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I always use my jack points. That's what they are there for. I think it is a very bad idea to "modify" your car so they are non operational. Whilst you as driver and owner may know about your modification it only takes one chap in the tyre shop or one breakdown assistance bloke or someone trying to steal your wheels to make a mess of your car. So I say use 'em - and if you loose 'em - fix 'em |
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I did have a rear jack-point rip out on a very rusty Fintail one time.
So far, despite varying amounts of rust on my W123s, all the jack-points have been solid enough to use - even on the left front of my Euro TD, where I had to fabricate a large patch panel for the surrounding rocker. Of course, I'd never work under there without a jack-stand. With the worst one on my TD, the inner box-section reinforcment for the jack-tube is still very solid. Happy Motoring, Mark |
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The other one actually needs some help in that area too - so that's something I'll be doing on my Sunday afternoon... |
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I have this idea for a mechanically attached patch that would be screwed or riveted in place and have an indent that picks up the load from the tube. I have this idea that I might have seen something like that, but maybe not? PS: Seems this not a new idea :o So far no sign of any commercial jack point patch panels. |
Graham: Jack points do not rely on the rocker panel just as you observe. I took my rocker panels completely off once and the car jacked up just fine on the tubes. Jack stands are always a must, whether the jack tubes are good or not as the car can go forward off the jack in some cases.
I would like to see a small square patch with the proper round opening and the indent; say a weld in piece. Keep working on it! |
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Finally, I covered the whole repair with spray undercoat. Except for the lack of indenting around the jack-hole, the repair isn't too noticeable. Since then, I've jacked it numerous times to make repairs to the brakes and shifter without any problems. Happy Motoring, Mark |
Yes, I always use mine when using the factory jack. I cover the jack holes with the 201 jack holes. The W123 never came with them but use these same jack holes fine (the jacks are pretty much the same size).
For lifting the car using a floor jack, I use a large 2 x 4 block of wood between the jack cup and vehicle chassis, about the same location as the jack points. The differential itself or the frame behind the oil pan works too with the block of wood on a floor jack. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7129/7...af6544ba_z.jpg |
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http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...-plug_3244.jpg http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/258179-w123-w124-jack-hole-plugs.html |
Early W201's and W124's use the same plugs.
The W201's came out earlier than the W124, hence my reference to the W201. |
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I have never used the factory jack for any of my W123's. I always use a floor jack and I don't have a good spare for either so if I have a flat the car is getting towed. |
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Jeremy |
On my W123s, I often use the factory jack, as I find it's usually easier and more effective to lift the car and set it on jack-stands than the small trolley jack I have.
I use a spare Mercedes jack, that I keep with some of my tools. A large trolley-jack might work better (in fact, I have one at my parent's home in Virginia Baech) but it can be a real hassle wrestling with something that big and heavy, especially in confined spaces. Happy Motoring, Mark |
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http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-parts-reference-library/182646-1269971886-rubber-bumper-plug-jack-point-holes-w123-w124-w201.html |
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