I recall you were going to leave the rear mounting bracket off the injection pump to make timing adjustment easier. Did you do that on the super pump? Hope this is not viewed as another sharp shooter question.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Yup, that's me. Let's not hi-jack this thread with your sharp shooting and ill advised commentary. Many folks have had their fill. I am sure you have plenty of time on your hands to focus on more important things.

Trying to earn yourself an infraction?

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

This seems to me to be a fair question. I'm not running the rear bracket - in fact, the "M" pump doesn't seem to have accommodations for one (edit - and Goran didn't send one with the pump). The bracket from the "MW" pump certainly won't fit though I could build a bracket but like I said there doesn't seem to be any bolt holes in the rear of the "M".

BTW - when I pulled the "MW" there were no signs of anything bad happening as a result of running a season (and riding several thousand miles on the trailer) w/o the rear bracket. I'll suggest that using the rear bracket would no doubt be a good thing, especially on a street-driven car, but may not be essential.

Dan

Out of curiosity I did a little googling for "M pump rear bracket" and found this thread on Benzworld On what mb diesels did the m-pump come on? - Mercedes-Benz Forum

M pumps does have a rear mount bracket per post # 9, copied below for your reading pleasure

"The m-pump was on grey market imported non-turbo models only for the W123. Every factory imported model came with an MW-pump.

Putting one on the 300D requires blocking the MW-pump's oil supply line since the M-pump gets its oil supply from the timing gear bearings through it's nose. You will need either the euro injection line set or the stock lines will have to be bent to match the new port locations. The rear support bracket is also different and should come with the pump. The center port of the VCV will need to be blocked and the transmission modulator line attached to the left port. Everything else will be bolt-on.

Installing it on the turbo engine will make it produce only 88hp. If you want more you'll have to manually turn up the internal governor settings."

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I wish that thread had a pic of the rear bracket. Looking at my pump "M" I don't know where they would have bolted it onto the pump body. Either way I'll live w/o rear bracket but as stated I'm sure it would be a good thing especially on a street-driven car.

Dan

Another cut & paste from BS:

The shut-off system is in and working - I think. It depends on whether what I think is a lever that can make it shut off in fact does. We'll see.

Here's the air supply and solenoid valve. It took some messing but I finally found a local vendor who had a valve that can do the job and they have a guy on staff who was willing to work with an amateur like me 'till I got it to work as I'm used to working with motorized ball valves which are a different deal. This valve actually has more ports than needed for this task but it was in stock and can be configured to do the job, and it is. Remove power and the cylinder (next pic) actuates and stops the engine. Apply power, which kills the air to the cylinder, and the cylinder retracts (it's spring loaded to it's short configuration) so the engine can run. I think.





(sorry for the fuzzy pic) And here with the cylinder in the "No Power" (air on) position so the engine won't run. My grubby little finger is pointing to the air cylinder. Note that the ram is pushing a lever all the way rearward. When I actuate the stock vacuum shutoff it pulls that lever back so I'm assuming that pushing the lever back will shut down the engine. I'll know in a day or two.




I cranked the engine and got oil pressure so that seems OK. There seems to be fuel from the tank to the lift pump so that's at least a start. I'll need help to to bleed the injector lines so I'm hoping to get on that tomorrow.

Dan

IT'S ALIVE!!!!!

A friend and I made a stab at bleeding the air out of the injection system on Sunday and although we DID get fuel to flow into the lift pump (there's a clear fuel filter right before the lift pump) and we had fuel flowing out of the pump return line we were not able to get fuel flow at the injector lines. I messed with it today and finally decided to do what I did the first time - I started the engine and gave a squirt of starting fluid. After several tries it finally caught and settled right into a nice idle. When I blip the throttle there's significant bleak smoke which probably means the pump is throwing a ton more fuel in there as it should.

I let it cool a little then got in the truck and did a glow plug cycle and tried starting it in the normal fashion. Fired right up! Way groovy. Also, after I fixed a small leak the pneumatic shutoff system works PERFECTLY - another win!

There are a few more things to fix (mostly a slow leak in the inlet fitting on the left front ShockWave) but before we tow to the track there's nothing major. So I should bump my record significantly. Anyone have a big turbo they aren't using?

I'm a happy guy!!

Dan

Sounds good Dan!

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Well, I now officially have more engine than I have clutch. Everything was groovy on the dyno up to about 3500 RPM but when the turbo kicked it it just blew thru the clutch and revved to 5300 or so. So far I've had zero luck finding a performance clutch on the Interwebs but given that Diesel Mercedes of this vintage get built up SOMEONE must have found a fix for this. I have a note off to Goran to see if he has a connection as I'm sure he might.

I did observe 20 PSI boost which I've never seen. I'll roll that back a tad. I didn't take ice water for the intercooler and it got hot quickly so I'm sure that the intercooler will now make a difference which it did not with the old pump.

The dyno shop, sadly, has gone to a DynoJet so the only way to operate the damn thing is to run WOR (wide open rack) - you can't run a steady state and load it to find the highest HP at that speed. So a slipping clutch precludes getting HP numbers. What I COULD tell was that I had a TON more power, hence driving thru the clutch.

DOES ANYONE HAVE A HANDLE ON A PERFORMANCE CLUTCH for an '83 240D?

I can run at the track by rolling into the rack rather than stomping the pedal to the floor so I'll continue with plans to attend. I should be able to calculate HP from top speed once I have track numbers.

All in all, disappointing but I did learn some stuff.

Dan

What do you need a dyno result for? Just take it to the track and ease it up to speed. I think you can get a mild competition grade disc for it like I bought for my autocross car and use the stock pp. That might help some.

Is your stock disc smoked completely?

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Remember, I did dyno work for a living for 31 1/2 years and I GET dynos! The idea is to learn as much as possible at the dyno (about a 15 minute tow) rather than get to the track (a day and a half tow) and find out that I have some major issue. So for a relatively small cost I learned that the clutch is iffy.

No, not totally fried. It still drives like normal until the turbo HITS like it never did before. It's almost like a 2 stroke "coming on the pipe" if you've ever experienced that. I'm pretty sure I can finess it as the truck gains speed.

I intend to do a softer run at the track and see what I can get out of Mutt - I expect a LOT more than last year!

Dan

I see. I didn't remember (if you previously said it) that you were a dyno expert. Makes sense with all the super advanced work you have been demonstrating on Mutt.

I got my special disc at Summitt racing...about 110 dollars. I already had a stout racing PP.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I finished up a nifty job on Mutt today though I still have to install it (another cut n paste from BangShift):


I'll add a bit more for the Mercedes forum as the BS guys already know this: The steering linkage on the S-10 runs behind the Mercedes lower pan. I had done some modification to the previous pan and it sort of worked but the linkage (drag link and tie rod ends) contacted the pan when the wheels were only slightly turned. As I'm installing the new turbo I had to pull the lower pan to get the turbo drain back tube into the upper pan properly so this seemed like the time to make a new pan designed to give more clearance.



Just when you thought I wasn't doin' nothin'......

Built a new pan for Mutt to get the pan further out of the way of the steering linkage. I needed more clearance from the pan and I'll also raise the engine a tad which ought to let the wheels turn more allowing better maneuvering in the pits. The new pan is all gas welded - or, a poor man's TIG. I'm pretty happy with it. I leaked checked it with water before taking it to Area 51 and it took a bit but I stomped out all the leaks.

Be right back - I have to resize the pics from my new iPhone.....
​​
Success!

The round part clears the oil pump pickup (not easily modified) and was made from a length of thick exhaust tubing. The pan is more or less 14 gage steel (the German equivalent) and I had my metal supplier cut me a piece and bend it on the press brake as I figured I'd have a heck of a time bending that - $6.00 (steel, the cut, and the bend) well spent. Then I cut away everything that didn't look like the hole I'd made in the pan. Took a little figuring but I think I have something here. I got my fitup close enough that much of this was fusion welded (what we called it in the olden days when we didn't need filler rod). If you look at the weld along the bottom of the pan (the top in the bottom pic as the pan is upside down) you'll see a pretty tight little bead. I also welded from the inside which seemed to have made a pretty leak-free weld joint.

I clamped to a hunk of 1/4" steel plate as I welded it to keep it fairly flat and that seem to have worked though it does have a tad of a bend. The pan has a gillion screws in it so I think it'll lay down flat.

Dan

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I didn't read it yet but have been wonder how you were doing.