I am getting ready to do the front crank seal, what is the deal with these balancer disc dowels, I read they are to be changed, why? Can they be reused?

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1982 300sd, new project car to restore

It doesn't matter if you know what you're doing, as long as you look like you know what you're doing.

Make damn sure you follow the FSM on how to do it or you will end up with a new engine (crank).

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

What's the issue? I just slapped it all back together like 1-2-3

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

I have seen a mechanic do it and those dowels are a one time use item only hammered in as the last item and then sawed off flush. Doing it otherwise ruins the crank snout as they can walk out of their slides.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

I'll be looking into this before the engine goes for more than a test drive.

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

These dowels are meant to be fit only once items because when you fit them it is possible that some of their diameter gets shaved off when fitting, or they get a bit distorted. They are of a softer metal than the bits in which they fit.

The other problem with them is that they have been supplied quite recently from the dealer at the wrong length - I suggest you cut them to the correct length before fitting if needed.

When fitting the dowels make sure that you've got the holes aligned properly. Take your time with this and you'll shave less off!

If you bash the dowels too hard when fitting you'll mushroom the ends and they won't fit.

Make sure that the ends of the dowels are slightly below the surface of the crank and balancer.

Make sure you fit the three spring washers the correct way round (OM617 engine - see FSM)

Make sure you've got the flywheel clamped securely before you try and apply that mega torque on the nut.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Great, thanks for the info. I guess i know what I'm NOT doing tomorrow. Need to source these dowels now.

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1982 300sd, new project car to restore

It doesn't matter if you know what you're doing, as long as you look like you know what you're doing.

Devils advocate; what if He gets the new Dowels and the slide in easily?

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

It shouldn't happen but if it does I reckon it would be because of oval holes where there should be round. In the case of oval holes - if that was confirmed - then I guess the best solution would be to ream out "one size" bigger and get someone to make up some custom dowels. This would be someone who at least could measure the hardness of the dowels to try and make some approximate and appropriate replacement part...

...this person would probably be some old chap in a bad mood who lives in a shed and hates CNC machines...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Did the seal on my 616. Re-used dowels. Drove it a few years more. Balancer is snug as a bug on an engine stand. Swapped the engine out for oil use.

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CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

If the Holes are round and the pins slide in with no side play. Being the Mercedes Heritic that I am I would likely get some Sand Paper and rough up the OD of the Pin and the ID of the Bore; degrease with Brake Cleaner and coat the ID and OD with JB Weld Epoxy and insert them.

Wip off the excess and torque Crank Bolt.

If you needed to remove the Pins later you would likey need to drill and tap the Pins; heat them with a Propane Torch and use a Slide Hammer to pull the Pins out.

At one time Lictite used to make some Red Jelly that came in a Tube for things that had a sloppy fit on shafts. If that is available that would work and be easier to remove as it does not take as much heat to loosen it as the Epoxy would.

I am actually suprised that when People drill the Damper for oversize Pins that it works well.

Because when you drill with a hand held Drill Motor the Hole tends to wander a bit.

When We did that sort of thing where I used to work you drilled the Hole a little undersized and used a Reamer to enlarge the Hole to the proper size.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

You should be very fussy with the harmonic balancer installation. The design overall is not that strong.. Usually results in the replacement of the engine if it shears and spins.

The new pins supplied being a little longer got my interest but I did not talk to Mercedes about it. There may be a reason they have done this that is not obvious. Advanced fuel timing seems to increase the shock loading on the harmonic balance I personally believe as well.