Niggly Stuff - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Adriel · #1 06-08-2013, 11:34 PM

Been a productive weekend! So, have a few questions.

Changed the oil plus filter, and could not find a new crush washer with the filter. So like to get one for it, and a few other common sizes. What size is the drain plug and some of the other copper washers?

How about lock washers? Any sizes that one should have on hand?

What oil pressure is preferred at idle? Tram was concerned going from Castrol Edge Syntec 5w-50 to 15W-40 in the desert, but from my year of autoshop, all looks fine as at about 30 P.S.I.. All I could find in dyno. Not divulging why until I have data.

Ever since I have owned the Mercedes I have been plagued with the engine dampeners not staying tight. There is no built in place to hold them so as the nut can be fully tightened. Are there dampeners still available that have this? Or, is the engine shutting off too hard? Mounts look fine, and I.I.R.C. were replaced at some point. I am just tired of hearing the engine shifting in the engine compartment while driving and clunking on shut down!

Any reason why a window switch would mostly cure itself? Used to not work unless you poked it over and over. Now most times just push and the window goes up (down isn't an issue). If it doesn't, a few clicks gets it working.

Over all, enjoying the Mercedes and her quirks!

To boot, getting at least 27 M.P.G. and several tanks over 36M.P.G.!

For the first time ever owning any auto, I got asked what year and got complemented up and down. So surprised that once I left the light, realized I forgot my manners...

She is filthy as has not had a bath in over a week, no wax, and still got complemented!

Stretch · #2 06-09-2013, 03:16 AM

Idle oil pressure should be above 1 bar there is an official limit but I can't find it in the FSM at the moment...

...it is in there somewhere...

...the main thing to remember is that it should spring up to 3 bar when you make the engine spin faster. (More rpms)

If the engine dampers are not staying tight (I assume there is some sort of locking being used here?) I'd check the engine mounts - they might seem like they are OK when really they are not.

Adriel · #3 06-09-2013, 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

Idle oil pressure should be above 1 bar there is an official limit but I can't find it in the FSM at the moment...

...it is in there somewhere...

...the main thing to remember is that it should spring up to 3 bar when you make the engine spin faster. (More rpms)

If the engine dampers are not staying tight (I assume there is some sort of locking being used here?) I'd check the engine mounts - they might seem like they are OK when really they are not.

Stretch, thank you for the reply!

Yep, one bar is what I recall too, so no need to thump me with the manual.

Pressure is 1.5 to 2 bar at idle, at least 3 cruising, and pegged at higher speed.

All the dampeners have is a nut. Should I be using a lock washer and/or thread locker? Not enough thread to drill and safety wire.

I have experience with mounts looking alright and not... The Volvo engine was moved to a 15 degree incline by a mechanic! No clunks so leaving them alone.

How much of a pain is it to swap out engine mounts?

Diesel911 · #4 06-09-2013, 12:23 PM

If you take your Window Switches apart you will see that the Contacts Points are burned. The burned does not conduct Electricity well and creats a resistance and gets hot. Sometimes in getting hot it burns down to some fress Metal; enough so that your Window Works.

Also Pull the Window Fuese Completey out and inspect the tips and the area on the Fuse Brackets were the tips contact.

Behind the Instrument Cluster is a Power Window Realy. I have not read of anyone replacing one yet so I don't know the Symptoms. Except that the Power Window Realy itself shares a Fuse with some other Components (see your Fuse Chart); on mine I think it is the #12 Fuse.

I took the Driverside Switches apart and scraped the burned crap off with a small Pocket knife and that has been working for at least 5 years. The mistake I made was not to do the other 2 at the same time and 3 months later I had issues with them.

There is plelnty of information on the Motor Mount replacement. The Transmission Mount should Also be replaced as they all work together.
Original Mercedes Motor Mounts from the Mercedes Dealer at $115 each for My 1984 300D are made by Phoenix and made in Turkey; LEMFÖRDER/Lemfoerder/Lemforder buys the Mounts and grinds off the Mercedes Star but the Phoenix Logo is still there.

So Original Mercedes = Phoenix= LEMFÖRDER/Lemfoerder/Lemforder. I believe the LEMFÖRDER/Lemfoerder/Lemforder mounts can be had for $26 or less if you shop around.

When you speak about the Crank Damper I am not sure if you are speking of the main Crankshaft Bolt and Dowel Pin comming loose or the Outer part of the Crank Damper having issues.

I have had no issues with Mine but if there is Rubber made into it overtightend Belts and Oil leaks shorten the life of them.

I am sure who but one our Member speculated that if your Injectors are not performing correctly you have some Cylinders carrying more or the load than others and that has an effect on the Crankshaft.

When My Car was shaking it took a Valve adjusment, rebuilding the Injectors, the 3 mounts changed and an New Governor Idle/Rack Damper Pin to cure it. And, fix a tiny Air leak.
In My Case the Engine Snock Mouts were still good.

Adriel · #5 06-10-2013, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

If you take your Window Switches apart you will see that the Contacts Points are burned. The burned does not conduct Electricity well and creats a resistance and gets hot. Sometimes in getting hot it burns down to some fress Metal; enough so that your Window Works.

Also Pull the Window Fuese Completey out and inspect the tips and the area on the Fuse Brackets were the tips contact.

Behind the Instrument Cluster is a Power Window Realy. I have not read of anyone replacing one yet so I don't know the Symptoms. Except that the Power Window Realy itself shares a Fuse with some other Components (see your Fuse Chart); on mine I think it is the #12 Fuse.

I took the Driverside Switches apart and scraped the burned crap off with a small Pocket knife and that has been working for at least 5 years. The mistake I made was not to do the other 2 at the same time and 3 months later I had issues with them.

There is plelnty of information on the Motor Mount replacement. The Transmission Mount should Also be replaced as they all work together.
Original Mercedes Motor Mounts from the Mercedes Dealer at $115 each for My 1984 300D are made by Phoenix and made in Turkey; LEMFÖRDER/Lemfoerder/Lemforder buys the Mounts and grinds off the Mercedes Star but the Phoenix Logo is still there.

So Original Mercedes = Phoenix= LEMFÖRDER/Lemfoerder/Lemforder. I believe the LEMFÖRDER/Lemfoerder/Lemforder mounts can be had for $26 or less if you shop around.

When you speak about the Crank Damper I am not sure if you are speking of the main Crankshaft Bolt and Dowel Pin comming loose or the Outer part of the Crank Damper having issues.

I have had no issues with Mine but if there is Rubber made into it overtightend Belts and Oil leaks shorten the life of them.

I am sure who but one our Member speculated that if your Injectors are not performing correctly you have some Cylinders carrying more or the load than others and that has an effect on the Crankshaft.

When My Car was shaking it took a Valve adjusment, rebuilding the Injectors, the 3 mounts changed and an New Governor Idle/Rack Damper Pin to cure it. And, fix a tiny Air leak.
In My Case the Engine Snock Mouts were still good.

Thank you for the help!

Were you tired when you responded? There are errors, including changing engine to crankshaft. Glad for something, as seems this forum has gone down the drain. Keep having questions which can't be answered.

Fuses are all new. Rather not mess with the cover as delicate and a pain to get out.

For injectors, I would want a way to test in place before I go making a mess. They were just rebuilt with N.O.S. Bosch tips so VERY much doubt them. However, I could believe compression difference causing slight imbalance. I do have a cloud coming out of the crank case especially obvious since my breather pipe keeps breaking. N.L.A. so got an idea for making it better just need to sit down and work out the details and order the bits.

Valve adjustment is do at 3,000 miles so rather do that at the same time as the oil.

Rack damper was replaced and did turn it out two in winter. Hate to go further and mess something up.

How would an air leak affect the engine? I can understand vacuum, but pressure? Vacuum lines are on the list but maybe need to be done sooner.

SD Blue · #6 06-10-2013, 09:29 AM

I'm betting the air leak mentioned was in the fuel system.

For smoother idle, the most effective action taken on mine was a very thorough valve adjustment. In fact, even more effective was another adjustment about 200 miles later.

A much needed valve adjustment may be causing a rougher shut down as well.

Adriel · #7 06-10-2013, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SD Blue

I'm betting the air leak mentioned was in the fuel system.

For smoother idle, the most effective action taken on mine was a very thorough valve adjustment. In fact, even more effective was another adjustment about 200 miles later.

A much needed valve adjustment may be causing a rougher shut down as well.

Thank you so much for the reply!

Air in the fuel does make more since. I recall Tram for some reason saying the plastic fuel lines were fine despite being brown. Maybe I should change them out? I mean, what is there to loose?

Well, guess it could not hurt to do a valve adjustment twice. Does sound different since I over heated the poor girl. The axillary fan didn't kick on causing it to over heat. That is why I am frustrated absolutely no one knows anything about the W123 auxiliary fan. If I can't find anything will just cut and splice. Hate to do it, but have to do something to keep things working. Service dog does like her A/C but I like the warm weather and have yet to shed my thermals.

SD Blue · #8 06-10-2013, 10:22 AM

On the W126 series, and the W123 is probably the same in this respect, the electric aux. fan is controlled by the air conditioning system. More specifically, the temperature switch on the reciever-drier. I've read where one person changed the temperature switch to a pressure switch to have more advanced engagement of the aux. fan and better a/c operation. I'm thinking of doing the same for mine, eventually.

The main engine cooling is done by the engine-driven fan on the front of the engine. Have you determined what caused your overheating? Most of the overheating/high temp reports, I've seen here, are due to radiator issues.

Adriel · #9 06-10-2013, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SD Blue

On the W126 series, and the W123 is probably the same in this respect, the electric aux. fan is controlled by the air conditioning system. More specifically, the temperature switch on the reciever-drier. I've read where one person changed the temperature switch to a pressure switch to have more advanced engagement of the aux. fan and better a/c operation. I'm thinking of doing the same for mine, eventually.

The main engine cooling is done by the engine-driven fan on the front of the engine. Have you determined what caused your overheating? Most of the overheating/high temp reports, I've seen here, are due to radiator issues.

Apparently it is not the same, as there is a relay (which is new), temperature sensor in the block (passed the test), and pressure switch (new). At this point, I am really thinking the fan is bad but I.I.R.C. could not find the connector and/or the inline resistor. For the Volkswagen there is wiring diagrams galore, but for some reason Mercedes keeps theirs a secret! Very maddening, as if I had one could trace circuits/understand how it flows.

The fan was on, but was testing the A/C in a hot garage goosing the engine to get the compressor on. If the fan had kicked on would have been obvious she was getting too hot. I really like to upgrade to a metal fan but thought first get the auxiliary fixed.

Really, what would make a radiator bad? All it does is have water flow though.

Adriel · #10 06-10-2013, 03:01 PM

Another thing that has been bugging me: non-working washer system. Had to take the bottle out for putting in the hitch so before I put it back, tested the motor and passed. Blew on the line and plugged solid. Any ideas?

Adriel · #11 06-14-2013, 01:20 PM

Today is dedicated to quality time with the Mercedes. Woke up late then had to fiddle with the dishwasher.

Anyway, found I have about an inch and a half of 3/9 play on the driver's side and an inch on the passenger's side. Is it just tie rods, or could it also be the idler? I.I.R.C. Tram only replaced the L.C.A. bushings.

Thank you all in advance!

SD Blue · #12 06-14-2013, 01:50 PM

Probably tie rods but it's hard to say without monitoring the components from underneath when force is applied by a helper.

Adriel · #13 06-14-2013, 07:45 PM

Well, I guess I will have courage and show the video I made for Tram.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVlSPYmHk7E&feature=em-upload_owner
Too me, sure looks like tie road ends!

Just realized I forgot to check the auxiliary fan. So, jumped the fan and it works! Woot! So could make a harness with a switch, however, like it to be right. So checked that I am getting voltage to the fan, and have nothing. Now what?

Adriel · #14 06-14-2013, 10:34 PM

Tram and I have been trying to put our heads together.

What we know:
Auxiliary fan works when battery voltage applied directly.
Auxiliary fan controlled by two temperature switches, one on the block and one on the receiver/dryer. Both passed and/or are new.
Auxiliary fan affected by low refrigerant pressure.
There sounds like the refrigerant system has a leak from the expansion valve, as when the compressor comes on, there is a microsecond hiss from under the right had side of the dash.
Receiver/dryer temperature switch bypassed doesn't cause the fan to come on.
Auxiliary fan relay is new.
P3/ Relay ground (30) has no ground (one on volt meter with no reading).
6P6/ 87 has ground.
87a has 0.1 volts.

Now what?

On another note, the front wheels are off the ground. Twice now I have shut the engine off, and no clunk!

That could explain why I hear clunking during acceleration and deceleration. It is also intermittent, but mostly there. Couple times pressed on a curb with the wheel turned and clunked. I am almost ready to throw in the towel and rebuild what is bad on the suspension rather than fiddling with this and that. This month has been rough (based a financial decision on a worthless check, live and learn...).

Anyone have the link to the part number site?

Thank you so much in advance!

Stretch · #15 06-15-2013, 01:52 AM

Adriel - you're bombarding us with so many questions in this thread that I for one can't keep up! Seriously mate you're giving me a head ache - I can't focus my attention on this any more.

I'll answer the question that sticks out the most =>

Parts site

I assume you are talking about EPC over on www.startekinfo.com <= don't get confused between the free EPC and the expensive WIS

Or the "Russian" one on EverythingBenz - Mercedes-Benz Forum and Web Search Using Google

If you have a single specific question that really needs to be answered please start a new thread for it and if I think I can help I'll dive on in there and contribute.