It feels like my rear suspension is "swaying" left and right when I am accelerating and decelerating. There is no movement in the steering and the view out of the back seems to be moving with the sway.

If I am prying on the subframe mounts, what should I be looking for. I pried on them while the car is on jack stands and there is movement, but the rubber mount doesn't look to be pulling away from the bolt that secures them. I recently replaced the center subframe mount thinking that could be the culprit, it wasn't.

The right hydro shock is leaking a little showing on the control arm, but the back levels fine and the ride is where it should be. Aside from a constant buzzing noise that is in exact sync with the rpms and seems to be coming from that side, it is noisy in the cabin. I have also replaced the sway bar connectors? The white plastic/vinyl pieces.

Any ideas? Thanks

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1980 300TD, SOLD
1984 300TD, 275K
1999 C230 K Black & Tan
2013 C250 Black
1974 CJ5 Red
You might faint from the fight, but you're gonna find it. Every challenge could have paradise behind it. -John Popper-

Page 2 already?

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1980 300TD, SOLD
1984 300TD, 275K
1999 C230 K Black & Tan
2013 C250 Black
1974 CJ5 Red
You might faint from the fight, but you're gonna find it. Every challenge could have paradise behind it. -John Popper-

The rear of the 123 you have 4 trailing Arm bushings on each side, the 2 Sub Frame bushing, one on each side, and the Differential mount.

I replaced all these a couple yrs back on our 85 300D, and it really tightened up the rear end.
I didn`t have a problem with the back end wondering, but after 360+ K miles, it was time.

There has been a lot of threads on replacing the rear end bushings. do a search on my user name and there should be something to come up. as I remember I listed what I did in several threads.


The parts are not all that expensive, just time consuming to drop the whole rear suspention and R&R the parts. Iused Trailing arms from a lower milage 300CD and it`s Diff (85), degreased everything and got it all painted up with POR. Be sure not to use URO parts or other Chicom parts.


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Probably bushings. Mine doesn't wander when I'm going straight, but in hard cornering there's a definite sensation of the back end steering a little wide, then "taking a set" and staying stable after that. It also gets pushed around easily by the wind.

In the cheap/free department, do make sure your rear tire pressures are correct. The back end wanders a lot when they get squishy.

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1981 Mercedes 300TD, 1994 Honda Civic Del Sol
http://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-us/67195.pnghttp://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-us/103885.png

Charlie, yeah I wish that were the case with the TD. Subframe bushings for the D are around $31 for both and $285 for the wagon. Still, good advise thank you.

I've been extensively looking at the different posts and Stretch/Army has an excellent guide along with whiskydan. I can't see this being anything other than the forward two subframe mounts, but I'm not the expert of the bunch so I threw it out there. Would loose rear bearings do that?

Orv - Yes, same symptoms as that only I can get it to sway by just accelerating and then letting off the pedal. At highway speed you have to counter steer when you back off the throttle. Still the buzzing noise is my biggest question mark. I have know idea what is making the noise and the only thing attached to the engine that would change with the rpms is the SLS. Maybe it is touching the body somewhere? Thank you for the reply.

Todd

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1980 300TD, SOLD
1984 300TD, 275K
1999 C230 K Black & Tan
2013 C250 Black
1974 CJ5 Red
You might faint from the fight, but you're gonna find it. Every challenge could have paradise behind it. -John Popper-

RPM-dependent buzzing can be the exhaust touching something, too. Often it comes and goes depending on the engine torque, because when the engine torques on its mounts it causes the exhaust to shift. This is especially true if your engine mounts are bad.

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1981 Mercedes 300TD, 1994 Honda Civic Del Sol
http://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-us/67195.pnghttp://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-us/103885.png

I tried that route as well, replaced the engine mount, trans mount, center bearing and rear subframe mount as well. I've looked over the exhaust and checked the trans mount for the exhaust, nothing. If I put my ear against the rocker by the right rear jack point, it seems to be the loudest.

__________________
1980 300TD, SOLD
1984 300TD, 275K
1999 C230 K Black & Tan
2013 C250 Black
1974 CJ5 Red
You might faint from the fight, but you're gonna find it. Every challenge could have paradise behind it. -John Popper-

Before I wade on into this problem can I ask =>

1) Would it be fair to say that you get a pendulum effect from a swinging rear end rather than vagueness at the steering?

2) During accelerating / decelerating is this a forceful change in acceleration or does it always happen even with a light lift off the gas pedal / accelerator?

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Stretch,

1) Yes, it is a pendulum effect left/right, no lifting or sagging, other than what is normal.

2) It is not forceful, though you don't notice it at slower speeds unless it is a quick release of the accelerator. For example: If I am accelerating normally from a stop and something causes me to release the accelerator immediately, then you would feel it. Subsequently, if I am at highway speeds 65-70, then the slightest lift and acceleration is felt by me and I have confirmed that with others sitting in the car.

It is not "violent" but you feel as if you are skating around the road. If I hold a constant speed without adjusting, the car tracks straight.

__________________
1980 300TD, SOLD
1984 300TD, 275K
1999 C230 K Black & Tan
2013 C250 Black
1974 CJ5 Red
You might faint from the fight, but you're gonna find it. Every challenge could have paradise behind it. -John Popper-

My gut feeling is that you need to make sure that the SLS is working correctly. The RPM buzzing noise / the onset of twitchiness with RPM could be SLS system related.

Please note I have no experience with SLS as my car hasn't got it, however, as I can only really expect to get the results you have from obviously worn components / accident damage; my guess is that it has to be the bit I haven't got!

Do you have some hydraulic test gauges so you could replicate the procedure in chapter 32-530 in the FSM?

Even if you don't have a pressure gauges (yet) I think a quick read through that chapter in the FSM and the other three chapters might not be a bad thing. May be some of the symptoms mentioned in those chapters will prompt some more avenues of investigation?

For example too high a setting is meant to make a whistling / knocking noise (see chap 32-501 towards the end) could this be your buzzing noise?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

First thing to check is the rear sway bar links....very inexpensive and simple to change if bad.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I have replaced the sway bar links about 2 months ago, so we can rule that out.

I do not have a gauge, but if that could be the problem, I will get one. I will reference the FSM and see what it says. The right rear hydro shock is leaking to the outside, but doesn't appear to be "dripping" on the floor.

My next step may be to take out the interior panels and see if anything is or could be loose, and if any part of the SLS is touching metal in there. From under the car I don't see anything obvious, but I need to dig deeper.

I'll check out the FSM and see if it can narrow my options.

__________________
1980 300TD, SOLD
1984 300TD, 275K
1999 C230 K Black & Tan
2013 C250 Black
1974 CJ5 Red
You might faint from the fight, but you're gonna find it. Every challenge could have paradise behind it. -John Popper-

I have an 85 300TD w123 with similar rear end swaying issues that recently became worse when I replaced a read axle and replaced the SLS struts (rams) and spheres.

On the highway wind makes the wagon feel unstable and the rear seems to be the culprit. Also, on / off the pedal while doing any where from 60 mph up and I have to correct the steering due to the read end.

About 10k miles ago I did the subframe bushing as well. Front end suspension is entirely new. But as I stated, the recent rear end work seems to have accentuated the issue (previously barely an issue and not worth my worry, now it feels almost dangerous).

Up on a lift. A pry bar will almost always locate what is wrong. When rear steering is evident. I have had the issue several times over the years and never found it enjoyable to drive a car with it.