rear main replacement - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

benzdude42 · #16 07-28-2013, 12:09 AM

found out the anaerobic came in a bigger tube than i thought so i bought them. total cost, including engine stand and leveler, is $450. that includes full gasket kit, water pump, and some little things i need to complete the car $144. oil's cost $70, sealers cost $60 engine stand and leveler cost $128, the rest was random stuff i needed to clean up the mess.

benzdude42 · #17 08-04-2013, 03:52 PM

engine's out finally out of the car and on the stand. i was wondering if the crank shaft bolt is a reverse thread before i go and really push on it.

ROLLGUY · #18 08-04-2013, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benzdude42

engine's out finally out of the car and on the stand. i was wondering if the crank shaft bolt is a reverse thread before i go and really push on it.

The front crankshaft bolt is normal, NOT reverse thread.

benzdude42 · #19 08-05-2013, 11:38 PM

finally got the caps off only to find that the main bearings are toast. there is are odd scraps, big enough to put your finger nail in and fairly deep in four of the top 6 bearings. the crank is scar free with some discoloration where the scratches go down the main bearings, hopefully i'll be able to slide new bearings in and be ok. i'll up load picture when i have wifi later in the week.

benzdude42 · #20 08-08-2013, 01:58 AM

pictures in http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/342127-crank-shaft-bolt.html

Zeppo2K2 · #21 08-12-2013, 02:39 AM

I'd like advice from you folks who have successfully installed a M-B rear main rope seal.

My diesel does not leak, but I have a 230SL I purchased with engine out of the car (big mistake) and boxes of parts. The engine had been "rebuilt" according to the seller. It was a long block when I got it, so I hung all the accessories on it, and installed. It leaked about a 10 inch spot of oil out the rear main every time it was parked.

There were other issues, so I pulled the engine, with the major task to pull the crank and fix the rear main. A local mechanic, who has installed the seals before, helped me along in his shop, in off hours, and we found the rope seal was cut too short. We cut the new seal correctly, rolled in the new seal, used assembly oil on the crank/seal but not of seal ends, and I believe he used the correct Permatex sealer.

Now the engine will drip occasionally. It is worse if driven up a hill for some distance, as you would expect. Normally, it'll leak one or two drops after a drive.

My question is, any chance this will this stop? I have about 3,000 miles on the engine now. From reading this thread, it seems the leak will not stop. The normal repair will give no oil leaks right away.

What do you folks guess we did wrong? We were very, very careful and it is frustrating that we did not get the leak completely fixed.

It seems so straight forward when I read the threads, but we did something wrong. I sure hate the thought of pulling that engine again, but the idea of just lifting the crank a bit to get the block half of the seal done seems to be a great shortcut.

ROLLGUY · #22 08-12-2013, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zeppo2K2

It seems so straight forward when I read the threads, but we did something wrong. I sure hate the thought of pulling that engine again, but the idea of just lifting the crank a bit to get the block half of the seal done seems to be a great shortcut.

Not that you want to pull the engine again and do the seal over, but yes it is not necessary to totally remove the crank on any MB engine to replace the rope seal. If the rope seal is installed properly, it should not leak at all. If they leaked at all when new, they would have had to have been fixed under warranty. I am sure there are specific steps to take to install a rope seal properly and have no leaks. It is possible that there was not enough seal standing proud of the block and pan, or not enough sealer on the ends, I don't know. If one could go back in time and stand beside a factory MB engine builder, one could know for sure the proper technique for installing a lasting leak proof seal.

Zeppo2K2 · #23 08-12-2013, 01:22 PM

Thanks for the input rollguy. I'll just keep using the engine and hope that someday whatever is leaking will plug up.

Anybody have look with oil additives that are to stop oil leaks? Specifically on a rope seal?

ROLLGUY · #24 08-12-2013, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zeppo2K2

Anybody have look with oil additives that are to stop oil leaks? Specifically on a rope seal?

I have used Lucas Oil Stabilizer, and it seems beneficial. I can't comment on others, as I have no experience with anything else.....Rich

benzdude42 · #25 08-18-2013, 04:12 AM

well my rope seal seated nicely but the half under the crank is about .80mm on one side and like -0.30 on the other, after having the crankshaft installed and then removed to double check. i guess i'll have to make other half a little longer. do i add anything to the tips of the seals?

benzdude42 · #26 08-18-2013, 04:15 AM

btw, my friend and i ended up losing our hold on the crank during the seal install and it ended up seating the darn thing in about 2 seconds.

Stretch · #27 08-18-2013, 05:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benzdude42

btw, my friend and i ended up losing our hold on the crank during the seal install and it ended up seating the darn thing in about 2 seconds.

So much for gently rolling the seal in place then!

ROLLGUY · #28 08-18-2013, 10:41 AM

I think the next time I do this operation (or suggest anyone else to), I will do it with the engine upright on the stand. That way, the weight of the crank is keeping the space open for removal and replacement of the seal half in the block. I am sure the crank will not "fall out", as the piston oilers will not allow it. And yes, some sealant needs to be on the ends of the seal halves.

benzdude42 · #29 08-23-2013, 03:59 AM

Well it was all quickly put back together 3 days ago, front main drips a little now and the lower oil pan needs another seal( guess rtv was not a smart idea for it). But I beleave the rear main is leak free. Not 100% because the drive from back and forth from work, one mile, cause 2 to 3 drops to fall from the back. But long drives leave the bell housing dry. Power steering is leaking also. Long store short. Can't be worse than it was before and I know what not to do next time.