Beautiful work... but why an Astro Van??

Couldn't you find one of these --->>

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'87 924S
'81 280SEL

Sold ->

81 300SD -
93 300E w/ 3.2
85 300D-
79 300SD
82 300CD
83 300CD - CA
87 190E 5 spd
87 Porsche 924S

"..I'll take a simple "C" to "G" and feel brand new about it..."

I reckon you'd be fine with the compressor pulley - well "fine enough" to give it a go.

I assume the old petrol engine could turn a maximum of 6000 rpm and I guess you'll not be modifying the OM616 to past 5000rpm (!?) so the top end speed of the pump shouldn't be too far out from the stock situation; using your numbers (0.92:1 vs 0.81:1)

max speed 6000 rpm @ driven => 4860 rpm stock astro pump situation
max speed 5000 rpm @ driven => 4600 rpm modified compressor pulley astro pump situation

and at idle

min speed 800 rpm @ driven => 648 rpm stock astro pump situation
min speed 800 rpm @ driven => 869.5 rpm modified compressor pulley astro pump situation

It looks like you won't be over revving the power steering pump - and it looks like you'll have power steering at idle too!

But you might find that one pump is more efficient than the other - which will suck the most power?

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I think we are trying to say about the same thing.

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All Diesel Fleet
1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL
2005 E320 CDI (daily)

LOTS of parts for sale!


EGR block kit
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html

1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This!
Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst.

Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11):
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html

oiling almost resolved, i went through a few different remote plates.

This was the first one where I welded some 10-AN fittings to a 1/4 inch steel plate. It was pretty, but it leaked-



Went back in and welded around and around and around, 4 beads. It was ugly, and of course had I stopped to consider what I was doing, I probably wouldnt have warped the plate as bad and made it unusable except for a machinist to cut down.

version 2-



Then I wised up and went with 1/2 inch steel plate, and drilled and tapped the 10-AN fittings instead, which was a lot cleaner-




fits nicely with the transmission plate, im going to be using pushlok hose and fittings for my connections. I was looking for a basic oil cooler I can adapt to the 10-AN, but after reading mach's thread where he diesel converts a SL, ill be following what he did and tapping the holes in the stock MB oil cooler I have.



The major hurdle im waiting on still is the power steering line bump fitting ends so I can make custom ones. I do not recommend ordering from "parts dave" for your domestic vehicle, its been 8 days and hasn't shipped yet.

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lol, I looked at one for a temp van while I was working on this project. They are also cool blocky vans with a good following, but I do love me the astro, and I found the forum support community to be more extensive. They are very similar though

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I think you and stretch are right, this is a pre hydroboost astro, so its a super basic brake setup and a small power steering pump.
Once those long awaited parts finally arrive, I can see which way I want to go, if I can make the high pressure line fairly easily, then ill revisit which pump makes more sense

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fuel system almost ready, im redoing the whole thing with rubber lines. I was adapting the steel lines, but they are so rusty that I decided to rip the whole assembly out. Ill bypass it for now with 5/16 fuel line.

For the new filtration, ill be using a Racor 500FG combined water separator.

This fit nicely where the original batter was, made an oddball bracket for it to bolt to that used the flat place where the battery tray bolted-



filter installed-



Glow plug relay will live here, bolted to the outside of the climate control housing on the passenger side-



last year for a rush job the fuel pump failed on the gas setup. In an emergency I went down through the floor and replaced it in about 30 minutes instead of dropping the huge tank these things have. After that I just lay plywood over it, with the intention of making an access hatch, which I will do for this project long term. Pulled out the fuel pump and got rid of the final 2 gallons of gasoline that was still in there. Replumbed with straight line where the pump was, but may do a diesel only standpipe later



question, can anyone name what this fitting is on the power steering for high pressure?

I have low pressure worked out, but I don't have the fitting itself for this engine. Have visited a lot of placed so far without success for this specific fitting

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(FYI, sorry about pic sizes, they are all supposed to be 640x480 but for some reason photobucket displays them larger in the link. Their upgrade is a mess)

vac temporarily hooked up, no modification to stock GM line apart from cutting and moving the check valve closer. I will need to add the circuit for shut off




also have the oil filter location mounted. Just waiting on a new oil cooler from summit right now, then I can get the three lines made up that I need. I probably already mentioned in this thread, but this moroso head has a provision for a pressure gauge outlet, and a small secondary output I can use for turbo oiling. With the exception of not having an oil thermostat, I should be able to do everything else that the stock oil filter did.
Was looking to adapt the MB oil cooler, but the one I have is so beat up it seems a waste of time making custom line ends to fit on it, so I went with a new one that already has NPT ports on it I can easily adapt to -10 AN

easy access-



one short line might be a bit cramped between the plate and filter head, but worst case scenario, I make a longer one and loop around-

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Today made some progress on hydraulics-

brakes hooked up as it was. There was a lot of rusty damaged line, so I just recreated it with mostly new hardware and following the same areas that the stock lines used to generally



brake side-



junction area-



also hooked up the clutch line. Im not totally happy with the number of connections I made in this line, a total of 5 pieces with that many possible leaks, but I adapted the fittings on both the slave and master to regular brake line, then used a generic flex line from some unknown application to compensate for vibration. Im considering building a solid bracket for the body side of this flex line to limit broken hard line issues over time



also decided to pull the 25 gallon fuel tank, here it looks pretty good under its protective plastic shielding-



but its pretty badly surface rusted, it was empty and easy to handle, so ive pulled it to refinish it with rust converter




also this allowed me to get rid of all this rusted fuel and brake line above. Im going full rubber for the fuel lines instead. And I have the obligatory rusted out rear brake line above the fuel tank id really just felt like removing. Ive never owned a single astro where this line was still intact. Everyone runs the line through the tank straps



notice this vice grip! ive owned this van for years and never noticed it



all the parking brakes have been ripped out up to the pedal for the eventual installation of a handbrake

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so cleaned up and refinished the top of the fuel tank with rust converter. Fortunately, though it was pretty rusted, it was not through anywhere, should last a good long time with this treatment. Once it dries Ill pull the bottom shield and do that side and reinstall




also my oil cooler arrived! plenty of space for it where the A/C was on this van-



Made a path through the radiator side shielding for the cooler lines, and mounted it in front. This cooler is approximately 2/3rds the size of the MB cooler, but the lines are travelling another foot and a half to get to it so Im hoping for about the same effect in cooling, plus this is way more advanced in design. If I find it inadequate, the way ive set it up means I can go with a larger unit from the same manufacturer and use the same basic brackets, only adding one piece. As it stands its very strong, doesn't need any further bracing



With the oil cooler what stands to be completed next is oil lines, and turbo final installation with all the bits, including feed line and drain lines. Once thats done and fuel is hooked up (pics to come of that), im wiring, throttle, and power steering away from ready to test drive. Power steering im going to do after the test, ill cut the belt for now until I have lines worked out

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Can you not move the oil cooler out of the way of the radiator? I'm a bit concerned that it will act like a blockage for both coolers...

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

shouldn't be a problem, its 3.5 inches away from the radiator, and this was where the A/C condenser was originally, which was also mounted a lot closer to the rad and covered in in entirety.

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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr.

So that's why cars with air conditioning run a little hot!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

todays update-

The underside of the fuel tank was crispy, but not terrible, with the exception of one area where it was pretty rusty, but not through fortunately




refinished ready for installation. Glad I went through with this, I doubt this tank had another winter before it rusted through, especially on the top-

bottom-


top with plastic shield installed-


oil system all hooked up with the exception of the turbo feed line, though I did have the opportunity today to get that made, so I should hopefully get things put together this weekend for the turbo side.
cooler-



lines run by the fuel filter, and you can see here my shut off valve for fuel on the inlet side of the filter-



moroso head. I can't say enough about how nice this oil filter head is, you can see here the small port on the top ill be using for turbo feed, and the port in the middle front will eventually be for my oil pressure gauge.

The way I have this plumbed flow wise is engine, cooler, filter, back to engine. The reason is just in case any crap in the cooler gets dumped downstream, the filter will pick it up before it gets to the motor

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tank back up-



fuel pump removed and sender unit reinstalled-




also fill neck drilled out to accept the large diesel nozzle-




Fuel lines are all run with the exception of priming needing to happen still-




return line I needed to make this little brass T to compensate for where the return used to go to the stock fuel filter top. 3/16 for the return, 1/4 for the injection pump return, and 5/16 back to the tank



Installed- I may rework this and permanently mount this nicely after I work out power steering, but for now its zip tied to the dip stick. secure there fortunately. Ive also replumbed running outlet from the lift pump directly into inlet for injection pump. I may also put a small inline filter here as well, but for now it should be fine

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