On my W123 300TD, is it possible to access/replace/repair the oil pump from the sump? The vehicle has suddenly failed to produce oil pressure once warmed up even mildly.

Immediately prior to this fairly sudden issue, it maintained a very healthy and stable pressure. It is my hope that the pressure regulator on the pump fell off or something silly and that it is accessible without engine removal, but I figured it was best to ask about this before going to the trouble of a face full of oil.

Better to put a pressure gauge directly fed from the engine first. All too easily could be a faulty pressure sensor or something.

I do need to install a proper gauge under the hood, but it is at least fairly obvious that as it stands there really is very little oil pressure.

I'd pull the cluster and look for oil seeping around under there... the bellows fail on the stock gauge often.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

oh, and your username makes me think you'll love my OD post from holloween...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

It is a fun costume, but I really do have a problem with the actual oil pressure.

If anyone can tell me anything helpful about accessing the oil pump on the w123 300td, I'd be much appreciative.

I think you ought to drop the Pan small pan an have a look. At the same time you can inspect the Oil that comes out and the bottom of the Pan for Metal Fragments that might indicate Bearings Failed.
With the small Pan off you can look at the Oil Pump Drive Chain and the Chain Tensioner.

someone had the Pick Up Housing that holds the Screen come loose and I guess it sucked Air when the Oil level was lowere then where it seperated.

On the older models the Oil Pump Pressure Relief Valve Spring and the Valve itself had issues.

On the other end take a look at the Bottom of that Tube that is attached to the Oil Filter Cap. Besides the 2 O-ring inside of there is a Spring loaded Valve.

Find some way to get inside there and see if that Valve is not being held open.
The bypass Oil that goes through that portion of the Filter goes direcly back to the Oil Pan.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I'm assuming that you have a turbo OM617 and not a non turbo station wagon (TD) - if however you have a non turbo OM617 I have lots of pictures that I can post up.

The oil pump is different on a turbo you see.

Looking at chapter 01-310 in the FSM (for the turbo) it doesn't look too impossible to remove the oil pump in-situ though.

Do you have access to the FSM?

Can any OM617a owner confirm if the oil pump can be removed via the lower oil pan?

I know you can do it on a non turbo (if you have magic imp like fingers)

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

He has a 1985 300TD when you go to his profile. If it was made for the US Market it has a Turbo.
I think it Might be Possible to Pull the Turbo Oil Pump out but I don't think you can put it back and Torque it.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Turbo, yes. Well, I did dig up a copy of the FSM. Got so spun up with everything going on that I forgot it even existed. Taking a look at 01-310 was certainly the nightmare I feared, but it does sound at least worth taking the far more easily dealt with lower pan off to take a look at the bits that are accessible. Thank you both very much for straightening me out a bit. I'll give a heads up what madness I find down there.

Although their web site isn't very good www.startekinfo have given access to several FSMs - so next time you can't find that pesky CD...

...in anticipation to your next question - removal of the upper oil pan on an OM617 with the engine in-situ would be a really fiddly job; I'm not sure if it is possible without almost removing the engine anyway...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I got a moment to pull the pan the other day. That pump doesn't look like it has any chance of coming out the bottom. Only trouble was the oil pickup rubber had broken so I went ahead and replaced it. Pan was clean. An oil change (last one was ~2500 miles ago) helped a bit. The old oil had a burnt smell to it. I'm out of time for working on it anymore, moving soon to take a job where I'll not have garage anymore. So, this is it for updates on my continuing adventures in restoration.