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  #1  
Old 01-14-2013, 02:50 PM
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How difficult is it to replace this connector?

This accordion connector has a crack, I had a small weld put on it that did not hold. It seems like I could disconnect the air intake and remove the smaller (right) part of the exaust manifold and this accordion connector as well as the connecting tube should slide out? Or am I missing something?
Also I have a heck of the time trying to find a part number for this accordion tube, any help would be appreciated.

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How difficult is it to replace this connector?-img_4293.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 01-14-2013, 03:13 PM
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part # 117-142-01-59. It is under < $25.

How difficult I do not know. I need to replace it also. Other can chime in.
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  #3  
Old 01-14-2013, 06:21 PM
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There is a how to for this, and yes you can get away with just pulling the smaller half of the exhaust manifold and cut down a new exhaust manifold gasket so you get a good seal when you put it back together.


This is somewhat common in the sense I've seen it happen more than a few times but its not like it happens to a lot of cars. As conflicting of a statement as that is.


Edit, I'm having a heck of a time finding the write up for it, ill keep looking
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  #4  
Old 01-14-2013, 06:25 PM
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There used to be pics,

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  #5  
Old 01-14-2013, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselPaul View Post
There used to be pics,
Awesome! Thanks!
One thing I am confused about, write up talks about removing studs..I assume manifold studs, why is stud removal needed, doesent the exaust manifold just go over the studs and is held in place with bolts? Cant I just slide the manifold out once the bolts are removed?
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:57 PM
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That's a good question. The problem is, in order to put the new coupling on you have to be able to slide the front manifold section back into the coupling, there is not enough room to get the coupling in between the two sections if you are installing the front section over the studs. You can get the front section off without removing the studs, by cutting the joint, but you can't get the new one on with the studs in place.

The coupling looks like it will compress, but it is actually quite stiff and will not give at all.

One addition I can make - if all the studs come out with the nuts, you will not have to cut the coupling, you'll be able to slide the front section forward and remove it basically the reverse of the installation described, so leave the cutting until after you get the studs/nuts off, so you know where you stand. Cutting is not trivial, this is stainless and it is tough, so you will need a good cutoff wheel.

The stud extractor you will need is an 8mm, NAPA carries them special order, #41762. You will probably bugger up the studs, but they are readily available, so don't worry about that.
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  #7  
Old 01-14-2013, 08:34 PM
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A quick fix would be to gob some exhaust goop on it and wrap with fiberglass, then put on hose clamps.
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simpler=Better View Post
A quick fix would be to gob some exhaust goop on it and wrap with fiberglass, then put on hose clamps.
Hmm, that's an idea. I wander if that would hold, I assume exaust goop will harden from the heat and seal the leak, hi temp fiberglass should hold it with an existing clamps on it. Maybe worth a try before going ahead with the repair that will eat up entire day easy. Has anyone tried anything similar to this?
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnS View Post
That's a good question. The problem is, in order to put the new coupling on you have to be able to slide the front manifold section back into the coupling, there is not enough room to get the coupling in between the two sections if you are installing the front section over the studs. You can get the front section off without removing the studs, by cutting the joint, but you can't get the new one on with the studs in place.

The coupling looks like it will compress, but it is actually quite stiff and will not give at all.

One addition I can make - if all the studs come out with the nuts, you will not have to cut the coupling, you'll be able to slide the front section forward and remove it basically the reverse of the installation described, so leave the cutting until after you get the studs/nuts off, so you know where you stand. Cutting is not trivial, this is stainless and it is tough, so you will need a good cutoff wheel.

The stud extractor you will need is an 8mm, NAPA carries them special order, #41762. You will probably bugger up the studs, but they are readily available, so don't worry about that.
That's what I was afraid of Thanks!

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