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How much should I ask for my 79 240D?
I finally bought the truck I had been looking for yesterday, so I'm now ready to sell my 79 240D. I have no idea how much to ask for, as it is not listed in the KBB and there is a pretty great discrepancy in the prices found on CL for similar cars..
It has been in great mechanical condition for years, it is a 4-spd manual transmission with 105K miles, and looks very good (I get compliments on the car all the time). Only issues, which I should take care of as soon as I get some time on my hand, wiper rubbers need to be replaced, and I also need to replace the passenger side rear mirror (damaged by a golf ball in the golf course's parking lot). It's absolutely reliable, I wouldn't hesitate to drive it across the country. It's been a California car all of its life, totally rust-free. This is the work I did on the car about a couple of years ago: new side and rear engine mounts, new bilstein shocks on all corners, new hood release cable/handle, new rear rotors, new front and rear brake pads, valve clearance adjustment, new (all three) belts. I've done maintenance on it religiously for the past eight years..Delo 400 every three months, Redline for the transmission, Mobil 1 for the differential... What should I price it on CL?
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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior. |
#2
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Depends how quickly you want to sell it.
Never put yourself in a position where you "have" to sell a car, and when buying a car, buy from someone that "has" to sell, not someone that "wants" to sell.
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Closing the store Benzbonz.biz on your smart phone or tablet. |
#3
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Variables for cars that are this old can be tricky. As with anything, everything is for sale - at a price. It just depends on what people are willing to pay for it. This can related to a lot of things, but for our cars, here are somethings that I took into consideration when I listed my car for sale:
Market Value. Comparing your car to others in the local area will give you a starting off point as to where you want your car to be priced. This will also give an idea about how long it will take to be sold. You can price your car for $10,000. And you may get it, it will just take a long time and the correct market conditions (gas spike, for example). Condition. Being absolutely honest about how your car places with others in the market comparison. You can have a show room ready, concourse classic, but that may not be what someone else wants or can afford. Location. Depending on where you live will have different effects on the condition of the car. Rust belt cars are obviously not going to compare to an Arizona car, but then it will have to be priced depending on what the demand is. Options. Is there something different about your car when comapred to the others in the market? Having receipts and a full service history can be cruicial and a huge selling point for most (informed) buyers. Demand. When gas prices get crazy and people think that they can brew their own fuel in their garage, then the demand for diesels goes up. It depends on the timing. Unfinished Business. How many 'little things' are left to fix? If it takes 5 minutes to change out some wiper blades at a cost of $20, then do it and not have the next buyer deal with it and possibly miss out on a sale that may be closer to your asking price. Giving the buyer less of a reason to talk you down in price is what you are looking to do. If you can fix it for minimal cost for maximum return, than do it. All taken into consideration, they will ultimatly offer you below what you are asking, so get ready to add a little on the back end to make up the difference. They will want to walk away with the upper hand and feel like they really got a good deal, while you want to recover most (if not all) of your costs or at least make a little bit of profit at the end of the day. So, I'll make you and offer of $700. And you have to ship your rust free California car to Virginia! - DC Josh |
#4
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Around here that, (if it has good body, interior, and ), would go for about $3000 - $4000. I would start with $4000 and go down from there. Less-than-common color schemes (not black or white ) tend to get a little more, especially if the paint looks nice.
Of course, I have no idea what the CA market is like, so my advice is somewhat worthless...
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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes 1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod 2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die." |
#5
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Not sure what its worth but looking at a bigger picture of your car.....something is fishy, the seats in the car aren't original....they should have bat wing headrest...on that simple clue....I really question the mileage claim....unless this is actually an early 80s model and not a 1979....which would make it really a 1978...
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#6
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Thank you all....I hope to get a few more opinions before listing it on CL..
As to: Quote:
@DC Josh Thanks for the advice, and as to your offer: it's very funny @mespe I'm not in a rush to sell it. I could wait two or three months or more, plates are paid up to the end of November anyway, so basically the only cost to me for keeping it a bit longer is the monthly insurance $22.50/month + fuel. I have the oil filter (actually three of them) and the Delo 400 for the oil change scheduled at the end of this month. So, waiting a bit before selling it is not really a big deal. I want to take care of the wiper blades and mirror, though, before putting it up for sale.
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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior. Last edited by rino; 06-13-2013 at 02:52 PM. |
#7
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You could get a better estimate from the forum with more detailed pics....engine bay, interior, trunk interior.
Would also help solve the mystery of the headrests. cooljay is right, those are 1980 headrests, which makes a potential buyer start to wonder about the mileage number. I tend to take mileage figures on these cars with a pile of salt, due to the frequent failure of the odometer gearand the ease of resetting/swapping a cluster. My car could have 8k miles on it next week if I wished. I am more interested in the condition of the interior and engine when I look at w123s. Those are the expensive bits, especially in a 240d (which has few other bits besides suspension!)
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Current Mercedes 1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed Gone and fondly remembered: 1980 orient red 240D 4-speed Gone and NOT fondly remembered: 1982 Chna Blue 300TD Other car in the stable: 2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT |
#8
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Quote:
Also highly agree on the speedo's mine stop long before I got it at 150k....so when I installed the replacement I just made it read 150k even though the car probably has 250k....also a commit on the op's claim about the engine....my friend had a 240d with an amazingly shinny engine and ran smooth....it had 450k on the od...
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#9
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Same was true of my 79....just under 300k, but when I bought it, I would have eaten off of the valve cover. Could use a little wipe down now, but still looks very good at 310k
Actually, the best mileage indicator IMO is the top of the steering wheel. still really bumpy - <150k still knobby, but not so bumpy - 150-250k not knobby or bumpy (feels like a chevy!) >250k starting to melt - ??? (had a wagon like that) Much easier to replace a speedo than a steering wheel.
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Current Mercedes 1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed Gone and fondly remembered: 1980 orient red 240D 4-speed Gone and NOT fondly remembered: 1982 Chna Blue 300TD Other car in the stable: 2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT |
#10
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OK, great, I'll take pictures of everything this weekend.
One thing though, how would the shape of the headrest make you wonder about mileage? I don't quite understand the connection. I very much appreciate your feedback, guys. I'll take pictures probably this Sunday. Thanks..
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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior. |
#11
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It means the interior was switched out, a 88k mile car should still have the original interior.....if it was switched out, it means it was very worn....and you shouldn't see that on a 88k car...
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#12
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If you can prove the 105,000 miles, which I kind of doubt, then you might be looking at something well over five grand. Assuming unknown mileage and going off the condition you describe, I think you could probably get over three thousand. Since you're not in a hurry, start by asking five thousand and see what happens.
If you get desperate to sell it, I'll give you $701 and you DON'T have to ship it
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
#13
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Quote:
Quote:
__________________
"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes 1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod 2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die." |
#14
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Here are the pictures I took today
Please let me know what you think..
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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior. |
#15
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a few more coming
I have taken more than thirty today...
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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior. |
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