Well, my Volvo went kaput. Though I had planned on driving it and parting out this 240d, the fates have decided for me. I started taking apart the Volvo today. And, as the old 240d still seems (relatively) mechanically sound, I will be driving it for a while. And if you got it, build it.

I've already been pretty impressed by the ride and handling of the 240d. Neither is really astounding, but good for a car of this age that has gone through as much abuse as this one. But why not build a suspension for a car does zero to sixty while you grow a beard?

The thing is: building suspensions are fine and dandy for folks who have a lot of money. I have none, so this needs to be done as cheaply as possible. So the question is, what can be gotten from junkyards and parts cars to make the little Merc a little stiffer and a little flatter?

What I'm thinking:

Springs. I'm assuming the 300d's have thicker/stiffer front springs to hold up the heavier engine. Anyone tried them in a 240?

Usually I would assume that a wagon would have the stiffest rear springs, to hold cargo. Is this true of the W123, even though it had the hydro self leveling deal?

Shocks. I sure could use some. Suggestions?

Sway bars. I haven't even looked to see if this old thing even has sway bars.

Is there anything else that can be salvaged from another other sort of vehicle that folks have found work for them?

Bushes. Are poly bushes being produced for the W123? Anyone want to suggest a brand?

Thanks ahead of time folks.

300D front springs will probably put your front end up too high, unless you want to cut them, which will increase the spring rate. Some people here have cut springs before, with varying results. As I understand it, the wagons don't actually have rear springs, but they do have a bigger rear sway bar than the sedans.

Shocks: Bilstein HD is the way to go.

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.

I've always liked a good stock suspension if its in good repair. The 300 springs would probably make it sit very high. Wagon springs are actually smaller since they have the hydraulic struts for leveling. I'd look at the bushings and linkages on the sway bars and make sure they are all working well and buy some good used shocks from someone here. I may have a set from a car I have parted out that are still good. If you really want something stiffer some folks have cut part of a coil out of the springs, this will lower the car a little and make it stiffer. I have always liked the huge amount of wheel travel which will allow you to run over curbs at 60 mph and neither lose control or damage the car.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I wouldn't mind it being a bit lower. Nothing crazy, just a few inches. Cutting 300d springs might be a good solution, and easy since there isn't a strut. I'll just have to find out how many coils translates to how much drop in ride height.

Did the W123 ever come with manual steering?

I've gone the opposite way of you. I took 240D springs and put them in my wagon front suspension. It helped it drop about 1.5 inches. I didn't like how high it was sitting with the stock suspension. So I can only assume that it was make you shoot to the moon.

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1982 300TDT
1991 190D
2022 Metris

the front wagon sway bar is 1mm thicker (18% stiffer). i bought some universal 1" polyurethane bushings for $20. haven't installed this kit yet.

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'77 240D, 504H, OM617.952, etc.

There is different sized Spring Pads that can be used to raise and lower a little depending on what is already their.

I am not seeing the need to save Money and building the Suspension differently. If you want to save Money you would be keeping it stock.

The cheapest Suspension Parts are also the parts that don't hold up well.

I bought a front Suspension Kit from FPC Groton and it is entirely URO parts. No country of origin on them, the packages or the outer Box.

I did not use the whole kit but used the Upper Control Arms, the Lower Control Arm Bushings and for some reason a front end kit came with rear Swaybar Links that I eventually used (I have not used them yet but there is rear control Arm Bushings).

They have held up in about 5000 Miles a year of 95% city Driving for 4 years so far. All of the Tire rods and other joints have not been replaced.

Others have had the URO suspension stuff fall apart after several months.

The Car does have a Front Sway Bar and you would not be able to drive without it as it limits the forward and backwards movement of the Upper Control Arms.

I bought Gabriel Shocks for a local Mcparts store.

LEMFÖRDER/Lemfoerder/Lemforder Lower Ball Joints are made in Germany and if you shop around don't cost Much. That is what came on My Car.
They make other Suspension Parts but sellers are not as easy to find.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Carefully inspect the current suspension to determine which parts have failed then shop/search for good used replacements. Get the designed suspension in proper working order then decide if you'd like to start modding. Most folks are quite happy with the suspension in good repair. The current "feel" you don't like is most likely worn/broken parts.

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You can't always get what you want, but if you try sometime you just might find you get what you need.

Info on spring pads? Would I get them from another model Merc or is this an aftermarket thing?

Also, this is off topic, but I might as well ask here. Where is the tranny dipstick on a damn 240d?

I have an entire URO front end in my sedan I put in a few months ago. They have about 3k miles now. Good so far.

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1985 300d smoke silver/red int. (204k) <--Sadie the 80's Mercedes from Hades!
1985 300TD 587 cabernet red/155 Creme (143k)
2007 Ford Expedition EL (54k)

"Seems to me you bought a hobby... not a car" - My dad.

Is this a 4-spd manual or an automatic transmission?

Auto Dip Stick is on the right side near the Firewall, (Passenger side)

manual Trans is a plug on the side of the box. remove it, stick finger in hole.
Fluid level should be at the edge of the hole.


Springs pads come in three sizes as I remember. Fastlane had them in their catalog. Pelican Parts doesn`t show them or come up doing a search.

You will need the MB Spring Compressor to remove the springs to remove the front Springs.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

It's a manual transmission. It makes some noise when putting it into reverse, I think the fluid level is low. What fluid do these take? This is my first manual transmission car.

I would be best to check the fluid level than think you are low. these Transmissions usually use ATF. If it is red, that is ATF. Do not use heavy weight gear oil.

There is no Sychros for Reverse gear, so it will grind if you just Jamb it in to gear. Place the stick in a forward gear with the Clutch depressed, this stops the gears from spinning. Now, w/o moving the vehicle, place the stick in reverse and it will go in w/o grinding.

1st gear thru 4th gear are Synchronized. that is there are these little Brass ring things that line up the gears so you can shift w/o grinding.

HMMMM....first manual Trans, well you have a learning curve to smoothly shift
and not beat the Clutch to death.


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

That reverse issue is likely a gear selector rod out of adjustment or your slave cylinder needs to be bled or replaced. There are adjusters at the end of the shift rods. Find the one for reverse and adjust it. I cant remember if you should shorten or lengthen it, but i think you shorten it to make it go into gear better.
Definitely check the fluid. I doubt that is the issue. If it is, driving would be bad. You need a 17mm hex socket for both transmission plugs. If you drain the transmission, be sure to get the filler plug out before you do. It could be stuck. Then you wouldn't be able to fill it back up.

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Chris
84 280sl
82 300d euro

There are different sized Spring Pads just for W123. Of course there are real Mercedes parts. Since I have never been interested in changing the Spring Pads I have never paid attention to see who made them so I don't know if there is aftermarket ones.

By the way your W123 is not a rare Car.
While you often cannot go to the local Chain Store Parts places and get good quality Parts quickly there is plenty of W123 Parts on the Internet.
You just can't be in a hurry to get them.

In fact if you intend to save Money and at the same time get quality part the time spent Shopping on the internet is well worth it.

Go to one of the Internet Sellers that supplies the Mercedes Part Number and use that part number to go shopping.
There is generally the Mercedes Part number and others use the Westpack part numbers; a few Sellers have their own part numbers.

As an example; over 3 years ago when I needed a B2 Piston for My Transmission the cost ranges was from $103-$180 with one Seller wanting $203 for the same part. There is no aftermarket B2 Piston that I know of. So the difference in price did not reflect aftermarket verses genuine Mercedes (the Transmission is a made by ZF).

The other thing you are going to notice is that prices change and a place that had good prices on stuff has gone up or they have changed the quality of the parts they sell. So when you have spare time you need to take a peak at some of the sites again and see what is going on.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel