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  #1  
Old 03-02-2013, 09:31 AM
JHZR2's Avatar
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Injector wet from the middle

My 240D has sat since September because of being busy at work and with a new baby. It fired up beautifully, AC came on, perfect. Love the car.

But I noticed that the frontmost injector is wet. Only that one and the cloth lines are dry and pretty new. It seems like it is wet from where the two halves are.



The car only has 74k. Is it worth popping, balancing and new nozzles? I didn't notice a difference on my 162k 300cd turbo.

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #2  
Old 03-02-2013, 10:44 AM
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are you certain the braided lines are dry? hard to see the back one in the pic, that's not very wet, it could easily be from the braided lines. get some brake spray, and clean and dry the injector and then start the car and see exactly where the fuel originates.
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  #3  
Old 03-02-2013, 11:36 AM
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If the Injector really is leaking between the upper Injector Body and the Injector Lower Half you have 2 choices.

Removed the Injector and try torqueing it again or remove the Injector, take it apart, lap the precision surfaces, assemble it correctly and torque it.

Once in a while the Nipples/Barbs leak at the Base in the area where it is crimped over. If that happens you either replace the Upper Injector Body (that will change the opening pressure) or one of our Members cut the Barb/Nipple off and welded over it and moved that Injector to the Cylinder near the Fire Wall.
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  #4  
Old 03-02-2013, 01:35 PM
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i can tell you from direct experience those lines can look perfectly dry to your eye from that angle and in reality they're split and leaking
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  #5  
Old 03-03-2013, 10:47 AM
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Your return lines look like they have been on there a long time by the faded look. there could be a crack in the rubber where they fit onto the Nipple and seeping a little fuel giving you the illusion of a leaky Injector.

Before I would rip out the Injector and take it apart, I would first replace the return lines.

You will drive your self crazy trying to eliminate every little wet spot that shows up.

Our 1980 240D manual 4-spd has 348K on her now and has been pretty incredable since we became the caretakers for her at 306K. she has no noticable leaks. oh there is a little dampness of oil around the VC with dust stuck to it, but doesn`t mark it`s territory where ever we park her.
When I do a valve adjustment, then I wash the VC in a pan of gas and blow it off with Brake Cleaner, and all it good for a while.

Once in a while I run by the 25¢ car wash or down where I use to work and use the Steam Cleaner for a quickie and wipe her down.

We spent 5 days at my Moms a week back and parked on her prestine painted garage floor next to her 2001 Ford tarrus with 26K miles. (she is 91)

The 240 never leaves as much as a drop on her floor until this visit. she was sure to let me know there were 2 drops of oil on her floor.

Charlie
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  #6  
Old 03-03-2013, 11:07 AM
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I would certainly tackle the most likely and the most easiest:

1. New return lines. The culprit in over 95%+ of the instances

2. The 17mm nut needs a tiny intsy bitsie of tightening.

That weeping, although annoying, will most likely "evaporate" by the time gravity gets it to start running down the side of the head. If you have more of a leak, and the above 2 items do not fix your problem, then maybe it's the injector halves. Remember you have to replace the heat shields when you pull one and never more than 59 ft pds of torque.
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  #7  
Old 03-03-2013, 04:07 PM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
My 240D has sat since September because of being busy at work and with a new baby. It fired up beautifully, AC came on, perfect. Love the car.

But I noticed that the frontmost injector is wet. Only that one and the cloth lines are dry and pretty new. It seems like it is wet from where the two halves are.



The car only has 74k. Is it worth popping, balancing and new nozzles? I didn't notice a difference on my 162k 300cd turbo.
If it is the shell union leaking; Disassemble and lap the shell.

HOW-TO: Rebuild Diesel IDI Injectors
vincewaldon.com - HOW-TO: Rebuild Diesel IDI Injectors


.
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  #8  
Old 03-05-2013, 07:27 PM
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The lines are quite new. That was the color they came as from Phil.

Wondering if it is worth popping and balancing at 75k. Years shouldn't matter...

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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