I'm Back! S-10 OM617 Project - Page 6 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

mach4 · #76 03-23-2013, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dan Stokes

These are the powder coated parts that came back a couple of days ago. I asked for "as close to polished aluminum as possible" and I think they got it pretty well. If you guys are considering having parts done you should be aware that they can't completely remove all traces of 200K+ miles of Diesel gunk and there will likely be traces of oil that will make the finish look sort of hammertone. I have just a couple of spots but they are there. It doesn't effect durability.

I'd be more that a little concerned with powercoating (or painting) the inside of the oil pan and the inside of the valve cover. Powder coating can and does peel off, and if the surface isn't clean enough to not leave any "hammertone" anomalies it's probably safe to say it's not adhering as well as it should. Any material that flakes off will get caught in the oil screen and enough could be catastrophic.

I'd also be concerned with powder coating on the inside of the rear seal cutout. Powder coat is pretty thick and that might create some adverse effects on the seal.

When I powercoat engine items, I always mask off anything that is not absolutely external to the to the engine.

Maybe you did do this and your goal of "as close to aluminum as possible" was achieved beyond your wildest imagination, in which case my critique should be seen as compliment!

ROLLGUY · #77 03-24-2013, 01:41 AM

As far as powder coating, I will add this as well: I have been told that everywhere that a fastener is, will loosen up eventually. It is suggested to remove (or mask before hand) the PC where the fastener tightens up against the part. It may not be a problem with the VC, but the upper pan may get loose after a while. I was going to PC my A/C brackets, but was told that it would be a bad idea. I went with paint on the plates, and cad plating on all the other parts. You may have to make some kind of piloted end mill to just take off the PC everywhere a fastener tightens up on a part. However, this may not be as big of a problem with aluminum. Someone with more knowledge can chime in on this. Also as suggested above, the PC needs to come off where the seal contacts the aluminum.

Dan Stokes · #78 03-24-2013, 08:43 AM

No powder coat on any of the interior surfaces. They blasted the interior of the pan and cam cover so that might look like it's coated - but 't'ain't.

This shop also plugged all the holes so no coating there. From my experience, if you use washers between the coating and the fastener it doesn't chip. The rotation of the fastener head on the coating seems to be what does the dastardly deed. I suppose if you overtorqued the pan bolts you could break it out but there's no need to do that.

Dan

Dan Stokes · #79 03-26-2013, 09:11 PM

Probably should have done more pics but today's stuff was not very showy though important.

Got the mains torqued (no big deal but necessary) and the oil pump reinstalled. Pretty straightforward. The Haynes manual showed the little extension from the pump to the block as needing a new O-ring but mine stayed right in the block so I left it alone. My gasket kit had no gaskets from the pump or the extension to the base so I assumed they don't get one. If this is a mistake please let me know before I button this up!

Then I flipped the engine and put the cam gear back on. This would have gone more easily if I'd known the the tensioner only moves OUT (tighter) and the only way to loosen it is to pull the whole deal out (one manifold nut and 2 small 13mm hex head screws). Then you push the plunger all the way thru and start over again from the outside of the holder. Once I knew how it was easy but the Haynes manual had nothing on it nor did any of the threads I found (doesn't mean I found all of possible threads as I'm not much of a computer guy). Anyhow, once I left the tensioner assembly loose I was able to push the passenger side (tensioner) slide fully into the head and easily slide the cam sprocket back on. Because I had pulled the crank out a bit from the bottom to do the rear seal (see the rear main seal thread) I found that the chain was just slightly different from where I left it as the crank had turned slightly. I grabbed the cam and SLIGHTLY nudged it back so everything lines up again. It took me a while to figure out why the cam sprocket key was off just a tad.

I also took this opportunity to pull the vacuum pump and clean it (it was NASTY) and replace the gasket (in the kit). Next question: How do you guys get the German gaskets off? MAN those things are stuck! I did the one for the tensioner and the one for the vacuum pump and they were both a bugger. Best luck seemed to be a razor blade (went thru several) followed up by a super sharp gasket scraper for the spots that I couldn't get the razor blade into. A couple of spots I even had to scrape with my little screwdriver. Anyhow - the tensioner is painted and installed and the pump is drying following it's bath.

One more question: Does anyone have a decent water pump housing? The pump seems fine but the heater hose nipple is corroded to the point that it actually has a couple of holes in it. I might be able to cut it back a little and use it but I'd happily pay for a better one - if it isn't TOO pricey!

Dan

Simpler=Better · #80 03-27-2013, 09:54 AM

For the gaskets spend the $50 and go this route, it is the difference between an economy ticket and a first class ticket:

Angle Die Grinder - Air Powered

2" Roloc Disc Pad Holder - 1/4" Shank - Amazon.com

3M Automotive Products 7515 Scotch-Brite Roloc Surface Conditioning Discs - 2" Fine/Blue 25-Pack : Amazon.com : Automotive

Any reason you aren't gutting(reversible modification) the vacuum pump?

For the corroded heater tube I cut mine off flush and then found a rubber hose at the parts store with a 90° bend in it. I found that when you WD40 heater hose it starts to melt and slips on really easy, but once it "cures" it's a nightmare to get off-so you know you have a solid seal. Can be seen in this photo:

Dan Stokes · #81 03-27-2013, 07:43 PM

Exactly what I was thinking about doing. One of the guys on here offered me a cheap used one but I'm just going to bypass the heater core anyway so I'm thinking cutting it off would be just fine. I'll bend a piece of metal tubing around the rear of the engine to connect the two heater hose connections.

I thought about the abrasive solution on gasket removal (I have all that stuff in stock) but with the pan off I was worried about shooting gasket schrapnel all over the inside of the engine. It may be the hot set-up, however.

Dan

Simpler=Better · #82 03-27-2013, 08:06 PM

If you want additional circulation, there is a drain plug on the passenger side you might be able to use as a return from the head, along with the auxiliary pump. I don't know how much it will help but that's an option.

The abrasives make a huge mess, but I've found it's always faster to make the mess and then clean it up later.

Dan Stokes · #83 03-28-2013, 10:27 AM

On the gasket removal - has anyone ever tried the Permatex spray gasket remover? I've used it on US gaskets in years past and it helped quite a bit. This was years ago and maybe it's so nasty that it's no longer available? It would be a nice solution if it's effective - and available (I'll go look online).

Dan

Simpler=Better · #84 03-28-2013, 11:01 AM

It's out there, you may have to order it online or a special order through NAPA, etc.

Dan Stokes · #85 03-28-2013, 10:13 PM

Completely different topic - I pick up the trans today. Jeff (the trans guru) pulled the pan and it looked perfect (no grindings, black junk, etc) so he put in a new M-B filter and fresh pan gasket and front and rear seal. He says I'll need both the vacuum line (easy enough) and the kick-down cable. I saved all the stock stuff so hopefully I can just hook it all back up before dropping it in the chassis. I'll run the auto until I can find a reasonable manual set-up (hint - hint). Good that I saved the M-B shifter as the B&M I have is unlikely to match the detent locations. I forgot to ask him if I can shift it manually or if I should let it take care of itself.

BTW - any threads I missed on the "B-piston"? Is this a weak link or?????

Again, thanks all for helping my thru this project. Lots of mechanical experience but almost no M-B experience.

Dan

Simpler=Better · #86 03-28-2013, 10:43 PM

You don't "need" either if you train yourself to drive with them. When the trans seems 0 vacuum it slams the shifts-which isn't a problem if you let off when you feel it starting to shift. If you have a working VCV on the IP, it's easier to just run nit factory though.

For the kickdown switch, you can downshift manually. When I wanted a fast takeoff I would put it in L at a stop, starting the trans in 1st gear, when you get to 4k, let off the accelerator, put it in S, rinse & repeat until you're in D. Just don't keep it floored while doing that or you will be looking for a new transmission in short order.

I don't know a whole lot about the pistons etc. But they're all easily replaced at home. There is a shift kit available as well.

Dan Stokes · #87 03-29-2013, 10:20 AM

Because this trans is hopefully temporary I took a pass on the shift kit, converter, etc. I think I'll start with it in "D" and see how it shifts. Given that I'll be on a race track it clearly would be better not to have to lift to get the shifts so I'm hoping "D" will let me keep my foot on the floor.

Can I just hook the vacuum pump up to the trans or does the vacuum need to be regulated to less negative pressure? I saved all the tubing, one-way valves, etc. from the M-B so I can sort thru them and add whatever is needed (I hope!).

Dan

Simpler=Better · #88 03-29-2013, 10:45 AM

Better put a cup of coffee on:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/158216-its-critical-how-you-set-your-transmissions-vacuum-system-your-diesel-mbz.html

Dan Stokes · #89 04-23-2013, 02:44 PM

Going racing this weekend (April 27-28) but I'll be running the Dodge (early '02 Diesel) in C/DT - C engine displacement class(5.015 to 6.111 liters), Diesel Truck. Wish me luck. My goal is to run 120 (current record is 119 and change). Truck has been 117.8 and I've done some stuff that might get me a bit more. This is all about personal goals so although a record would be nice it's really not the point of the exercise.

The S-10 is nowhere near ready although my new fuel cell did arrive today. It's a 2 gallon and will be mounted in the left front under the hood. Minimal fuel lines that way. I have completed a bunch of jobs that I needed to get out of the way and should be able to focus on the S-10.

Dan