I need help! I just bought a 87 124 603 a few months ago. It only has 167000 original miles. It was not driven much. In the past 4 years the precious owner put <4k on it. Since I bought it I have put >1k on it. It has been a little hard starting also a little white smoke and some injector nailing. So the first order of business was injectors and glows. So that is what I did yesterday.

I am going to explain what I did and the what my problem is and hopefully you all can help.

I removed the intake manifold, removed hard lines, removed injectors, removed, glow plugs, reamed glow plug holes, installed new glows, cleaned injectors, replaced injector nozzles with Monarks, pop tested and shimmed b/t 1950-2000, installed rebuilt injectors, cleaned intake manifold (caked with soot and oil), new IM gasket, installed intake manifold, hard lines, last few connection...

I go to start and the engine maybe makes a half a revolution and hits a hard stop... I panic thinking I dropped a tool in the belt... Check and no tools to be found in engine compartment. Try to start again and same thing... Now I'm worried I dropped something in the engine... But open holes were always covered. Try again and it turns over fine... I run the starter for a few 20s rounds with some cool off time b/w. this engine is self bleeding right? I then loosen all the hard lines at the injectors and run the starter 3 times with no few coming out... I take the lines off the injection pump and nothing comes out of it.

I'm scared that something went wrong in the injection pump.

I did not do anything to the fuel system past removing the hard lines so there should be no air in there right?

I really have no idea what is going on any help is welcome. I am completely new to this car and have next to no experience with mechanics in general so don't be afraid to ask me the "obvious/stupid" Q's. I really hope it's some stupid mistake that is easily fixed and not a bad injection pump.

Thank you for all your help in advance,
Lucas

Fuel coming out of lift pump?

Two possible problems , back up a step and find what caused your hard stop, do a compression test if possible,if thats ok , you need fuel coming out of injection lift pump,go from there,you never rotated engine backwards did you?

Oh I'm afraid I may have done a grave mistake. I talked to a friend about it and he asked if I used any oil or fluid on the injectors or such. Well I was having a hard time getting one of the crush washers out due to carbon deposits so I thought a little diesel will help loosen it. I thought it couldn't hurt... It will just push it out the exhaust. I did not think of the fact u can't compress a liquid. I guess I thought there was more space in there then the little bit of fuel I used. This seems like a good place to start. So he told me to ask you all if there is sheer pin to look for or some weak point to look for. Does his theory make sense to you? Why is it turning over now? Did it leak through the piston ring?

I can't see anything above having an effect on the Fuel Injection Pump.

If you disconnect the out let of the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump and you Crank the Engine and Fuel come out you will know the Fuel Injection Pump is turning.
Or you could simply remove the Spin on Fuel Filter. If Fule comes out of the Filter Housing the IP is turning.

Less messy except for some Oil you could remove the Plug on the IP Governor Housing where the Timing Pin/A&B Light goes and see if you can see movement through that hole.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Or was forced out the exhaust valve.



Loosen all six nuts on the tops of the injectors and crank the engine until you see fuel dribbling out of all six lines. It might take 2-3 minutes of cranking to get it. DO NOT run the starter for more than 30 seconds. Wait at least five minutes between attempts and allow the starter to cool.

You need a good battery and, possibly a recharge or two..........but, have patience and you'll get it.

Once you have the fuel, tighten all the nuts back down and start it up.

Thanks for the fast replies! You don't seem to be worried about me having broken anything with liquid in the cylinder. No chance I broke anything and further cranking will worsen the problem?

Thanks for the fast replies! You don't seem to be worried about me having broken anything with liquid in the cylinder. No chance I broke anything and further cranking will worsen the problem?

I'm gonna go out now and just crank it some more. I didn't even ware the battery down once. My thought was that all that had to be filled are the hard lines. But sounds like I need to crank more. Shouldn't I get plenty of fuel coming out of the top of the IP if I disconnect the lines there? I get spit out

A little wd 40 sprayed into the intake breather with the cover removed will usually make the engine run till it picks up fuel. Saves the starter and battery from a lot of stress. Best done with two people.

Follow the procedure provided. Your deviation will simply delay your success.

I am worried about the two STOPS of the motor when cranking... if you had a few teaspoons of diesel sitting on the piston when you spun it around, it's possible to bend a rod, but it's UNLIKELY. more likely, you just strained the starter.
always spin the motor over with the glows disconnected, and the injectors out before buttoning everything up next time!!!

Brian has the right idea, you need to FULLY charge the battery first, then with all 6 lines loose at the injectors, spin the motor for 30 seconds, and let it rest, then repeat until there is fuel at them all. fuel will well up at the #6 first then 5,4, etc... it'll try and start while you are at 5 or 4, and by 3 it should be running, VERY POORLY, but running, then the last few build fuel quickly.

__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

The ONLY time I ran out of fuel, it took me about 3 recharges of the battery to get it started. Of course, I did NOT initially know I was out of diesel.

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daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more

Ever do the delivery valve seals?

You'll be sweating bullets...............

I use my Might-Vac to suck the fuel into the system before I stain the starter.

Well I got it going! Thank you all. I watched a clock while cranking for 30s. I could not make myself do the whole 30s. It feels horrible to crank that long. Well it was a good experience. As vstech said it came out of six first so I tightened it and so I got them all done. I just hooked up the jumper cables up for this.

Barry12345 would you use wd40 with all the lines tightened down? Or loose then tighten as fuel comes thu?

Well this car is doing its job of giving me experience . It's an awesome car! Thank you you all for patience and help for even the simple things. This forum has been a gold mine for me!

As to the fuel in that I dumped int piston 5. If I bent a rod the engine would still run but would have some nocking noises? As for noises go before doing rhe injectors there was a significant nocking noise in the engine. After learning from reading on here I lessened each of the hard lines individually and when I would losen #1 the noise was gone! I was happy about that cause that's easy to fix. Now after rebuilding the injectors the original noise is defiantly gone. Now I'm just paranoid about #5 that caused the STOPS. it seems to nock and make noise sometimes and other times sound like a great Diesel engine. Should I worry about this or am I just being paranoid?