Found this add on craigslist. What do you guys think.
 

My friend is interested in this car and sent me this add.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ctd/3673450252.html

It's a goodish looking car, but I'm curious as to your guys' opinion.

Also the 617 is not the engine I'm most familiar with, what should we be looking for.

Thanks guys,

Greg

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I have an '84 300SD with a near perfect leather interior, but faded paint and high miles. On mine the A/C works great (Sanden compressor & 134A). I am also asking $2,500 for mine. All things considered and comparing the 2 cars, that sounds like a decent deal. Finding replacement blue seat upholstery at a wrecking yard is not hard if you want MB Tex, but leather is near impossible to find in good shape. If you want the A/C to work, you will spend 4-6 hundred to make the system work. The stock R4 compressor was basically junk from the factory (IMO), so going back to an R4 would again be a mistake in my opinion. You could have a new R4 and drier installed, have it leak tested, charged, and the system may last a season or two and still cost around $400 to fix. Installing a Sanden compressor, mounting bracket, drier, hoses, evac and charge will cost more (could be as much as $600), but the system should last the rest of the life of the car. As far as finding used parts to fix the interior, body and engine, there seem to be many 126 models in wrecking yards nowadays. For new parts, I suggest Pelican Parts. Being in CA, the service is great with next day shipping (parts in stock), and the prices can't be beat (from what I have found). As far as DIY help (online), there is no better place than right here!.....Rich

The body looks good...although the seats are slighly worn - I might have missed it, but is that original paint (IDK they mentioned fading)? If repaint, I'd be skeptical..the leather seats tend to wear out if not covered, so its hard to use those as a judge for mileage.

The electrical gremlins mentioned seem typical for this age; however, I'd want to investigate the temp gauge claim (whether or not its heating) to make sure. I can't say I've ever heard that one before - maybe someone else here can shed light. Do they have maintenance records? That should help assert the claimed mileage, but doesn't mean the odo wasn't broken for 10+ years and fixed for the sale.

The engine is the main question, since not really affordable to rebuild. A simple test is to remove the oil fill cap and judge the "blow-by" (keep a rag to clean oil spits). A little puffing is OK, but if a lot of flow, the rings are gone and likely the cylinder liners worn. If no puffing, put the cap back and remove the PCV tube. If no puffing thru that small hole, the engine is like new. If a good engine, $2500 sounds like a good price since the engine should be good until at least 300K miles. CA cars are almost never rusted.

I wouldn't worry too much about the seats. Most driver seats need rebuilding since the horsehair cuts into the springs, and springs break. Leather covers are expensive or un-obtanium (I need). I would consider using seat covers or eventually installing new seats from a newer junkyard car, as others have. The factory seats were too springy even when new, in my opinion.

Rollguy is right about the R2 compressor. It seized in both of my 300D's. You can read about it on GM websites. I bought Rollguy's Sanden brackets but haven't installed yet.

Body looks good from what I can see on my phone. I think with done sear covers and a cab of contact cleaner it could be a good car. The guages sound like a dirty found and the seat is very likely a dirty switch. The window is either a dirty switch, bad motor, or regulator (all easy to find in a junk yard). I think for what it is I'd offer $2000 and go from there. For a rust free car, assuming drives well, what he's asking seems fair.

I don't see any rust- but the ad doesn't mention, so I'd be underneath it to check. Just becasue its in CA now doesn't mean that's the only place it has ever been.

Consider the interior to be in bad shape, and if you plan on replacing with boneyard parts- I'd call around and see what is out there. (I bought our 190 with the idea that I'd change out one of the seats and that was nearly 10 years ago. This swap hasn't happened because I can't find a donor with interior parts in better condition than what I've got. And finding an old benz around here in a yard is impossible- but there's plenty of 90s Kias!)

Also, ask your friend what he's expecting from the car. I have met more than a few people who are mistakenly under the impression that all diesels get 50 mpg- and that car might only see half that figure occasionally according to conversations I've had with sd owners at the pumps. (please don't flame me if your 300sd got almost 30mpg on a downhill run with a 60 mph wind to your back- I'm just saying I usually hear figures like 18 to 25 mpg.)

Lastly, other members may have better insight but I think the price is a little steep for a car with windows, seats, radio, AC and etc. that are broken and don't work and an interior that is kaput. I'd make an offer that would allow you to have some money to replace those parts and get it in good working order.

Best of luck!

That describes most of the 80's era Mercedes Benz cars that are for sale nowadays.

That doesn't sound like a bad price for this area. Keep in mind that you could drive it to the junkyard and sell it for $1200, so thats about the minimum you will see one for. I paid $2300 for mine, which was in slightly better shape but has at least 2.5 times as many miles as that one.

What he said...
 

Agreed, I'd be absolutely certain re: the entire drivetrain. Some blow-by ok, alot...NOT! Same goes for tranny, make sure the test drive is thorough. Also, be a stickler on the overheating issue that HE mentions in the ad. Could be as simple as a bad temp sender, but then again... You have plenty of hilly areas around there for long steep pulls at 80+. I'd stretch her legs out BIGTIME before dropping my knot!

Second, mentioned already, but deserves repeating: Just because it's here now doesn't mean it's always lived in California. Even then, it's in the bay area, so still not ideal. GOT SALT? It may not get tossed on the roads in the winter, but it's there. Get under that chassis with a magnifying glass and your comb. Just a hunch, but I'd say the front suspension will need attending to. If I'm correct you have a powerful bargaining chip with a highly probable front end rebuild to worry about. Will that list of fix-its for the interior, all the rubber outside the cabin better be attended to. Tires included.

Asking price not out of line at all.

And points for the clever use of dash pad! I would have expected to see sheepskins on the front seats.


MBZ123

Check the basics like these guys say. Not having to re-paint the car saves you $2000 if you have the want to drive something that looks half decent.

If I was looking for another MB, this one would be a no-brainer. I'd probably walk away with it for $2300 if nothing major was wrong with it.

I'd offer 2000 and go from there.

If you go to take a test drive, insist that the engine be cold. See if it smokes any on startup and test drive. Blowby test, as suggested, is a good indicator. Does trans shift smoothly? Do check for rust as suggested.

Price is about right for a decent car with minimal problems.

Check for common signs of lack of maintenance. Excessively worn rotors, rubber on front end, motor and other mounts, does it drive strait and continue to drive strait when you hit brakes while letting go of steering wheel? (don't be going too fast)