'84 300D Hinge Pockets & Battery Tray - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Bengoshi2000 · #1 03-20-2013, 01:44 PM

I have a couple small holes in each pocket that are leaking into the interior and some pinholes under the battery... so next week I'm tackling the rust on these areas. I'm likely going to order this kit to get me on my way: FLOOR PAN & TRUNK KIT-POR-15 Inc.

Anyone think this is a bad idea?

Diesel911 · #2 03-20-2013, 02:52 PM

One of the reasons the Hood Hinge Pockets/Tunnels get rusty is becaue the Drains are clogged and Water Pools there.

Nothing wrong with using High Classed products if that is what you want to do.

My Car is a rust bucket so when I do rust repairs like that I scrap off the scaly rust, Wire Brush the rust, paint on some of that rust Converter type paint ($8-$13), epoxy down some woven Polyester Cloth (Figer Glass Cloth is more traditional but I have the Polyester Cloth so I use that), after which I coat the cloth with as may layers of JB-Weld as I need on both sides of the Repair (I am showing the Wheel Well so both sides were coated).
Afterwards I sprayed whole thing with Rustoleum Primer.
I used a Hair Dryer to seed up the cure time of the Epoxy and the Epoxy can be sanded down if you want to.
Also I live in S CA so I don't have near the rusting issue as other States have.

I am trying to post pics but I am getting an upload error?

Dan Stokes · #3 03-20-2013, 03:17 PM

While I'm sure that above poster has the best of intentions this is, at best, a temporary fix and you'll be doing it again before you know it. JB Weld and poly cloth does not restore structure and, especially in the hinge pockets, you need structure. Doors are HEAVY, especially on a M-B. The best (and only real) solution is to weld in appropriate repair panels, especially for the hinge pockets.

There's a couple of ways to do this. One is to buy yourself a wirefeed welder (called a MIG in the trade) and learn how to use it. I have a Lincoln (runs on 110 household current) and a 220 Eastwood - Eastwood makes a smaller unit that runs on 110 - they offer very good value for the money.

Unless you plan to do a bunch of this you're probably better off to find a local car guy and trade welding for being an extra set of hands around the shop. A little sheet metal and some primitive metal shaping skills (vise, hammer, pliers) and you can fix this stuff in a lasting manner. You may need to pull the doors to get in there - not sure on your car - but it'll be once and done.

Another choice is to hire a local welding shop to do the welding and/or fabrication. Folks I know have found it to be cheaper than they imagined and it's done in a timely manner.

Either way, after the repairs prime with self-etching primer and paint the repair spots. As previously mentioned be sure that the drains are working, weather strips are in place, etc. to keep it from failing again.

Sorry I can't tell you it's an easy fix but I'd be lying to you if I did.

Dan

cooljjay · #4 03-20-2013, 03:36 PM

Ah some bondo, newspaper...preferable Sundays edition, and some duct tape to hold the paper in as the bondo dries...what more do yo need?

I think just killing the rust is just fine, if your car is a rust bucket but if your car is in nice shape I would recommend have new sheet metal welded in. The best thing is find out what caused the rust and take care of it..clogged drains or bad seals..

Bengoshi2000 · #5 03-20-2013, 04:42 PM

When I bought the car two years ago the hood hinge drains were clogged. I've been keeping them clean since. But the damage was done long before I owned it.

The car IS in nice shape otherwise and I have access to a friend with a wire-fed MIG, etc. and he's stoked about working on my car. In actuality, it will come out cheaper to weld in new metal doing the work ourselves. I was just curious if these POR15 kits offered any value in their ease of application.

It's also fortunate these areas don't have to be pretty when done!

Dan Stokes · #6 03-20-2013, 08:37 PM

There ya go! Perfect solution.

In my opinion POR15 and products like that are fine if there is no rust-thru. They should stop surface scaling and that sort of thing quite well. Once you get a hole you might as well get out the MIG - especially if you have a willing friend.

Good luck on this!

Dan

Diesel911 · #7 03-20-2013, 09:08 PM

The shame of owning a Rust Bucket

The JB Weld Repair with Cloth is stronger than a similar repair done with Bondo that us used in normal Bopy Shops.

Stretch · #8 03-21-2013, 02:28 AM

Here are some threads you might want to read

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair-restoration/231360-hood-hinge-drain-rust-repair.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair-restoration/286079-w123-hood-bonnet-spring-pocket-refurbishment.html