Hey guys,

I have a 1984 300D.

My trunk leaks and I'm pretty much convinced it's the rear windshield gasket. I know there's other sources of leaks, and I've already traced those on my car, but I still have one that drips from the rear windshield area. I've tried sealing it up with the flowable silicone, but the seal is just too dried/cracked. I've decided I'd like to get a genuine Mercedes seal and have it installed somewhere as I think the rear window replacement is a little out of my league.

I may remove it at my house as the removal seems to be the easier part, and it would allow me to make sure I don't have any rust under the seal.

I was wondering if anyone had ever taken their old Benz to a general auto glass place and had the rear windshield done? I'm just curious if most places are aware of the methods for installing these windshields, or if I'm going to have a hard time finding a place that can get it done. While you're at it, do you remember the name of the place you had do it? Maybe I can find a place of the same chain near me. And lastly, what did they charge you for the labor? I know in the end I'll need to call around and ask, but I'd love to hear from some people who've had the work done so I know what to expect.


Thanks guys!

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1984 Mercedes-Benz 300D

I've had the front and back done. Seems like A-1 Glass or some other easy name did it, I looked but can't find the name of who did it.

I thought mine leaked too, as I was getting a bit too much fog on the rear glass on the inside, so they came out and added some more sealant or something.

If you're getting leaking in the trunk, 2 overlooked sources are the truck seal that is clogged with gunk in it, make sure that's clean, and the other source is around the brake lights. The seals go after a while and allow water in. You might be able to use some light silicone to help shore it up, or buy new seals. I think you could also have water coming UP into the trunk, so check some port holes down under if you get water in only when driving.

Good luck on it. Finding water holes are no fun. Very annoying.

Another source of leakage can be the fuel door drain tube.

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1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather

Its actually very easy to do yourself, if you have it done by someone else.....chances are it will be all screwed up....

Just remove the 2 c panels, un hook the defroster....cut the glass out.....remove the chrome from old gasket....install new gasket around glass, press in chrome, put clothes line rope in the gasket....have a helper apply pressure on the outside......pull the rope out starting at the top center...and wa la....its installed...

Typically when a glass shop does the work.....they will attempt to hammer the chrome in last....big no no....

Also I have read that the Mercedes seals are no better then the repo's.....the mb seals have been sitting on a shelf for 20+ year and don't seem to hold up long...

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on my 300CD coupe to solve the trunk leak issue. I had Cherrydale Glass do it since coupe glass is rare and expensive.

One thing to be ready for is the extent of the leak source. In my case and I'm sure in many others, the channel seat was rusted clear through in a number of places. There was no outward sign of it but it definitely was the source of the leak. Fixable by a skilled body shop.

You can pinpoint the leak by having someone you love and trust lock you into the trunk with a flashlight then running a water hose around the rear windshield, trunk and any other possible areas of water ingress.

^^ they don't really need to lock you in...but , yeah it's a good idea to at least cut the old window out and then deal with any rust issues on your timescales. Installing the window isn't too difficult, just intimidating the first time.

Funola just lost his virginity...

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/339965-installing-back-glass-defroster-help-needed.html

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

Sure did. It was intimidating not knowing what to expect from what I've read on success and failures. I think what helped me the most was cleaning the gasket and pinch welds completely free of the old sealant, centering the glass well and seat the bottom lip well, I also lubed the inside (brush soap/water) before pulling the cord, which helped decrease friction.

Having a good gasket and glass that is made right and fits correctly is paramount.

I have a Mercedes (used) gasket in excellent condition (2 hours spent cleaning the old sealant) as well as a Mercedes glass with a bad defroster for sale. I got these extra parts to practice with before doing the good glass but ended up not taking the practice run.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

67-200 and 67-220 are the FSM articles on R&R the rear window & its trim. FYI

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'77 240D, 504H, OM617.952, etc.

I just called the local independent garage, specializing in MB's, and the dealerships for who they hired to replace glass. This gave me someone who is familiar with MB's.

Also, I watched while the work was being done so the next time, I can DIY. It's one of those jobs that seems a little intimidating the first time. Once you see it done, most who are comfortable with their own repairs feel confident with being able to do it themselves in the future.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

The rear Windshield is not to hard to remove and reinstall. Easier than the Front.
There should be threads below on that.
DIY Repair Links
DIY Links by Parts Category - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum
PeachPartsWiki: Do It Yourself Articles - Mercedes Vehicles

I removed mine because I had rust holes under the Rubber Seal.

You will need to do what is needed to expose the Rear Defroster Wires.
You need to be really careful when you disconnect the Wires so you don not pull the connector off of the Grid side of the Window.
In post #5 you will see pics of the Tools I used.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/339965-installing-back-glass-defroster-help-needed.html

I used an Old Blanket folded and laid on the Trunk incase the Glass popped out unexpectedly. And, will need someplace safe to lay the Glass while you do the other work.
In My Case once I removed the Aluminum Trim I applied the Suction Cups and starting from the top worked the Plastic body panels Tools gently under the Rubber Seal and pried out the Window Glass and then moved on to the sides.

I used the Suction Cups to pull on and eventually I was able to pull the Window out.

After that the Window seal was easy to come out as there was no Sealant that I can remember used by who ever installed it previously (I found a lot of busted Glass under the back deck and the rear Seat and believe My rear Window is a junkyard replacement).

When I installed the Window I attempted to use the Sealant to hold the Seal in and install the Window in the reverse of removal. I had trouble with the Seal coming loose but I got it installed. Again I used the Suction Cups and the Plastic Panel Tools to get it in.
However, I don't believe that is the Factory "Rope" method.

In My case I re-used the old rubber as it was still good and it seemed to be a recent replacement.

I think if you read the Threads on the Rear Window Replacement you will find that you can use the Myele Rear Window seal as the Rear Window is not as contoured and is easier to seal than the Front. But, that is your choice.

On the Front Windshield the real Mercedes one is best.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I bought suction cups from Harbor Freight but ended up not using them because I didn't trust them. Last thing I need is for them to fail and break the glass.

I removed the glass by myself with no help (at Jooseppi Luna's). I removed the aluminum trims first with a rope. With a razor cut the edges of the rubber and once you have a few inches lifted just pull on it and it comes off in a strip. Push on the glass from the inside to separate glass from the rubber and stand the glass vertical and lift it up and out.

I didn't use the suction cups either during installation of the glass for the same reason. You need one helper to lay the assembly into the opening. Much safer IMO than suction cups.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

While they may fit better than some aftermarket gaskets, I've had problems with premature aging of two factory Mercedes windsheild gaskets.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

What kind of problems? New or used? What was the ambient temp?

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

What I said about the Suction Cups was just the way that I did it. When the Glass was not actually being removed or being put back into the Rubber it was over a Blanket on the Trunk.

I did not use the Suction Cups to pick the Glass up and move it from one place to another; only when the Glass was on top of the Car.

Also I did not cut My old Seal because I needed to see if it can be reused.

When People buy genuine Mercedes parts it would be nice if they would try to identify who made them.
As an example the Steering Colum Lock I bought was made by Neiman and as it turns out Neiman/Valeo are part of the came Company and you can get them aftermarket and save a little Money.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

My '61 180 Ponton 25 yers ago and my '82 240D four years ago got new windsheilds, inluding new gaskets from the Mercedes dealer. Both gaskets fit perfectly, but after a year or two of exposure to sun & weather, both started cracking at the corners.
I'd like to seal the cracks on the 240D asket with some kind of silicone, but I'm now thinking about getting the car re-painted so....

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW