Test driving a car now need a fast answer! - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

davidlee · #31 07-09-2013, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooljjay

Yes the rheostat behind the gauge cluster is bad. It controls all the dash lights. You can simply bridge the 2 contacts with a wire and solder or spend like 60$ for a new one.

$60 ?!?! DAMN!
The one for my 124 was only like $28 or so, but then instal was another $40 so I guess thats what I paid last time..

What is the trick to popping the cluster out of a 123? Im probably going to just bypass it like you mentioned.

And once again THANKS for all the helpful advise!!!!!!!!

cooljjay · #32 07-09-2013, 04:57 PM

Yeh, I can't even seem to find them anymore...maybe they are NLA now? The cluster is very easy to remove. Just remove the kick panel or knee panel....reach you hand behind the cluster and push it out. All the plugs can be removed with your hand. You just need a 10mm wrench to remove the oil pressure line. While you are in there...replace all your dash bulbs...chances are they are all silvered now and clean all the grounds..

panZZer · #33 07-09-2013, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkman

If it starts easy, buy it for a discount because of the not shutting off and hard shifting - after all, if it was simple the PO would have fixed it.

Get the title in hand then fix the vacuum leak(s) &/or replace the vacuum pump. More likely leaks. Either way, easy fix with a little understanding. All of the info is available here with some simple searches.

Let us know if you get it. Price??

An ip pump shut off valve is pretty simple to fix, If I was the seller I might knock off $30 and include a spare SOV.

davidlee · #34 07-09-2013, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by panZZer

An ip pump shut off valve is pretty simple to fix, If I was the seller I might knock off $30 and include a spare SOV.

The guy I bought it from got it from his wifes mother and father and didnt drive it much, and knew nothing about fixing its problems, had it stayed with him longer it might have went started going down hill faster, I feel that its in the right hands now and can be brought back to its former glory without a s#%t ton of work.

davidlee · #35 07-09-2013, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooljjay

Yeh, I can't even seem to find them anymore...maybe they are NLA now? The cluster is very easy to remove. Just remove the kick panel or knee panel....reach you hand behind the cluster and push it out. All the plugs can be removed with your hand. You just need a 10mm wrench to remove the oil pressure line. While you are in there...replace all your dash bulbs...chances are they are all silvered now and clean all the grounds..

Thanks, Ill get on that also, first the vac issue, its making quite undrivable at the moment, And Ill be home sooner than I thought around 5:30 PST, so you all will hear back from me with more pics from under the hood this eve.

AND,,,Thanks again. Really!

Junkman · #36 07-09-2013, 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by panZZer

An ip pump shut off valve is pretty simple to fix, If I was the seller I might knock off $30 and include a spare SOV.

That's nice. I'd tell you to fix it if it is so insignificant. There are other reasons for low vacuum which we all know about. Still, vac pump is $300 + labor. Vac pods are upwards of $50 each and we can discuss relative merits of $8 diaphragms.

My point is/was, don't diagnose and tell the PO how simple and cheap the problem is if he doesn't know. An engine swap may be insignificant if you have an engine, times and tools. It still brings the price down.

panZZer · #37 07-09-2013, 06:07 PM

Yea, and ide tell you to walk back to the vw deezel --or the bus stop if the wife is using it for work.
No one here on this forum would consider paying a shop to R n R a vaccum pump which can be had for way less that your "hard drivin bargan" attitude contrives. all the other usual center pod issues--thats your prob junkman-you know all the in's n outs of these cars obveiously, and im not goin for the routine

davidlee · #38 07-09-2013, 09:02 PM

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davidlee · #39 07-09-2013, 09:05 PM

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davidlee · #40 07-09-2013, 09:07 PM

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cooljjay · #41 07-09-2013, 09:31 PM

If you look at the yellow pod in the first photo, you will see the rubber y has become disconnected from it. This is what is causing the vacuum leak. May be other things too, but this is the first big one noticed. Here's a picture at this link of how its suppose to look.

Here's a picture of how its suppose to be connected.
http://ericandkat.com/mercedes/W123VacDoorLockDiag.JPG

I can't be positive but I think you are also missing a bushing in your linkage and the carter key that holds the linkage to the throttle pivot bushing.

davidlee · #42 07-09-2013, 10:45 PM

I took a look at that link and my vac lines seen to be all hooked up correctly. There is this little plastic thing on top of my rocker cover that looks to be damaged not sure what that might cause

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davidlee · #43 07-09-2013, 10:49 PM

I also took a vac machine to the black vac line that runs down from the rocker cover to what I think would be the trams and it holds vacuum just fine

kerry · #44 07-09-2013, 11:00 PM

I don't see the brown line going to the shut off valve on the back of the IP between the IP and the oil filter housing in any of your pictures. Does anyone else see the shut off line?

cooljjay · #45 07-09-2013, 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidlee

I took a look at that link and my vac lines seen to be all hooked up correctly. There is this little plastic thing on top of my rocker cover that looks to be damaged not sure what that might cause

Did you plug that rubber y connector back into the open port of the yellow valve?

I don't think it is broken, but I can't be positive. Here are some pictures to compare the two pieces too

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry

I don't see the brown line going to the shut off valve on the back of the IP between the IP and the oil filter housing in any of your pictures. Does anyone else see the shut off line?

He has a type m pump, the shut off is where the alda or ada is on us spec cars.