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  #1  
Old 08-01-2013, 11:45 AM
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Help with 81 240d

I'm a new owner of a 81 240d with 500k miles
I have 0 bar oil pressure at idle
No blinkers and no interment panel lights
I'm most concerned about the oil pressure. Help!

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  #2  
Old 08-01-2013, 11:59 AM
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Also have a bad oil leak at cooler. Need to know what seal size is?
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  #3  
Old 08-01-2013, 12:58 PM
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Check your fuses for the light problem. fuse #12 is for the stop lamp, turn sig lamp, instrument cluster, cruise control. the fuse may look good, but the aluminum gets corroded and won`t make a good electrical contact. replace it with a new one, and ther is some that are copper.

Do you have pressure when the eng speed is increased? each bar on the gauge is 15lbs.
The idle speed should be around 700rpm, maybe too low and with a worn engine or oil pump, it just doesn`t keep the pressure up. even if you have one bar on the gauge you are good. you must have some pressure at idle or there will be bad noises from under the hood. I think there is a pressure relieve valve in the oil filter housing, and it could be stuck open.

someone with more knowledge will chime in.

The leak at the Oil Cooler is most likely a hose. does it leak at the crimp? you might have to clean the area off with a pressure washer and check it. If the hose is leaking, replace it soon, if it blows, the oil will pump out is short order.
There is no replacement seal where the metal end screws onto the Cooler.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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Old 08-01-2013, 01:17 PM
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There should be an Emission Sticker somewhere under the Hood that has the Idle Speed and other stuff like Valve Adjustment Specs and IP timing.

I actually don't believe theses gauges are very accurate especially as they age. When you have a situation like you have it is good to hook up a Test Gauge to see what your Oil Pressure really is.

You need to fix the Oil Cooler Leak as that is going to effect your idle Oil Pressure. Despite what the Book has concerning the Oil Thermostat controlling the Oil Flow I doubt if it seals of that flow completely. Meaning that at idle I believe you can have Oil seeping around the Oil Filter Thermostat and some Oil circulating into the Oil Cooler.
That means an exterior leak in the Oil Cooler system is going to bleed off some pressure.
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Old 08-01-2013, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
There should be an Emission Sticker somewhere under the Hood that has the Idle Speed and other stuff like Valve Adjustment Specs and IP timing.

I actually don't believe theses gauges are very accurate especially as they age. When you have a situation like you have it is good to hook up a Test Gauge to see what your Oil Pressure really is.

You need to fix the Oil Cooler Leak as that is going to effect your idle Oil Pressure. Despite what the Book has concerning the Oil Thermostat controlling the Oil Flow I doubt if it seals of that flow completely. Meaning that at idle I believe you can have Oil seeping around the Oil Filter Thermostat and some Oil circulating into the Oil Cooler.
That means an exterior leak in the Oil Cooler system is going to bleed off some pressure.

The pressure jumps up to 3 at full throttle and runs around 2 and Half
At idle I here what sounds to be a valve rattle maybe I just need to adjust those ?
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Old 08-01-2013, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Billydean View Post
The pressure jumps up to 3 at full throttle and runs around 2 and Half
At idle I here what sounds to be a valve rattle maybe I just need to adjust those ?
The Timing Chain Tensioner on the non-turbo Engines is a lot more depend on the Oil Pressure for the Timing Chain Tensioner to function Properly.

Also I think I have read that the no-turbo Oil Pumps can have issues with the Relief Valve and Relief valve Spring.

If the little O-rings at the bottom of the Oil Filter Cap Tube are not sealing properly Oil gets dumped back into the Oil Pan and you lose pressure.
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Old 08-01-2013, 03:45 PM
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Finding the oil cooler lines is like finding a unicorn the local dealer said there not available. Any idea where I can find one? It leaking pretty good like a quart every 100miles. Can it be repaired?
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Old 08-01-2013, 04:37 PM
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I never buy hoses at a dealer - they get 7 prices for them. Find your local industrial hose shop (every town of any size has at least one) and take the bad hose in to them. These are the folks who make up lines and hoses for bull dozers and the like and many of these are Metric. Be sure to tell them that it's for use with engine oil and at 45 PSI or so. They'll make you up a new one, usually while you wait. The price depends on the price of the fittings - some are pretty cheap and some are big bucks.

Dan
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Old 08-01-2013, 05:57 PM
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Thank y'all for your help I have a few more questions. This is my first Benz by the way
As for the panel lights and blinkers. My fan and break lights work wouldn't this mean the fuse corroded wouldn't be the problem?
And my car has 507.000miles on it. Is this normal none of y'all's have this many miles. I heard stories of 1million plus on this cars
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  #10  
Old 08-01-2013, 06:41 PM
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The no dash lights are because of a bad rheostat behind the instrument cluster..



No blinkers or flashers is usually caused by a dirty switch...it may be the relay but usually its the contacts in the switch being filthy.

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  #11  
Old 08-01-2013, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billydean View Post
Finding the oil cooler lines is like finding a unicorn the local dealer said there not available. Any idea where I can find one? It leaking pretty good like a quart every 100miles. Can it be repaired?
There is several ways of not using the original Hoses. I believe the are all in the DIY section.
I only replaced the Hose part on mine and use double Hose Clamps. I have been driving 4 Years like that and I have to admit one Hose while not dripping is wet.
I have not gotten around to it but replacing the Hose section is easy for Me now. Just remove the Clamps; clean the nipples and replace the Hose.
DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

The biggest issue with the old stock Hoses is once they start leaking under the crimped Collar it means the Hose has deteriorated under there. A few Members have lost an Engine due to the Hose developing a massive leak while driving.

At your Engine Milage the Bearings could also be worn out. Most are near the end of there life before they reach Your Mileage. Someone must have babied the Car.
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  #12  
Old 08-01-2013, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Stokes View Post
I never buy hoses at a dealer - they get 7 prices for them. Find your local industrial hose shop (every town of any size has at least one) and take the bad hose in to them. These are the folks who make up lines and hoses for bull dozers and the like and many of these are Metric. Be sure to tell them that it's for use with engine oil and at 45 PSI or so. They'll make you up a new one, usually while you wait. The price depends on the price of the fittings - some are pretty cheap and some are big bucks.

Dan
I am not sure on the OPs Engine but on My Turbo Diesel when I installed a test Gauge I got a Max Oil Pressure of 97 psi. And, the Manual has that it can be as high as 110 psi.
The Oil Pressure Gauge in the Car only goes up to 3 bar about 43.5 psi but the real Oil pressure is higher if your system is working right.

But, it may not matter as Low Pressure Hydraulic Line has a working pressure of at least 300 psi.
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Old 08-02-2013, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
I am not sure on the OPs Engine but on My Turbo Diesel when I installed a test Gauge I got a Max Oil Pressure of 97 psi. And, the Manual has that it can be as high as 110 psi.
The Oil Pressure Gauge in the Car only goes up to 3 bar about 43.5 psi but the real Oil pressure is higher if your system is working right.

But, it may not matter as Low Pressure Hydraulic Line has a working pressure of at least 300 psi.
'Zakly! I just referenced his 3 bar pressure as that's what he said he was running. I wanted to steer him away from buying high pressure line and fittings at several times the price.

Dan

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