, I'd go to my local bolt shop and buy 2 washers (recently purchased some 3" OD and they had larger on hand) with the OD of the indented flat area. Most likely the ID would have to the be drilled out larger to match the current opening for the shock. The idea would be to sandwich the flat area with the broken bolt tab between the 2 washers. Clamp the washers together and drill the 2 bolt holes for the shock mount. Weld 2 nuts to the top washer. Clean the broken flange really well. If I couldn't access the top of the arm to position the top washer I'd cut a slot in the bottom flange opposite the torn spot and slide the washer in from below. Drill a few hole in the bottom washer and arm flange to allow spot welds up to the top washer. Bolt the washers in place without the shock and spot weld it all together. Coat to prevent rust. Install shock and call it good.
Good luck!
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You can't always get what you want, but if you try sometime you just might find you get what you need. |
#20
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Quote:
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#21
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BUT WAIT. There is always McMaster-Carr. So basically, two of those. Drill press two holes in them for the bolts, welt appropriate size nuts on top plate...grind out inner diameter so shock fits... Sammich them to the existing control arm. Tack weld them to each other? Tack weld them to the arm--or no? And call it a day?
__________________
Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out. Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability! (4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!) 82 300SD 145k 89 420SEL 210k 89 560SEL 118k 90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010 90 560SEL 154k 91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k 93 190E 3.0 235k 93 300E 195k |
#22
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I can understand the desire to fix things and I know this is "only" a SD and doesn't go too fast - so we're not talking about super cars - but a shock letting go at an inconvenient moment could cause an inconvenient twitch couldn't it?
You've done some lovelly work on your other trailing arms why not replace this broken one with a good one? I know I'm a bit of a fuss pot with this kind of stuff but safety first! Seeing what bad trailing arms look like I'd hazard a guess that there's more weakness in that trailing arm than just the bit that has gone. Why risk it?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#23
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Oh and as for the welder question - I think you might be at a thickness of steel that would require edge preparation to ensure that you got adequate penetration. "How to weld" books say to file a V shape profile at the joint and lay several beads on top of each other (cleaning before each bead).
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#24
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Check your local bolt supply house as I bought 16 of those exact washers locally last week for a project of mine.
I would clean the area to be samiched between the 2 washers and drill it out to match the bottom washer so that the spot weld merged all 3 pieces of metal. Personally, I think this repair would be stronger than original. You could also weld the bottom washer around the perimeter but I think it would probably be overkill myself. Army is one of the most knowledgeable posters to this forum and I would always give strong consideration to his positions. To me, a broken shock on the rear isn't a catastrophic failure such as a broken ball joint. I think you state the car has been driving with the shock loose. I wouldn't think if it broke loose again after your repair that the result would be any different from the current driveablity or level of safety. If you're comfortable with that then go for it. If not, get a replacement arm.
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You can't always get what you want, but if you try sometime you just might find you get what you need. |
#25
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You can't always get what you want, but if you try sometime you just might find you get what you need. |
#26
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What I think I'll do is take the spring out and assess the condition of the upper portion of the arm. Tap it here and there looking for weaknesses. If I don't find any and it just seems that the shock mount area failed due to stress and some minor rusting--which from the pictures seems that it might have been the case... MAYBE. If the arm looks out and seems OK I'll go ahead with the washer repair if not, i'll be getting an arm off someone on here or locally if possible.
__________________
Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out. Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability! (4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!) 82 300SD 145k 89 420SEL 210k 89 560SEL 118k 90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010 90 560SEL 154k 91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k 93 190E 3.0 235k 93 300E 195k |
#27
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I just don't want to hear that someone has ended up in a ditch like his (user)name sake. After all there's the well being of a real car at stake here - not some crappy little Porsche speedster! I am a self confessed fuss pot for this sort of stuff but it still remains to be a possible stability problem that might occur at an inconvenient moment.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#28
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__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#29
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As usual you are on deck and I stand corrected in my termonalogy - plug weld.
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You can't always get what you want, but if you try sometime you just might find you get what you need. |
#30
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My, my, my! Stretch you have certainly come a long way in your welding abilities. It seems as though it was only yesterday you were learning how to braze sheet metal. Sigh, brings a tear to my eye when I realize how quickly you've grown.
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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.” ― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now |
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