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  #1  
Old 02-25-2013, 10:13 PM
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Tools for injector removal- 84 300SD

So based on the threads I've seen on this I want to have a 27mm deep well socket for the injectors and a 17mm open end wrench, preferably crow's foot or line wrench for the hard lines. I wonder if I have understood correctly. My thought is to grab these as cores out of the junkyard (unless I get lucky and they're perfect) and then have my injector guy rebuild them or put new nozzles on if necessary. Last question....I'm told by some that you need a special tool called an injector seat cleaner. My Ford/IH manuals also call for this but it is not done that way by most of us, we just use what's at hand to get as much carbon, grit and rust out of the prechamber as possible and call it good. Seems fine with that fuel system but I know they are distantly related at best. If the tool is needed does peachparts offer it? Thanks

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  #2  
Old 02-25-2013, 10:18 PM
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The hard lines use a 14mm last I checked.No need for a line wrench since the nuts that hold them down are not made from brass or easily marred like brake line fittings.
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  #3  
Old 02-25-2013, 10:54 PM
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The hard lines are 17mm, and a regular old open end wrench works just fine. For the injector itself you can use a 1-1/16" deep socket if you can't easily find a 27mm.

You might get lucky - I did last time I was out. I literally grabbed a set of injectors for the shims. I had a new set of Monarks I couldn't balance with the shims at hand. But when I popped them they were perfect pressure and great pattern. Sometimes it's better to be lucky than good. Ended up selling the Monarks.

I'd definitely recommend building a pop tester, otherwise you're just working in the dark. Grab the hard lines while you're at it. They're cheap and if nothing else you can cut and bend them into a drip tester.

I don't know about an injector seat cleaner, but you will need new heat shields.

You might want to pick up a HF compression tester and see where you stand while you've got the injectors out.
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  #4  
Old 02-25-2013, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdkl81 View Post
So based on the threads I've seen on this I want to have a 27mm deep well socket for the injectors and a 17mm open end wrench, preferably crow's foot or line wrench for the hard lines. I wonder if I have understood correctly.
If you don't specify which engine you are asking about, you're apt to get advice that applies to an engine that you don't have.
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  #5  
Old 02-26-2013, 12:44 AM
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Originally Posted by qwerty View Post
If you don't specify which engine you are asking about, you're apt to get advice that applies to an engine that you don't have.

Ding Ding... we have a winner!

OP, it's important to list what vehicle you are asking about, as there are a lot of options for tools for working on engines...
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"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:46 AM
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from a little digging, it appears you have an 84 300SD, please confirm/deny this, and I'll edit your thread title.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #7  
Old 02-26-2013, 01:22 AM
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Thanks for being patient...yes I did err by not telling you which engine. My engine is an OM617 in an 84 300SD. The donor vehicle is an older Mercedes but seems to have the same engine I think it's an 83 300D with a turbo. I might also grab the IP while I'm at it, we all need a good core right? I'm assuming the fuel system is similar enough that it doesn't matter, but I may be rash in making that assumption. In any case the injectors are cheap, and practice before I mess around with a car I care about. From now on, I'll make sure to specify which engine.
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  #8  
Old 02-26-2013, 12:07 PM
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Some deep sockets dont have clearance for the top end of nozzles, if you have one, take it with you & check. I cut an old standard 1/2" drv socket (whatever size it took) in half & welded a piece of thin-wall pipe in betwixt the two pieces. -corne-
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  #9  
Old 02-26-2013, 12:23 PM
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agreed, be CERTAIN the socket is 12 point, and the points go all the way to the top, not just at the end with a round part inside... BIG difference!
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #10  
Old 02-26-2013, 02:32 PM
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I have a Craftsman 1 1/16" deep 12pt socket # 47532
It is deep all the way to the end, so has plenty of clearance.

I was at Sears during Christmas time checking out the sockets, and the one`s they have in the 1 1/16 and 27mm have that shoulder part way up, so don`t think they will give the Nipples the clearance. for some reason Craftsman changed the 1 1/16. not sure how or if the 27mm was changed.

I also have a 27mm Kobalt deep 12pt #22312, does have a slight shoulder 1/2 way up inside, but inserting a spare Injector, there is plenty of clearance. the Injector top rest against the square hole in the top, same as the Craftsman. when removing the Injector from the engine, the injector does not come all the way to the top.

Kobalt is a Lowes brand.

Charlie
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  #11  
Old 02-26-2013, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
agreed, be CERTAIN the socket is 12 point, and the points go all the way to the top, not just at the end with a round part inside... BIG difference!
If it stops short you can always dremel out clearance for the return line barbs.
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  #12  
Old 02-26-2013, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
I was at Sears during Christmas time checking out the sockets, and the one`s they have in the 1 1/16 and 27mm have that shoulder part way up, so don`t think they will give the Nipples the clearance. for some reason Craftsman changed the 1 1/16. not sure how or if the 27mm was changed.
I've got that 1-1/16" Craftsman socket you referred to and it is just fine. It's number 50756.

In the image below you can see how the injector goes in far enough to completely engage the injector. The green line is where the return line barbs contact the ridge inside the socket. You need to be just a little careful so you don't smash the socket down onto the injector, but other than that it's really just fine. As long as you've got 1-3/4" before the shoulder it's ok.

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Tools for injector removal- 84 300SD-socket1.jpg  
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  #13  
Old 02-26-2013, 09:13 PM
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interesting, you got a 6 point socket to fit the barbs in? did you mash the barbs inward any? all my injectors the barbs stickout too far to fit inside a 12 point... I tried.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #14  
Old 02-26-2013, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
interesting, you got a 6 point socket to fit the barbs in? did you mash the barbs inward any? all my injectors the barbs stickout too far to fit inside a 12 point... I tried.
It hasn't been a problem so far. I've pulled 3 sets of injectors from the JY, removed and installed probably 5-6 sets doing compression tests, pop tests etc. Never been a problem. Maybe I'm lucky or dumb... or both, but so far so good.

I just looked at a set of cores that I was sloppy in not removing all of the return line from and I think they got compressed just a tad. Not enough to worry about I don't think, but for someone using the socket above, it would be wise to cut off all the return line before using. Also, if the return barbs are aligned with the V of the socket, it's functionally the same as a 12 point. The problem would only arise if it happens to align with the flat of the socket (or close) where on a 12 point it would be in a V groove, but on a 6 point it would align on a flat.
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  #15  
Old 02-26-2013, 10:41 PM
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I have a HF set of deep impact sockets, 6 pt. They fit and fairly cheap set I recall. It might have slightly bent the return tubes in as I pushed it down, but shouldn't hurt them. Was ~4 yrs ago.

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