Greetings all-

I've searched and read, searched and read. Came up empty handed. What is the best way to measure injection timing without the special Mercedes tool?

I think I'm at about 35 degrees btdc - obviously I need to correct this.

Thanks!

For the majority of the injector pumps it is probably best to follow this procedure

PeachPartsWiki: How to Set IP Timing via the Drip Tube Method

If you have an IP from about 1984 onewards then you can use the A-B timing light method => figuring it out by looking for a notch on the IP cam. If you have the later type pump then I and others can point you in the right direction for this.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
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I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Hello,

I just got a AVL Bund 875 ! I am incredibly excited about using it. I am just missing the 6.00mm piezo transducer. Hopefully, I will have that shortly and I can post some pictures. This is the cadilac of timing diesel engine tools. I just need to translate the instruction booklet from German to English ... LOL

I've been looking for a source for the official data for the use of a dynamic timing device for some time. Do you have it? (I know that people say it should be about 10 degrees BTDC but me being me - being a bit pedantic (only a bit mind you!) - I'd like to see an official source)

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

The device will tell you exactly what your timing is as it reads the "pulse" from the IP. As to what it should be set at, then I am thinking there is the FSM answer OR you can adjust it to your preferance. I broke down and bought this because:

1. I had no idea how to mechanically time the IP;
2. I could not find any instructions of DYI on how to step by step do the IP or at least anything that made sense to me;
4. I wanted to be able to precisely time the IP;
5. Relocating the oil filter assembly shortly so I can actually easily manipulate the pump to exactly dial in where I want it;
6. I got some pictures on my Sleeper Part Deux thread of the device; and,
7. Since I have mastered most maintenance, e.g., injectors, et cet., I wanted to master this aspect of the car. I am thinking that burning WVO will require a non-FSM answer when it comes to IP timing, but it will be shade or nuance. I want to be able to time the IP easily, swap out my injectors every six months, do the valves every six months, since these cars are marvels of engineering when they are precisely tuned.

So, you can buy these at TinyTach or Ebay when they pop up. Sorry to partially hi-jack your thread, but these tools can be bought -- just a little pricey, but it answers a lot of maintenance questions and issues.


The nice thing about the Bund 875 (or any timing device) is the ability to get precise and super fast readings.

TinyTach sells the same device for around $400-$500. I got mine Bund off Ebay and got a great deal. This is apparently NOS but was missing one cable which I have to source.

It's not that simple. The FSM specifies the crankshaft angle for "start of delivery." The "pulse" occurs later.

Just find an old injector line, cut it, bend it and make a drip tube. No special tools necessary. Follow most any manual or procedure found on this site for the drip method. It works great.

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I don't know if this is true or not but you would think that if the Instructions are not specific for the Mercedes Engine you plan to use it on come with the Device you would need to Drip Timo or use one of the other Mercedes authorized Methods to sort of Calibrate your device.

After that you are good to go.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I've never dripped an IP. It was always full flow or nothing. I would just get to full flow, start the engine and adjust in and out until it was right.

60x is so much easier. loosen, set it, lock it, tighten. Done. No fuel no mess no headache no ruining of hand pumps.

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A Member from another Fourm posted the info in the pic below. You can look up the section number in that German Manual you have and see what is there for your Engine.

Also some where in the Manual it give the max amount of degrees the Timer will change the timing and at what rpm you reach that.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

That was Govert wasn't it (on BW)?

If so I've seen that - thanks. The system involved is essentially a glorified version of the A-B timing light method but with the engine running. It only measures mechanical positions of the parts within the IP and not the whole system (i.e. IP and injector) which would be a measurement of the point of delivery (which is what greazzer's system will do). As mentioned by qwerty this is a different thing from begin of delivery; so far other people on this forum have observed that when using this type of equipment point of delivery (NOT begin of delivery) is between 15 and 10 degrees before TDC.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Thank you folks! This is pretty much what I did. I'll refine my system a bit.

Hopefully some day I'll be able to repay you all for the help. This project would have taken me a LOT more time and money without you folks.

Don't worry! We've all started from somewhere. You'll see plenty of opportunities to pay us back. Everyone knows different things and will bring something to the party sooner or later.

I expect that the procedure has been documented on this forum numerous times. One real plain explanation of the procedure is the W123 diesel Haynes Manual. Many versions of the Haynes for other cars are not that good, but the one they did for this car is actually quite good IMHO.

__________________
2001 SLK 320 six speed manual
2014 Porsche Cayenne six speed manual

Annoy a Liberal, Read the Constitution