Well, I got my lca out. knocked out the ball joint (and almost myself when the socket flew up and hit me right above the eye) I knew I should have spent a little more time looking for my face shield. Anyway. The LCA isn't extremely rusty, but was thinking of painting it with something to help protect it. I've seen a zinc/galvanizing type paint used. I have some rustoleum here and some 'rust former' primer by the same brand. Would this be ok? Is there a reason not to use this stuff?

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1985 300d smoke silver/red int. (204k) <--Sadie the 80's Mercedes from Hades!
1985 300TD 587 cabernet red/155 Creme (143k)
2007 Ford Expedition EL (54k)

"Seems to me you bought a hobby... not a car" - My dad.

Rust-Oleum does an acceptable job once it fully dries (takes months).

Personally, POR-15 is, by far, the most superior coating that I have ever encountered. It's expensive as hell but worth every penny.

X2 POR.

I replaced the lower BJ`s, upper Control arms and installed a thicker front Sway/Tortion Bar. stripped down the bar and the Steering knuckle to bare metal, the painted 2 coats of POR. it will hold up much better than anything else from rocks, debris etc...

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

why waste time to clean to metal if you're going to POR-15 it? I thought the whole point was to "paint over rust"

I didn`t say mine were rusty. As I remember the POR is to protect the metal and I seem to remember the paint adhears to the metal to protect it from rusting, and to cover and seal off any existing rust from moisture. If you are applying the POR over painted surfaces, it isn`t doing it`s comple job it was designed to do.

Also using POR metal Ready etches the metal to give the paint a tooth to help it bite into. MR is actually phosphoric acid as I recall reading.

Anyway, this is what I did, I enjoy usless time wasted activities to achieve the end results I hope to accomplish.

you don`t have to do like I did, do it however you want.


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Rustoleum works just fine. For my winter cars, non visible from the outside areas get a spray of what ever color shows up at the discount store.

Please expand on this suggestion. Do you just spray the entire underbody, suspension, driveline, etc. As I have access to plenty of Rustoleum in spray and brush form. T.I.A. for any reply.

That's the first bit of advertising - if you read the small print it says to remove as much rust as possible and then apply their special de-greaser and then the acid zinc stuff and then the POR-15 black paint that we all know and love and then if the POR-15 is in contact with sunlight (UV) it needs to be coated with their chassis top coat...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Everything except for engine / trans / exhaust / rubber hoses gets painted. Wash under body with a hose, let dry, wire brush , let dry for weeks if possible, then spray everything with paint. Be sure to get in all the seams as this is where rust starts.

Once the paint has dried, I follow up with diesel fuel / generic oil mix in a garden sprayer. I use new oil not acidy used motor oil, I frequently come across hydraulic oil that has been removed from various machines. 2 QT of the mix seems to be enough, I even spray under hood and door seam areas.

This procedure is used every year to keep my oh so rusty winter truck going.

The first time you paint, some rust will bubble through in a year, scrape this and paint again. The next year less rust will pop up, after a few go rounds the rust will be held at bay.

Even if you use some sort of wonder rust treatment / paint, you will be retouching up in a years time anyway.

My paint supply comes from dollar stores that have odd rustolem colors at $ 2.50 a spray can. A can of black is used to touch up areas visible when the car is on the ground.

I used the rustoleum rust former primer stuff. I could have used some sparkle blue paint, or the hand hammered copper... That'd look pretty cool actually.

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1985 300d smoke silver/red int. (204k) <--Sadie the 80's Mercedes from Hades!
1985 300TD 587 cabernet red/155 Creme (143k)
2007 Ford Expedition EL (54k)

"Seems to me you bought a hobby... not a car" - My dad.

Well I've heard of under hood bling but that's probably going too far!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I like Rust Destroyer. You can get in spray cans at Home Depot for $11 or buy in quart cans at paint shops (~$22, list in website). It can etch bare metal, including aluminum, plus convert rust. Claimed good to 800 F, so I used to prime a block. So far, I have not had it fail on any surface, including alum window frames on my trailer left outside. The only issue is best to a week before topcoat. I got some wrinkled spots in an epoxy top coat once when I waited their claimed 72 hours at 70 F.

I used Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator (3 coats) and then their Chassis Black paint (3 coats) on my rear lower control arms:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/303427-w126-trailing-arm-rear-lower-control-arm-rebuilt-replacement.html

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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k

I've had good luck with dollar bin spraypaint, as well as red oxide primer.

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment