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  #1  
Old 03-31-2013, 08:51 PM
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No Power and Very Slow Acceleration, Retarded Timing?

Just finished putting an OM617.951 into my Jeep and took it out for a drive. In park/neutral, it will rev up and sounds great. However, when in gear, i can floor it and it just really really slowly accelerates. It eventually gets up to speed, but it takes awhile. There is basically no acceleration. The boost only gets up to like 5psi before it shifts.

I tried with and without the the ALDA hooked up, no difference. Also, I have 3.07 gears with 32" tires and an auto trans. I screwed up the timing when I pulled the IP before I installed the motor, but I reset the timing to 26BTDC by rotating the crank to 13ATDC and then rotating the IP until the slot lined up in the AB Light hole. If i have timing chain stretch, does that mean that I may have actually set it to less than 26BTDC?

Does this sound like it could be the timing? Would retarded timing cause really slow acceleration? I had started another thread before I drove it about it shaking at idle, so maybe the shaking and poor acceleration are related?

I unfortunately do not know how it ran previously, but it supposedly has 156k miles and runs "great" according to the salvage yard i bought it from. The rack damper bolt is turned all the way in as well.

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  #2  
Old 03-31-2013, 08:54 PM
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Does the ALDA receive a signal from the intake, if a turbo unit? The line may be clogged.

If not, the fuel will be limited.
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  #3  
Old 03-31-2013, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowbrd84 View Post
If i have timing chain stretch, does that mean that I may have actually set it to less than 26BTDC?
Setting the IP timing completely eliminates the effect of chain elongation with respect to the crankshaft/IP relationship. (The crankshaft/valve timing relationship is another story.)
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  #4  
Old 03-31-2013, 09:07 PM
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It is a turbo. The ALDA and the boost gauge are on the same line, so the ALDA is getting the same signal. When I step on the gas, the boost builds very very slowly just like the acceleration.

Would 32" tires and 3.07 gears possibly be the reason for really slow acceleration?
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  #5  
Old 03-31-2013, 09:33 PM
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Does it have new fuel filters? Does it smoke when accelerating?
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  #6  
Old 03-31-2013, 09:53 PM
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two brand new fuel filters, i dont see any smoke when i accelerate. I see a very very faint smoke at idle.
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  #7  
Old 03-31-2013, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowbrd84 View Post
Just finished putting an OM617.951 into my Jeep and took it out for a drive. In park/neutral, it will rev up and sounds great. However, when in gear, i can floor it and it just really really slowly accelerates. It eventually gets up to speed, but it takes awhile. There is basically no acceleration. The boost only gets up to like 5psi before it shifts.

I tried with and without the the ALDA hooked up, no difference. Also, I have 3.07 gears with 32" tires and an auto trans. I screwed up the timing when I pulled the IP before I installed the motor, but I reset the timing to 26BTDC by rotating the crank to 13ATDC and then rotating the IP until the slot lined up in the AB Light hole. If i have timing chain stretch, does that mean that I may have actually set it to less than 26BTDC?

Does this sound like it could be the timing? Would retarded timing cause really slow acceleration? I had started another thread before I drove it about it shaking at idle, so maybe the shaking and poor acceleration are related?

I unfortunately do not know how it ran previously, but it supposedly has 156k miles and runs "great" according to the salvage yard i bought it from. The rack damper bolt is turned all the way in as well.
This was when the Engine was in My Mercedes when I first got it. I had similar symptoms.
It turned out the Throttle Linkages were so sloppy when stepped on the Accelerator Pedal the Throttle Arm on the Fuel Injection Pump was not moving far enough.
Just like you once the Car was speed was built up it ran normally but accelerating it was scary slow.
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  #8  
Old 04-01-2013, 12:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowbrd84 View Post
I screwed up the timing when I pulled the IP before I installed the motor, but I reset the timing to 26BTDC by rotating the crank to 13ATDC and then rotating the IP until the slot lined up in the AB Light hole. If i have timing chain stretch, does that mean that I may have actually set it to less than 26BTDC?

Does this sound like it could be the timing? Would retarded timing cause really slow acceleration? I had started another thread before I drove it about it shaking at idle, so maybe the shaking and poor acceleration are related?

I unfortunately do not know how it ran previously, but it supposedly has 156k miles and runs "great" according to the salvage yard i bought it from. The rack damper bolt is turned all the way in as well.

If you screwed up the IP timing, you also screwed up the cam timing. You've correctly set the IP timing, but the cam could easily be off by one tooth. Use the dial guage procedure to check the cam timing and see what you find.

Your symptoms are likely related to a late camshaft unless you've got fuel problems (insufficient fuel due to a weak lift pump, or clogged filters).
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  #9  
Old 04-01-2013, 08:17 AM
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I do need to check camshaft timing. I read through a thousand pages last night and I am hoping I can solved three problem by turning the alda adjustment. The little black cap is still on and it has never been adjusted. I also likely need a new rack damper bolt.
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  #10  
Old 04-01-2013, 08:32 AM
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start with the easiest and least costly possibilities.

I would wager on a lack of fuel. Kinked line, or even air leak, but the throttle could be the issue.

1) does the throttle linkage allow for full travel. Have someone "floor" the accelerator pedal and see if the linkage goes all the way to the stop. Actually this is the most likely culprit. If it does go all the way to the stop, then it's a fuel issue, not enough getting.

It's real easy for an engine to rev up without a load, on virtually no fuel, but add a load, and you got to add a whole bunch of fuel.
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  #11  
Old 04-01-2013, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowbrd84 View Post
I do need to check camshaft timing. I read through a thousand pages last night and I am hoping I can solved three problem by turning the alda adjustment. The little black cap is still on and it has never been adjusted.
I seriously doubt that the ALDA is the source of your issue.

If you want to make a quick check, just remove the ALDA and plug the hose. Without it, you get full fuel the moment you press the pedal down. It should smoke under this condition.
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  #12  
Old 04-01-2013, 08:40 AM
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The throttle does get full travel. Brand new throttle cable and all. I have it hooked to the "Stop" lever and it pulls it all the way... I suppose it could be lack of fuel, I will try running a 5/16 line into a 1 gal diesel can straight to the lift pump.
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  #13  
Old 04-01-2013, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
I seriously doubt that the ALDA is the source of your issue.

If you want to make a quick check, just remove the ALDA and plug the hose. Without it, you get full fuel the moment you press the pedal down. It should smoke under this condition.
I read a couple different threads with guys that had the same exact problem and turning the alda a half turn ccw made it completely go away. I have no idea, its worth a dugout and really easy to try anyways
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  #14  
Old 04-01-2013, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by snowbrd84 View Post
I read a couple different threads with guys that had the same exact problem and turning the alda a half turn ccw made it completely go away. I have no idea, its worth a dugout and really easy to try anyways
The ALDA restricts fuel at lower rpm's where the boost is not present. Once you get some boost, the ALDA begins to retract and add more fuel.

In your case, the problem appears to be more severe and isn't simply a driveability issue at low rpm's.

Either the ALDA isn't functioning at all (which is why removing it for a test is recommended) or the problem is elsewhere.
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  #15  
Old 04-01-2013, 09:09 AM
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By removing, you mean physically removing the alda? So not just disconnecting it from the intake? By turning the alda adjustment ccw, are you then giving more fuel at lower rpm?

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