I just got a 617.951 out of an'85 w126 300SD to put into my Jeep. I decided to go through and take everything off and change all seals and gaskets. I was not aware that the IP effected timing, I am new to diesel engines. The IP was the absolute last thing removed and the first thing put back on. To my recollection, the crank should not have moved between taking off the IP and reinstalling it.

It is likely thought that when I put it back on that it is off a tooth or two though... Unfortunately I did not see the threads on timing until after I got the motor in the Jeep and bolted to the tranny. Once I get the torque converter bolted on to the flywheel and the starter installed, then I can try and start it. What can I expect if the timing is off? Am I going to need to pull the IP?

If the timing is off it just won't run, it's not the end of the world.

The pump can be removed to reset the timing. Unless you're win-the-lottery-lucky you will be pulling the pump. Don't panic, it's not that bad. There is a nice guide i nthe wiki on proper pump setup I'll see if I can drag it up

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

crossing my fingers that it just starts... Would have been really easy to set up the pump with it on the pallet in my garage... Not so easy installed in the engine bay...

here

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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered

Setting pump primary timing with the milli volt method. Lots of reading but will help you in many ways I think. Or at least increase your understanding hopefully.

If there is enough room in the Kidney Slots on the Pump Flange for you to adjust the timing correctly you will not need to remove it.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I am really hoping this is the case, I think i understand how to find out what the current timing is using the bubble method. I will do that first and then go from there...

If you have the original IP on the '85 engine you can time it with what is known as the A-B timing light. This is a lot easier and arguably more reliable than drip tests. You might be able to borrow this equipment from a forum member => search for the tool rental thread.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I see lots of people mention the A-B timing light, but i have been searching and searching and can not find the actual tool anywhere...

Since you have the '85, setting timing becomes much easier for you.

On the side of the IP, near the flange where the forward section of the IP attaches to to the rear section is a bolt. Remove this bolt. Some oil will discharge from the port. Ignore it.

Rotate the engine to 15 degrees AFTER TDC on the POWER STROKE of the #1cylinder. Be sure you're not on the intake stroke.

Now get a mirror and look into the port. You're looking for a steel tang that comes close to the opening of the port. If you see the tang in the middle of the port (unlikely), you have the timing spot on. If you do not see the tang, rotate the IP in the slots and try to find the tang. If you can't find the tang, move the timing to 5 degrees AFTER TDC and try it again. You want to see the tang in the middle of the port and get a read on the timing at the crankshaft. You might need to try various positions at the crankshaft until you find the tang.

Once you have this figure, then we can tell you what to do about it.

Rotated it around till the notch showed up. Timing mark was at 61 when the notch was in the center of the hole. What now?

And I mean 61 clockwise from the zero mark.

A pic of the timing mark with markup is below. So it appears that it is at around 60-65 BTDC when the notch is viewable in the A-B Light Hole, correct? ( I may be geeting BTDC and ATDC confused here) But it should be at 15 deg ATDC? So it is about 80 deg off? If this is the case, it sounds like I need to pull the IP off and rotate the crank.

So with the notch in the center of the IP and the IP pulled off, should I rotate the crank clockwise 45 deg or 75 deg?


Does the crank turn around twice for every one revolution of the IP?

To get the 15 degrees after top dead center you need start going up on the Compression stroke and to OT on the Degree Marks (that is Top Dead center) go past that to 15 degrees ATDC.

The 15 degrees ATDC was picked due to the construction of the Governor Weight Carrier that has the Blade Projection on it inside of the Governor.
For some reason they did not make it so it lined up with 24 degrees BTDC.

Of course the Engine needs to be turned the Proper rotation also.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Do you think I will be able to unbolt the IP and slide it back far enough back to disengage it and then rotate the crank, without actually having to remove the IP completely?