I think I said that right, anyway. Just picked up an 82 240D that has a 300D turbo in it, and a manual. Seems to run pretty well, I drove it home on 60 miles of sparsely-traveled state highway. I felt obligated to post a thread and say hello since I'll be searching a lot, and posting a few questions.
I did get a little nervous about the instrument cluster not reading any oil pressure, because that's just not right, but it looks like the oil pressure sender was one of the many things that the swappers (the owners before the guy I got it from) decided not to hook up. I had a couple air-cooled VWs before this, only doing a valve adjustment once a year sounds like a nice change
Overall, the drivetrain seems pretty solid as far as I can tell, drove through city traffic before I got on the highway. Battery is on a charger now since it was low on water and didn't have quite enough oomph to turn it over at 35° outside, but it was pretty close.
Immediate concerns are getting some dash light action, getting the rear driver window up (already done enough searching that I think I can take care of that once I put the battery back in), and resolving and issue with the erratic fuel gauge (I plan to pull the sender and see if it needs cleaning).

Welcome to the Forum.
If the Engine came out of a 300SD it will have an Electric Sending Unit. I believe your 240D would be setup for a Mechanical Pressure Gauge; but I am not entirely sure.

Look down at the bottm rear of the Oil Filter and see what is down there. There is a separate Plate that bolts on down there and has the Turbocharger Oil Line attached to it and also either a spot for the Manual Oil Pressure Line (this points up) or the Electric Sending Unit.
I believe but am not sure if you can swap the Plates from the Electric to Mechanical. However, you need to determine if your Gauge is Mechanical or not.

The Instrument Cluster can be Pushed out from the rear if you remove the Lower Panel that is above your Feet/Knees. there is also Hooks you can make or Buy to Pull it out.
Some times you need to pull on the inside Cables to help move it forward so I personally don't have any use for the Hooks to pull it forward.

The Dash Lights are not bright even when they work correctly.

Concerning the Rear Left Window. If it is electric the problem can often be solved by removing the Counsel Switch and scraping off the Contacts inside of the Switch. It is common for the Window Regulator to bend.

The Window Motors are not grounded to the Chassis like the Starter Motor is. So if you test the Window to see if it goes up and down with Jumper Wires you hook the 2 Motor Wires to the Battery and the Window will go one direction. Swapping the Wires to opposite Terminals causes the Window to go the other direction.

For more details:
DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

Inspect the Oil and Transmission Cooler Hoses
The Motor Mounts on the Drivers Side. If collasped the Belt can cut through the Hose.
Inspect the Rubber Flex Discs on the Drive Shaft. When they break while driving they can cause sever damage. The front one is hard to see and you may need to remove some parts to see it.
Inspect the Rear Axle Boots for Cracks. The Factory Axles are filled with something like Differential Oil and when the Boots leak the Lube comes out.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks for the welcome and info
I didn't have a lot of daylight to work with after I got home. Battery took enough charge to get the engine started, I did have to keep the revs up for a minute before it would stay running, not sure if that's a function of the temperature outside (about 31º at the time) or something else I need to look into. One of the tires was low about 10PSI, so I took it to the gas station to fill it up, and ran a couple errands. Didn't give me any problem at all restarting on any of my stops. There may be just a little dieseling, not extensive, probably not more than a second after I turn the key off--or maybe that's normal

I did manage to get the window up by hand, so I'm satisfied with that for the moment, since there's no real need to have the windows go up and down for at least another couple weeks. That's probably when I'll check on the sunroof too, since that switch is also currently having no effect.
The dash lights do not appear to be producing any light whatsoever. I hadn't realized until doing further reading today that the dimmer is also the trip meter. No effect when turned back and forth--I may well do as others here have and just solder a jumper there when I have the cluster out, I'll see what the rheostat looks like first.

Lots of positive help here. Dont be bashful about asking. Most here are very willing help and also have that much needed hands on experience.

__________________
1985 300D 198K sold
1982 300D 202K
1989 300E 125K
1992 940T

"If you dont have time to do it safely, you dont have time to do it"

"The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not."

Ooh, a 617.95X/manual. I'm so jealous... is it an OM616 or OM617 flywheel?

__________________
"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."

Okay, what I have there seems to look like this. There's a line coming off the end, not connected to anything, of course. I should be able to pull the cluster this weekend to see what I'm dealing with there.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Unfortunately, I don't know that much about how the swap was done. The guy I got it from had originally planned on pulling the engine to put in an S10.
After driving it around town the last couple days, it's really putting a strain on my shifting arm, though. Once I parked it, I looked at the shifter for a minute. It seems the spring that's supposed to help it go from 2 to 3 is working, but the shaft (highlighted in the pic) seems to need some kind of lubrication, just sliding it from side to side there's quite a bit of resistance. It does seem like there's some buildup at the very end that was from some kind of grease. The shaft itself feels pretty much dry.
I don't have any kind of grease on hand currently. I found this thread, putting a dab of motor oil on there per the last post seems like it could get me by, but I'm open to other suggestions.

[edit: added image, I did end up putting a little synthetic 5W30 on it with a q-tip, there was a little left in the "empty" bottle from my oil change on my Jeep, seems to have made quite a difference).

Attached Thumbnails

 

I made a couple posts that haven't shown up yet

At any rate, it was pretty dirty, so I took it to a car wash today since it was about 34º outside. There's a section of the door seal missing on the driver's door, I stuffed some paper towels in that spot to minimize water intrusion, it mostly did the trick. Looks like there's a small leak in the sunroof too, but considering the amount of spraying I did and how much water I saw from that, I'm not sure it will be an issue in the rain.
There's a replacement piece for the door trim on the rear passenger side, but from what I'm reading, I'll need new red molding clips to attach it.

Attached Thumbnails

     

That, I don't know. But I'm definitely finding it enjoyable to drive, especially after being stuck with autos since November.
The current front shocks are toast, so I've already ordered a set and the tools I didn't currently have that I'd need (I don't have any 12 point sockets, and treated myself to a set of ratcheting box end metric wrenches).

Usually when the battery water is low it is time to replace the battery. I'd definately get it tested.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I hope you got bilstein they are the only shocks to get.

__________________

Also I'd POR15 any and all rust on that passenger rear area until you can get to it to keep it from getting any worse.

__________________
2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold

The plates were all still covered, and based on the dirt and the various crap that came out from around the trim and stuff, I think it was sitting outside for a while. This one should get me by for at least a little while, and I can pick up a remanufactured battery for $30 from a place just down the road from work.

I hope I don't get too much flak for it, but I got a pair of Gabriels from Autozone for $50 total, they've got to be better than what's there now. I've got so many little things to do on this, they should last until I can lay out the money for new set all the way around.

I'm planning on swinging by a body shop that's also near work and getting a ballpark quote. The only thing I can do myself is Bondo, and I'm not great at it (but I already have all the stuff I'd need from when I was working on my Beetle).