Not that I need it yet, but is there a good DIY out there on how to change an injection pump on a OM617? If so I would appreciate a link, as the search turned up nothing for me.

Thanks in advance

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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)

Have you looked at the FSM?

It's pretty easy, just be patient and work steadily. Keep track of what you disconnected and where it is.

1) Remove all hard fuel lines.
2) Remove all fuel lines (banjo bolts) from IP. There's one on the inside near the engine. DON'T LOSE THE WASHERS.
3) Remove the oil supply line to the IP (banjo bolt) and again DON'T LOSE THE WASHER.
4) disconnect the throttle linkage running to the IP. Doesn't matter which joint you break, just don't have it connected to the valve cover linkage. Also remove the vacuum lines to the shutoff valve.
5) If this is the original IP (or someone did it by the FSM) then you have a bracket at the rear of the IP that needs to be removed. It's an "L" bracket between the IP and the block. Two screws on the block and one on the IP. All need to be removed. This is the longest part of removing an IP. You might only get a 1/4 of a turn and have to reposition your wrench BE PATIENT. Don't worry, you don't really have to replace this part and most people I've talked to don't.
6)There are three nuts (13mm IIRC) holding the IP to the engine proper towards the fuel filter side of the IP. One on the outer side, one between the IP and the engine and one on the bottom. Loosen all three then remove them carefully, the IP will be detached at this point.
7) Now pull the IP to the back of the car while rotating the back upwards to clear the oil filter housing.


Installation is the reverse of step 7. Read up on IP timing as you have to install the IP in time with the engine. Final adjustments can be made rotating the IP on the three mounting studs but you really want to get it within a few degrees to start with.

A reminder, BE PATIENT. This is not a simple R&R job. Installing the IP with the correct timing is HARD, VERY FRUSTRATING WORK. But it can be done.

You can also remove the oil filter housing but I prefer not to. The extra room it gives you isn't worth the mess IMO.

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Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]

I do not have an FSM. thank you Martureo for the good write up!!

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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)

Ideally you have the IP lock tool so you lock the pump timing before removing.

On the 603 this lock keeps the pump at 15 deg BTDC.

Would you happen to know the part # for the IP lock tool?

No one mentioned the Timing?
If you plan to put the Injection Pump back on; befrore the Fuel Injection Pump is removed line the Engine Crank Damper degrees to 24 degrees before Top Dead Center on the Compression Stroke.
It is easier to get at the back bracket under the Fuel Injection Pump by disconnecting at least one of the Oil Cooler Lines.
The Factory Service Manaual calls for removing the Oil Filter Housing.

This is what I did but I modified the Bracket when I installed it and it still tool a long time to get it back in.
Fuel Injection Pump Removal with the Oil Filter still on 617.952
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=297458


DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

There is an official factory site that you have to register with to view the FSM and there is this one Model 123 Maintenance Manual Index

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85 Merc 300D - Unwinding 31 years of wear
86 VW TD
Mahindra Diesel
Iseki Diesel

In 2007 I didn't own a diesel.

R&R it easy.....doing the timing is a pita......and don't remove the oil filter house.....then you have another pita.....I gave up on trying to get the back bolt back on.....my ip won't drip....so its off a tooth or two.....car starts and runs with correct MPG....so its on the far far back burning.....the PO did me the favor of removing both my IP and oil filter housing.....you can use a lug nut for the locking tool......bungie to hood hing to hold the throttle open....and borrow a hand to pump the primer as you attempt to find and keep the sweet spot....

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That rear bracket is a real bugger even on a 616. I saw a post where the bolt hole in the bracket was turned into a SLOT, which is what I will do if and when I have to pull another IP. The last one I did I finally went in the house and got my wife to come out to the shop and get her little hands up to start the bolt in that dastardly bracket.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

www.startekinfo.com might help you to get some of it so long as your java version is antiquated enough for their web site (it is available for free so it is perhaps worth a bit of effort)

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I've read that some people with the MW pump on the OM617 have had to resort to removing the oil filter to get the sodding thing off - all in all it is probably best left in place!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I'd feel ok about pulling the O/F housing to get the IP out if the gasket was leaking. I haven't had to pull an M pump yet, it looks a little easier.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Me too - I'm not scared of that kind of thing...

...but I think that we need to realise that some people (= most people) don't like to see their vehicles reduced to component parts!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

true,it is because of ONE bolt which is 0.5cm over engineered,MW people
should put 0.5cm shorter back and be free for any future endeavour..



Mercedes Special Tools


.

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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered